Show Me Your Cross-Cut Sleds

[Blaine Harrison]

I'm going to build a cross-cut sled starting in a couple of days. The nicest sled I've seen so far is one made by Mark Marzluf. It's got t-track on the back fence and in the base of the sled that's used for hold-downs. It also has a replaceable insert for use with different sawblades (tilted, dado, cross-cut, etc.). That's my standard at this point, so I think I know what I want, but am willing to look at features from others.

Pics and suggestions welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Blaine

[Bruce Page]

You might get some ideas here, mine's the 9th one down.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=5915

[Aaron Beaver]

You might get some ideas here, mine's the 9th one down.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=5915

Bruce what size is yours?

[Bruce Page]

Bruce what size is yours?

I can't say of the top of my head, I made it to fit under the cross-cut table.
I'll check it when I get home tonight.

[Matt Guyrd]

My crosscut sled is about as rudimentary as they come, but it is simple, quick to make, and so far, cuts dead-on square. I hope to make a better (prettier?), more permanent sled in the future.

I had an immediate need and went the quickest route possible...not even sure I used the best materials. The runners are cherry, base if MDF, and the front and rear fences are made out of a couple of scrap 2x6s that I milled before shaping.

I don't have any clampless photos, but you get the idea fromthese pics.

Image_ 775.jpg

Image_ 776.jpg

Image_ 777.jpg

Matt

[Luciano Burtini]

OKAY, it actually doesn't exist yet. Two Birds, One Stone - I needed to learn Sketchup and I needed a new cutoff sled. The old one was simply a piece of plywood and a handy chunk of Maple. Worked fine, but now is time to build a more permanent sled. The T-track in the base will not be used - it was merely used to explore an idea in drawing.

I am also thinking of incorprating a moveable angle fence. Perhaps this should be a second sled and keep one dedicated to 90 degrees for panel cutting?

[Bruce Page]

Bruce what size is yours?

Aaron, it's 25" between the uprights X 40"
Overall it's 29" X 40"

[Guy Germaine]

Mine's pretty simple. (Like me ) It's 24" X 48".

[Keith Outten]

OKAY, it actually doesn't exist yet. Two Birds, One Stone - I needed to learn Sketchup and I needed a new cutoff sled. The old one was simply a piece of plywood and a handy chunk of Maple. Worked fine, but now is time to build a more permanent sled. The T-track in the base will not be used - it was merely used to explore an idea in drawing.

I am also thinking of incorprating a moveable angle fence. Perhaps this should be a second sled and keep one dedicated to 90 degrees for panel cutting?

Luciano.

Your T-Track idea has merit. It could be used to set an angled fence or to clamp odd shaped pieces.

.

[Al Willits]

Just curious, any best way to square the back rail to the saw?
I'm about to try and build one of these soon, and am thinking one way would be to attach the runners square to the bed of the sled, then mount the sled on the saw and make a cut that doesn't quite go end to end, then attach the fence to the bed squaring it to the saw cut...??

Planning on using a piece of 2x4' 3/4" birch plywood I already have for the bed, seems a bit smaller than what some are, but I can always make a bigger one.

Al

[Tom Hamilton]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...4&d=1124908843

Hopefully this is a pic of the sled I use. The only difference is a hole in the lexan guard to accept the shop vac hose. It is not "Pentz Quality" dust control but does gather up much of what would escape.

Since this pic was taken I added hinged wings to each side. These fold down and rest on the work during the cut further containing dust.

All the best, Tom

[Guy Germaine]

When I made mine, I used UMHW for the runners. I placed them into the slots and put some double stick tape on the top of them. I then slid my rip fence (which was dead-on square with the miter slots) over 24" since my sled is 48" wide. I then slid my plywood up against the rip fence where I wanted it and pressed it down on to the double stick tape. Then, I just turned it over and screwed the runners in to place. Once that was done, I turned it back over and placed the sled so the blade would come through about half way front to back. Then, I turned the saw on, and raised the blade until it cut through the plywood. Now that you can see the blade, you can use a framing square to install the rear fence. I installed mine with a 1/4" lag bolt in one end in an oversized hole in the fence. Then screwed the other end in place with a deck screw. That gives you a little "adjusting" room to get the fence perfectly square. After using the "five cut" method of getting the fence square, I added a couple more deck screws to keep it from moving.

[Al Willits]

Thanks Guy, I like the idea of a bit of adjustability.
Luciano's picture shows a piece of plexiglass(?) down the middle, like that idea too.

Al

[Bob Swenson]

Tom, That sure is a handy beer closet you have!

[Nissim Avrahami]

Mine is not fancy at all but once I finish the adjustment (shimming) that takes 5 minutes, I can open “production line” and make 5~6 of them in an hour (provided the sled board, runners and fences are already cut to dimensions).
Please have a look here
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=38482

niki