What would you use on a crib?

[Jerry Strojny]

Questions like these always seem to be somewhat loaded, and of course boring to the readers. But I could really use some advice. I should state right off the bat, I really don't like to do the finishing on a project. I stink at it. Either my staining is blotchy or the finish is runny. I'm sure one problem is that I try something different practically every time. Anyway, I built a crib, (baby is now almost 3 months old, and I need to get this thing DONE) and have it stained. Minwax mahogany stain (brushed on pretty thick, and not wiped to get the color LOML wanted.) My original plan was to use the habor freight HPLV I recently bought. Now, I'm totally second guessing myself. I thought laquer would be a good choice. Is it? Is this a project I want for "test" it out on? Is there a more appropriate finish for a crib? or should I just try to find someone to do this for me.

[Jim Becker]

Use any film finish you are comfortable with...they are all "safe" when fully cured. Since spraying is available, my personal choice would be a water borne product as a top coat. (I generally use Target Coatings USL) But I'd do a barrier coat of de-waxed shellac to provide a good adhesion base over the oil-based stain you used. If you don't have proper spraying facilities, you don't want to be dealing with NC Lacquer at a time of year that you can't open all the doors and windows, etc.

[Jerry Strojny]

Thanks for the reply Jim,

the shellac coat, would that be brushed on? does it need to be thined like regular shellac? (can I thin with mineral spirits?) I have a quart of Zinsser sanding sealer. (dewaxed shellac I think)
Also, there are areas of the stain that "look" like they have a sheen. I assume this is because it was put on thick a not wiped. Should I do a light sanding before I use the shellac? to try to take out that sheen? Sorry for all the questions, I really appriciate the help.

[Howard Acheson]

Jerry, one reason you may have trouble with finishing is disregarding the finish manufacturer's instruction. The manufacturer wants you to be sucessful with their product and spend lots of time testing for the proper way to use their product. The issue is applying a stain and not wiping the excess. The excess should always be wiped off after letting it set 15-20 minutes. Stain is not paint. It will not dry properly if it is applied thick. It is intended to be absorbed, not to sit on the surface. Subsequent clear coats may have adhesion problems and the stain may run into the clear coat.

If you want a more intense color, change to a darker stain.

I would recommend you get a couple of cans of Zinsser's Spray Can Shellac. Apply an even coat over the stain before you apply any other finish. This will provide a barrier coat and minimize the chance of problems. The Zinsser Spray Can shellac is totally dewaxed so you can use any lacquer, oil based or waterborne clear coat.

[Steve Schoene]

To add to what Howie says, next time you need a dark color on a hard wood, think about using a dye instead of a stain.

I'll second (or is it third) the suggestion to use a dewaxed shellac barrier coat under a waterborne top coat. (Or just stop with the shellac.)

[david babcock]

To add to what Howie says, next time you need a dark color on a hard wood, think about using a dye instead of a stain.

I'll second (or is it third) the suggestion to use a dewaxed shellac barrier coat under a waterborne top coat. (Or just stop with the shellac.)

Is it ok if I revive this thread? Ive been reading a ton on here about finishes and stains and varnishes. Theres so many opinions on so many products that it can be quite overwhelming.
I too am looking to finish a baby crib- I've got a white oak crib and am looking for a dark color with a bit of a sheen (satin/semi-gloss, whatever).
I thought I would just rag stain then top coat with a brushed polyurethane. Ive also been tempted to experiment with a few coats of the new stain/poly all in one product.
Im no professional (no hv sprayer or anything like that). Whats my best bet for simple application and good results?

Thanks everyone!

[Rich Dorffer]

I am dealing with this same issue, recently designing/building a dresser and a crib and quickly approaching the finishing stage. Both pieces are mostly solid walnut (the dresser has maple drawers with walnut faces). I haven't built anything for a few years (last item was a cherry pie safe) and my biggest downfall is finishing IMO (most of my history is with Watco Danish Oil and wax finishing techniques with walnut and using Minwax stains and Vanguard varnish on other species, I have never used shellac).

My plans on the crib and dresser are as follows:

- Sand everything to 220
- Boiled linseed oil on both pieces, just a light amount and then,
- Shellac. I made up my first batch of shellac (garnet flakes with Bekhol), about a 1.3# cut which I plan to pad on a few coats with some light sanding with 320 and/or maroon Scotchbrite pad.
- Waterlox satin (on the crib and exterior of the dresser), 1 or 2 coats for complete protection.

