Greetings, Kudos and a Question.

[Conrad Aquino]

I'm new to "The Creek" and happy to have found it. I'm the owner of an older model (34-410) 10" Delta CS, bought new in 1985.

For the first time since I've owned it, I managed to tweak the tie rods and trunions way out of adjustment while tilting the blade/arbor... I inadvertently jammed the motor against the attachment bracket for a recently added (outfeed) extention table.

Heck, until reading about it here, I had no idea such a thing could be done.

Then by the miracle of "Googling", I found all of the answers to my questions here... so thanks to all for those threads on the topic of CS blade alignment that showed up in my search. My saw is now restored back to tip top shape.

Also Kudos to member Glenn Bradley. I responded to his post regarding cast iron table extentions for sale. Well, it was a real pleasure dealing with him... the extensions arrived safe and sound, and after a brief struggle, they are now bolted up nicely to my CS, and I'm looking forward to the weekend when I can take them for a test drive.

And now my question...

I'm 53 and have been dabbling in woodworking (in various forms) ever since I bought my first power tool at the tender age of 14.

However, I've never worked with any of the "oily" woods, like Teak or Rosewood, until now.

What kind of glue works best for edge gluing? One of the Polyurethanes? Epoxy?

I've been told that if I use acetone to first degrease the edges that I want to join, then any good woodworking glue will do... is that true?

Specifically, I'm planning to use Rosewood and edge glue boards to make a small cabinet with raised panels.

Thanks...

Regards,

Conrad

[Jim Becker]

Welcome to the 'Creek, Conrad.

As far as I know, cleaning the edges to be joined with acetone will deal with the excess oils. You should be able to use any woodworking glue, such as PVA, to make your joinery after that. (glue right after you clean and the acetone flashes off...be sure to have good ventilation) I don't prefer polyurethane glues unless it's an outdoor project...and then I wear gloves as I don't like black skin.

[glenn bradley]

Hi Conrad, Glad the ext. wings worked out. You gotta love that extra table surface and weight.

Cheers,

Glenn

P.s. I'm no help on the oily woods but Jim is a pretty smart guy, I'd go with his recommendations.

[Conrad Aquino]

Jim,

Thanks so much for the confirmation on using acetone to clean off the excess oil before gluing.

Another thought/question comes to mind... will the same oil in the wood that would interfere with glue adhesion also pose a problem with the application of a final top coat finish, such as spray on varnish or lacquer?

Should I also de-oil with acetone prior to putting on the finish?

Thanks,

Conrad

[Paul Held]

I typically will use epoxy for oily woods. I am sure that PVA glue will work most of the time, but I have never had a problem using epoxy. I have heard that PVA just won't work with some oily woods, but I really don't know which ones. Getting rid of the oil right before gluing is a must. Acetone or Naptha both work great. Once the solvent has dried do the glue up. If you wait unilt the next day, you will have to wipe the piece down again with solvent. Paul

[Bob Aquino]

Jim,

Thanks so much for the confirmation on using acetone to clean off the excess oil before gluing.

Another thought/question comes to mind... will the same oil in the wood that would interfere with glue adhesion also pose a problem with the application of a final top coat finish, such as spray on varnish or lacquer?

Should I also de-oil with acetone prior to putting on the finish?

Thanks,

Conrad

To answer that question, yes, you should wipe down all the surfaces before you start finishing. As for glue, I usually use a polyurethane since the reason I am using something like teak is for a boat part which will be exposed to the weather.