Turning tape, what's your experience?

[Ben Rafael]

I've been using screws on my faceplate with the only consequence that some wood is being wasted, but the work doesn't move or fly off of the faceplate.
Is turning tape safe?

[Mark Pruitt]

Ben, I've not used double sided tape but have used CA glue and have been happy with it. I use the "Medium" thickness to allow a couple more seconds of open time. I also wet a paper towel with acetone and have it sitting close by in case the CA goes where it's not supposed to go. Had one interesting incident where I accidentally glued my hand to a bowl. It was good to have that acetone sitting right there.

[Ben Rafael]

I just make sure not to go to the bathroom immediately after using CA, that could be embarassing.
I've used CA too without problems, but tape still seems easier.

[Jim Becker]

I tried tape once. CA and a waste block is a much better solution... ...and you're less likely to receive a "kiss" from your work of art while turning it...

[Frank Fusco]

A tip I must credit to a member of my woodturning club named Ray.
Using an aluminum faceplate, simply put hot glue, as from an ordinary glue gun on the plate and press your work against it. Press and hold for a minute to cool and set. This stuff holds so hard you can't get it off with an act of Congress. When finished turning, use a propane torch to warm the plate and the wood comes right off. Most of the glue will stick to the plate but what little might stay on the wood can be scraped off with a putty knife and doesn't damage the wood. Makes screws obsolete. I got my plate at (where else ) Grizzly.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h6437

[Ernie Nyvall]

Tape works okay for a friction setup with the tail stock engaged for forming the tenon, but without the tail stock... no way I'd try that.

[Jim Becker]

When finished turning, use a propane torch to warm the plate and the wood comes right off.

Careful...that's a good way to deform/warp your faceplate. What I'd suggest is to screw a waste block to the faceplate and THEN use the hot glue (or CA or even PVA if you're willing to wait overnight to turn it) to mate your blank with the waste block.

[Bill Simpson]

I prefer the waste block (sacrifice block) I have a friend who exclusively uses hot glue. I have used Doublesided tape to hold a piece to finish off the bottom w/o problem, but it was a minor cut and sand, etc.

[Joash Boyton]

Yes, I used to (before I got a vicmarc 120 chuck) screw a waste block of pine onto a face-plate, and then hot-melt glued the blank onto that, worked fine, the only thing was that you ended up with a "bigger" base...make sure you use special hot-melt glue that is designed for ww'ing. I use strong glue, and turned a 20" diameter bowl glued on with hot melt once

Let us know how it goes,

Joash

[John Hart]

I used tape for my pocket watches because you spend a lot of time taking them off and turning them around and fussing quite a bit. Worked great for me.

[Frank Fusco]

Careful...that's a good way to deform/warp your faceplate. What I'd suggest is to screw a waste block to the faceplate and THEN use the hot glue (or CA or even PVA if you're willing to wait overnight to turn it) to mate your blank with the waste block.

All I can say, is.....it works. My friend, Ray, does large platters and uses his technique frequently. I don't believe he discards flaceplates for each platter.

[Ron Sardo]

I've used tape and I never really felt comfortable with it. But it worked.

I've never had success with hot glue, don't know why. I've seen others use it with no problems. Must be me.

If the blank doesn't have enough room on the bottom. I use Med CA and a waste block. Otherwise, I just turn a tenon on the bottom and not worry about the lost wood.

With tape or CA glue, the trick is to have two perfectly flat surfaces that mate.

[Frank Fusco]

I've used tape and I never really felt comfortable with it. But it worked.

I've never had success with hot glue, don't know why. I've seen others use it with no problems. Must be me.

If the blank doesn't have enough room on the bottom. I use Med CA and a waste block. Otherwise, I just turn a tenon on the bottom and not worry about the lost wood.

With tape or CA glue, the trick is to have two perfectly flat surfaces that mate.

With an aluminum faceplate, you can heat the plate after your work is attached, then hold it firmly (with a hunk of wood to protect your hands) until it sets. That will give greater grip than just squirt and stick.