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Thread: how many CA coats on a pen?

  1. #1

    how many CA coats on a pen?

    I've started using the CA pen finishing method and I like the results. I have found that thin works best for me, and I'm wondering how many coats I should apply? I want a durable and glossy finish,and I've acheived glossy, but I don't want to find out in a month that 'X' number of coats wasn't enough.
    "Irresponsibility-
    No single raindrop believes it is to blame for the flood." - despair.com

  2. #2
    I usually use 3 coats of medium CA. If I use thin I usually put 5 coats.
    Mike Vickery

  3. #3
    Can you elaborate how it is applied? What do you do about the bushings? It seems like they would get stuck to the pen blank. Thanks. Lars

  4. #4
    I have an interesting situation wiht my thin CA because I cut the spout too big, which is actually perfect. I just tip it over quickly so it wets a dot on the paper towl, then I lightly run the paper towel back and forth across the blank. I use so little glue on each swipe, it doesn't stick the bushings on. I apply a few coats at a go, then let it dry for at least an hour, sand with my 2 highest MM's, and repeat.
    "Irresponsibility-
    No single raindrop believes it is to blame for the flood." - despair.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Oak Harbor, Whidbey Island, WA
    Posts
    2,550

    Terry Miller's Plexi Glass finish

    Plexi-glass Finish
    To start you need to make a thick solution. I did this by melting plexi-glass in acetone. I
    started with a new 1 gallon paint can from any box store or paint store. I used enough
    plexi-glass to cover the bottom of the can with about 1-2 inches. I then added enough
    acetone to cover the plexi-glass. For the next couple of days I would stir the solution
    periodically and add more acetone as necessary.
    After the initial solution is made you need to take some of the solution and thin it for the
    finish. I thin the solution to a consistency a little thinner than thick CA glue. This can be
    adjusted to individual preference. I tried the thick solution and it did not work for me the
    finish just clumped up because the quick drying time. I keep my thinned solution in a
    squeeze bottle that was purchased at a beauty supply shop. I have had it in the same
    bottle for about six months with no problems.
    To start I turn the pen just as I would with any other finish. I turn my pens, sand and
    finish with the lathe running at the same speed about 1800 rpm’s. I sand with 150, 220,
    400, and 600 and then stop with the first grit of MM. Prior to applying the finish ensure
    that you don’t have any sanding rings or defects.
    At this point I wipe the blank with DNA with the lathe running.
    To start with I use rubber gloves and apply the solution with a paper towel. I won’t get
    into specifics as to which paper towels because of debate over which is better. I fold the
    paper towel up to where it is about a ¼ of an inch wide.
    I start by soaking the paper towel with the solution. The first coat I start applying the
    solution at the nib end of the pen and work toward the finial end. After each coat I apply
    a small puddle of solution to the paper towel. Unlike the CA finish I use the same
    portion of the paper towel. The only time I switch to another section of towel is if I delay
    between coat and the solution on the towel dries. Each coat after is started at the opposite
    ends of the pen to ensure an even coat on the entire pen.
    I apply as much solution as I feel necessary to the blank. I typically apply between 5-10
    coats. This varies depending on the amount of solution applied to the paper towel per
    coat. This finish can be sensitive to the amount of pressure used to apply it. I have found
    that if too much pressure is applied during the process the finish will flake of resulting in
    you having to start over again with sanding. After the last coat is applied let the lathe
    continue running for about 30-60 seconds for the solution to cure.
    At this point start wet sanding. Depending on the smoothness you have after applying the
    solution it will determine which grit to start with. I usually start wet sanding with the
    first grit of MM and wet sand all the way through. The first grit I will spend about 30
    seconds the rest of the grit I sand for about 15 seconds each till the last 2 which I once
    again spend about 30 seconds each. Between every couple of grits I will wipe the blank
    down with a paper towel moistened with water.
    Once the sanding is completed and the finish is smooth I move to the final stage of
    finishing. I use a plastic polish that was purchased at Wal-Mart I believe that it is GS-27.
    I apply 2 coats to make sure that all scratches are removed then follow up with a coat
    Meguires car wax.
    Once all of the steps are completed I remove the blank from the bushing with a pair of
    pliers with a slight rocking motion. I then carefully trim the excess film left on the end
    with a straight edge razor blade. Then finish assembly of the pen as per the instructions
    I have found that some oily woods benefit from a sealer coat of CA prior to applying the
    Plexi finish.

