Micro Jig Splitter

[Matt Guyrd]

In using SMC's Google search (a cool feature, by the way), I came across several past (last couple of years) posts regarding the Micro Jig's Splitter.

I have a Jet contractor saw. I used the stock blade guard/splitter for the first few months, but once I made a cross-cut sled, the guard/splitter found itself doing more time on the shelf than on the saw.

I've seen some of the cool riving knifes on some of the higher-end cab saws. Unfortunately, a riving knife for my saw is not an option (that I am aware of).

So, I saw the MJ splitter (and Grr-ripper too) and thought this was an alternative that made sense to me.

A lot of folks indicated they liked them in past posts...anyone still using it? Or has anyone used it in the past but have since removed it? If so, why?

Thanks!
Matt

[John Huber]

I do a lot of ripping of narrow stock that I can't feed past the blade guard and splitter that came with the saw. For that application, the Micro-Jig splitter and GRR-Ripper are ideal for a safe, accurate, burn-free outcome.

One of the great features of the MJ splitter is that by reversing its insertion and/or using the second splitter provided, you can fine-tune its location on your saw to eliminate burning on either side, even on very reactive stock.

Bottom line, for the right applications I use them all the time.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

I'm still using it, still like it.

The only limitation I've found is that if there's stress in the wood, the kerf can clamp down on the splitter hard enough to stop the cut. So far, so good - this means that the spiltter is doing its job, and if it wasn't there, a kickback might have resulted. BUT, if the operator continues to force the cut through, it's possible to pry the splitter out of the throat plate.

The simple solution, of course, is don't force it. I believe MicroJig has also come out with a heavier duty metal version of the MJ Splitter.

I would also add that I use an overarm blade guard in conjuction with the MJ Splitter. I would not be happy using the splitter alone, without a guard.

[Terry Hatfield]

Matt,

I still have it and love it!!!!!

Terry

[Aaron Beaver]

I'm still using it, still like it.

The only limitation I've found is that if there's stress in the wood, the kerf can clamp down on the splitter hard enough to stop the cut. So far, so good - this means that the spiltter is doing its job, and if it wasn't there, a kickback might have resulted. BUT, if the operator continues to force the cut through, it's possible to pry the splitter out of the throat plate.

The simple solution, of course, is don't force it. I believe MicroJig has also come out with a heavier duty metal version of the MJ Splitter.

I would also add that I use an overarm blade guard in conjuction with the MJ Splitter. I would not be happy using the splitter alone, without a guard.

I have it, use it, and like it, and would agree with Kent on wood clamping down on the splitter, have had it happen a few times.

[Walt Caza]

Hi Matt,
I am fortunate to now have a riving knife. (not a 10 cent solution !)
In previous 23 yrs with contractor saw, I had 3 total kickbacks.
Sometimes I sawed 10 hrs a day. (one hip bruise, once...)
Scary moments when you are no longer in control!

Anyhow, I know an old hand who keeps a thin wedge of wood handy,
maybe an 1/8 inch mid taper. As the cut passes the back of the blade,
he tucks the thin wedge into the kerf to keep it open. The spreader shim
rides the kerf until the cut is finished. (long cuts in hardwood)

(Braces himself for safety protests against reaching behind sawblade)
That's my 2 cents,
Walt

ps you are only as safe as your last cut

[glenn bradley]

I have it and love it. Another agreement here with Kent; if the wood grabs the splitter, it is doing it's job; shut down and correct the issue, don't force it. Check around for prices; I've seen them go from $16 - $26, same product. Available in regular of thin kerf; the website gives you exact blade-to-splitter recommendations.

There is supposed to be a metallic version released but the price hasn't been mentioned. There is a design modification on the posts to resist pull out by grabbing material. Some products are just so simple and reasonably priced that we are shocked when they do what they claim they will, eh?

P.s. Install is a snap, follow the directions precisely.

[RichMagnone]

Matt, I have one set still sitting in the bag unused - I have a removable Bies splitter that I love and just got excited at a woodworking show and made an impulse buy. I'll drop it in the mail for you if you want it.

[Ed Gibbons]

Mine kept popping out and eventually broke...worked great though...

It would be better if it were not plastic...

[Don Dean]

I am with the majority - love it, use it.

[Matt Guyrd]

Looks like the Splitter is still well-like and used. I'll be looking into getting one soon. Fellow creeker, Bill Esposito has a review of the original MJ Splitter and the steel Pro Splitter on his website, nhwoodworker.com. I cannot find additional info on the Pro series though...not even on MJ's website.

The local Woodcraft store has them for $14.99. Seems cheap enough for the added safety.

Thanks for everyone's input about their experiences! And particularly to Rich for the generous offer! Rich, I sent you a PM.

Matt

[Terry Flowers]

I bought one at a wood show last year and still have not installed it. the concept seems good, but I am wondering how it is superior to designs I have seen for zero clearance inserts with a hardwood splitter glued into saw kerf. That should perform the same function for free, if you make your own inserts.

I saw the metal encased in plastic version at the wood show this month in CA. Seems like they were around $26. It would be stronger, but it may still have the problem of pulling out that others have mentioned.

Terry

[Kent Fitzgerald]

I bought one at a wood show last year and still have not installed it. the concept seems good, but I am wondering how it is superior to designs I have seen for zero clearance inserts with a hardwood splitter glued into saw kerf. That should perform the same function for free, if you make your own inserts.

The advantages of the MJ Splitter are quick, precise installation and adjustability. You can fine-tune the offset of the MJ Splitter by using either of the two included inserts in different positions (four settings in all).

Just install it, already!

[Steve Clardy]

Hi Matt,
I am fortunate to now have a riving knife. (not a 10 cent solution !)
In previous 23 yrs with contractor saw, I had 3 total kickbacks.
Sometimes I sawed 10 hrs a day. (one hip bruise, once...)
Scary moments when you are no longer in control!

Anyhow, I know an old hand who keeps a thin wedge of wood handy,
maybe an 1/8 inch mid taper. As the cut passes the back of the blade,
he tucks the thin wedge into the kerf to keep it open. The spreader shim
rides the kerf until the cut is finished. (long cuts in hardwood)

(Braces himself for safety protests against reaching behind sawblade)
That's my 2 cents,
Walt

ps you are only as safe as your last cut

I do the same, except I use a screwdriver.
Have a long, wood version design dangling in my head.

[Chuck Nickerson]

do not expect it to replace all the functionality of a $100 splitter! After all, it only costs $20. All the complaints I've seen over the years about the MJ Splitter flowed from people who wanted the $20 device to completely replace a $100 device.