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Thread: Plywood saw blade

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Mickleton, NJ
    Posts
    31

    Plywood saw blade

    Hi everyone,

    I have been using the Forrest Woodworker II blades on my table saw and have had some tearout issues. After experimenting I discovered that it was that my feed rate was "to fast." After slowing down the tear out dramatically decreased. Unfortunately, the feed rate is sooooooo slow that I think I will have grandkids before I finish building this toy trainbox for my son (He is 7 months old).

    Does anyone have recommendations for a good ... no make that excellent plywood cutting blade. Having the Forrest Woodworker II, I naturally, looked at the Forrest products the Duraline HI-A/T in particular, but am open to all blades.

    Thanks
    Joe

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Modesto, CA
    Posts
    2,364
    I also had trouble with the WWII (on my old contractor saw) and I found that I got better cuts with a dedicated rip or crosscut blade.

    This blade was suggested to me and I absolutely love it. I love it so much that I ordered a second one after using it.

    http://www.hechinger.com/web/catalog...89A8C0A078EC0C

    I got mine from Amazon but Amazon is only listing this blade now, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...328333-8534454, which, if I understand correctly, is the old version of the LU80R010 above.

    This blade is absolutely terriffic (for me anyway) for crosscutting plywood. I don't mind changing blades at all when I need to make crosscuts on plywood because of the great finish that I get. This is all assuming a ZCI is used as well, of course.

    Just my opinion and hope this helps.
    Mark Rios

    Anything worth taking seriously is worth making fun of.

    "All roads lead to a terrestrial planet finder telescope"

    We arrive at this moment...by the unswerving punctuality...of chance.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Glenmoore, PA
    Posts
    2,194
    I recently picked up this one and absolutely love it. I also use a WWII as my primary blade but for ply this one is fantastic. Zero tearout for me.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...849074-6058324

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Modesto, CA
    Posts
    2,364
    Thanks for that link Larry. I could only find the other one.
    Mark Rios

    Anything worth taking seriously is worth making fun of.

    "All roads lead to a terrestrial planet finder telescope"

    We arrive at this moment...by the unswerving punctuality...of chance.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Union City, CA
    Posts
    468
    With the risk of violating the rules here, I'm posting this link:

    Leitz Blade Ad

    For sheetgoods, get either:

    - LEITZ PRO SERIES OPTICUT 10" z80 neg. hook ATB 5/8" $29
    - 35-622 10" z80 ATB 5/8" bore $21

    For melamine/laminate coated particle board/MDF:

    - 35-633 10" z80 TC 5/8" bore *0 degree hook*$28

    It's too bad he's out of 24T FG Rip (full-kerf) and 40T ATB Pro-Series Combo.
    Last edited by Hoa Dinh; 10-31-2006 at 12:43 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    Hi Joe - I've used several 80T blades....DeWalt DW7647, DW3218TK, Leitz 80T Pro, Freud LU74R010, and Freud F810. Of those, I think the F810 (now the LU80R010) will make the biggest improvement over the cut of the WWII in ply, a Hi-ATB blade is an excellent choice. I imagine the Forrest is equally impressive. You could also consider the LU79R010 (TK).

    http://www.epinions.com/Freud_F810_1...ade_Shop_Tools
    Last edited by scott spencer; 10-31-2006 at 5:43 AM.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sudbury, MA
    Posts
    146
    Joe,

    I found that using dedicated blades was one of the best performance ugrades I could have made when using my table saw. As far as what type to purchase you'll get so many opinions, as there are many good blades to be purchased; my preferance is Amana

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Lake Leelanau, MI
    Posts
    2,630
    Hoa,

    No problem with the link to Leitz Blades. As per the TOS, "links for the sole purpose of marketing," would not be allowed. Your link falls within the TOS.

    John
    John Bailey
    Sawmill Creek is a member supported forum. Click here to donate.


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Davenport, IA
    Posts
    78
    Quote Originally Posted by scott spencer
    a Hi-ATB blade is an excellent choice. I imagine the Forrest is equally impressive. You could also consider the LU79R010 (TK).
    What does Hi-ATB mean? Is that an ATB blade with a high tooth count?

    Tim

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Leesville, TX (San Antonio/Austin)
    Posts
    1,203
    Contrary to common experience, I spent a good chunk of money on an Amana plywood blade ($80?)...and used it only a couple times before putting my 30T WWII back on and leaving it because I didn't see a significant difference in cut quality.

    I think the 40T WWII might be better for plywood and crosscuts, but the 30T has been an excellent one-size-fits-all blade for me for several years (7 or 8?)

    KC

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Burke
    What does Hi-ATB mean? Is that an ATB blade with a high tooth count?

    Tim

    Tim

    HiATB is a version of the ATB grind with very steep bevel angles, generally higher than 30°.
    Charles M
    Freud America, Inc.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,933
    Like KC, I've had excellent results with my WW-II blades on sheet goods...no tearout with a ZCI as long as the blade is sharp. I have a Freud ply blade (I forget the configuration) and it works well, but I don't see any difference between it and my normal blade.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chadds Ford, PA
    Posts
    583
    hi Joe, I'm a fan of the German made Guhdo blades. They have a 90T 303mm HiAt blade that I've used on sheet goods without scoring and it worked great. You should be able to get it with the 5/8" bore as it normally is sold in 30mm bore. Also I have heard people get excellent results with an FS Tool blade.
    take care,
    John

  14. #14
    As Mark said, 80T Hi-ATB is the way to go for melamine and veneer faced ply. Here is a link showing the tooth geometry.

    http://tenryu.com/ToothGeometry.pdf

    I have tried a good combo blade and unless I score the material, can't get satisfactory results.

  15. #15
    I've been using a Freud Avante 80T blade, and it makes nice smooth cuts in plywood.

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