    By Terry Miller

    My addition to this procedure I used a quart can & just made 1/2 the can first so it came out thick & then added the acetone to thin it out. I used 1/8" plexi-glass & cut it into 1/8" wide strips & broke it up into little pieces & put it into the can somewhere between 1/4 - 1/3 full of plexi- glass bits fill the can about 1/2 full of acetone & agitate from time time to dissolve the plexi-glass.

    Another thing I have tried because Terry didn't make it clear if the pen was spinning or not, I have started just rotating the pen on the lathe by hand & applying the finish & have had good results.
    Also I couldn't find the plastic polish Terry mentions but found that Brasso has mentioned on the back od the can that it can be used to polish watch crystals so I have been using it & it seems to work fine even on acrylic blanks.

    Update I am now using the one step plastic polish form Pennstate & the results are much better.
    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

    My web page has a pop up. It is a free site, just close the pop up on the right side of the screen

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    31
    Bart thanks for telling people about this I have all but given up telling people unless they ask. I anyone tries this finish and needs any help they can feel free to e-mail me or post something here and I will do what I can to help out.

  7. #7

    Repost from another thread

    After turning the pen to final dimensions, I sand from 100 grit through about 2400-3600 micromesh. I clean the blank with denatured alchohol and sand with the last couple of grits again if it looks fuzzy. I then apply a coat of thin CA using a piece of wax paper to coat the entire blank. I use wax paper because it doesn't act as a catalyst to the CA and end up sticking to the pen blank. I sand the blanks again starting at 1200 MM - 12000 MM. I apply a liberal coat of thick CA to the pen using wax paper and let it dry naturally. Using the catalyst seems to make the CA dry unevenly or leave dimples. I sand from 1200-12000MM again and apply a second coat if there seems to be imperfections. After sanding the second coat I apply another coat of thin CA to fill any small pores that may have developed in the thick finish and sand again. I then apply a friction polish or carnauba wax as extra layer of protection against "in store" handling.
    Raymond Overman
    Happiness is a warm chainsaw

    "Do not wait, the time will never be just right. Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command. Better tools will be found as you go along." Napolean Hill

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oak Lawn, IL
    Posts
    243

    CA Finish

    Hello,

    I have found a method that works very well for me:
    1. I sand to 1500 grit
    2. Then use a couple of drops of DNA on a rag, and clean the blank.
    3. Then I apply Tripoli to the blank as it is spinnin gon the lathe, and use a clean, old t-shirt to buff/clean it off.
    4. Repeat the procedure with the white diamond. At this stage, the blank already has a nice shine, and is smooth as can be.
    5. Now, take a paper towel, fold it about six times, and put 3 drops of BLO on the rag. I take one pass over the blank with the BLO, then while moving the paper towel/blo back and forth, I let 3 or 4 drops of CA drip onto the paper towel just as it meets the blank on the bottom front. I keep moving that back and forth for about 2-3 minutes, and the CA is hard as rock, and shines like a diamond. You have to keep moving the towel/CA/BLO back and forth with slight pressure until you smell a very foul odor. This indicates the CA has cured.
    6. Repeat the blo/ca process 2 or 3 more times.

    My pens are now very shiny, and very durable. It is by far the best finishing results I have found. I put the DNA and BLO in 16 oz squeeze bottles to make it easier to regulate the amount applied.

    Happy Turning,
    Dan Heine

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    22,605
    3 coats of medium or 5 or 6 of thin CA.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



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