I need to do my basic plan on a few practice pieces to determine this is for certain what I want to do. I don't think the garnet shellac is what I will want on the maple (I believe I will want to keep it very light), so I might buy a quart of Zinsser SealCoat to use on the maple drawers (all interior parts).

Regards,

Rich

[Joe Chritz]

Unless you are using the shellac for color you don't need it under the waterlox. The waterlox is a solvent base product and will warm the wood the same way shellac will. Obviously you can work with different tints of shellac to get different looks.

Waterlox is a good product and one of my favorites.

Joe

[Mark Rios]

I am dealing with this same issue, recently designing/building a dresser and a crib and quickly approaching the finishing stage. Both pieces are mostly solid walnut (the dresser has maple drawers with walnut faces). I haven't built anything for a few years (last item was a cherry pie safe) and my biggest downfall is finishing IMO (most of my history is with Watco Danish Oil and wax finishing techniques with walnut and using Minwax stains and Vanguard varnish on other species, I have never used shellac).

My plans on the crib and dresser are as follows:

- Sand everything to 220
- Boiled linseed oil on both pieces, just a light amount and then,
- Shellac. I made up my first batch of shellac (garnet flakes with Bekhol), about a 1.3# cut which I plan to pad on a few coats with some light sanding with 320 and/or maroon Scotchbrite pad.
- Waterlox satin (on the crib and exterior of the dresser), 1 or 2 coats for complete protection.

I need to do my basic plan on a few practice pieces to determine this is for certain what I want to do. I don't think the garnet shellac is what I will want on the maple (I believe I will want to keep it very light), so I might buy a quart of Zinsser SealCoat to use on the maple drawers (all interior parts).

Regards,

Rich

Rich, I've got a question about your pie safe, if I may? What kind of combination does one use for a pie safe?

[Rob Amadon]

Is it ok if I revive this thread? Ive been reading a ton on here about finishes and stains and varnishes. Theres so many opinions on so many products that it can be quite overwhelming.
I too am looking to finish a baby crib- I've got a white oak crib and am looking for a dark color with a bit of a sheen (satin/semi-gloss, whatever).
I thought I would just rag stain then top coat with a brushed polyurethane. Ive also been tempted to experiment with a few coats of the new stain/poly all in one product.
Im no professional (no hv sprayer or anything like that). Whats my best bet for simple application and good results?

Thanks everyone!

David,
You can try the stain/poly all in one product (Minwax polyshades, a.k.a. the worst thing to ever happen to a can) if you want, but I wouldn't recommend it. Finishes with color in them (known as toners) are best applied with a spray gun. Brushing or wiping them on causes streaks because of the nature of the product. Also, please think about something other than polyurethane. In almost all cases poly is the worst choice you can make to finish anything but a floor. It has problems with adhesion, clarity, yellowing and UV breakdown among it's many faults. In exchange for these faults you get slightly more abrasion resistance than other varnish products.

Is your crib going to be walked on? If not use one of the many superior varnishes available. Or try a finish like shellac.

Rob

[david babcock]

wow Rob- dont hold back on the poly stuff . I thought shellac was way more technique sensitive for a beginner like me without expensive spray equiptment.

Due to the many smaller parts- i thought I shouldnt be too worried about streaks like a large flat surface on a table- so Im glad you said something.

What else will give me some smoothness, a little shine and some durability? The more I read, the more confused I become (rookie).

[Rich Dorffer]

Unless you are using the shellac for color you don't need it under the waterlox. The waterlox is a solvent base product and will warm the wood the same way shellac will. Obviously you can work with different tints of shellac to get different looks.

I am using the shellac for some color and some pore filling.

Waterlox is a good product and one of my favorites.

That's good to know. The nice thing is I am near a Rockler, a Woodcraft and Hartville Hardware so there are lots of good local sources for this stuff.

Furthermore, Waterlox is a local company so I like to support local companies when I can.

Regards,

Rich

[Rich Dorffer]

Rich, I've got a question about your pie safe, if I may? What kind of combination does one use for a pie safe?

Come on Mark, I can't tell you that, it would defeat the purpose...



Regards,

Rich

[Rich Dorffer]

wow Rob- dont hold back on the poly stuff . I thought shellac was way more technique sensitive for a beginner like me without expensive spray equiptment.

Due to the many smaller parts- i thought I shouldnt be too worried about streaks like a large flat surface on a table- so Im glad you said something.

What else will give me some smoothness, a little shine and some durability? The more I read, the more confused I become (rookie).

How about using Waterlox products instead of poly? I think it might work well for you.

Regards,

Rich

[Steve Schoene]

For ease of application Waterlox Original/Sealer is tops, looks good, and is quite durable. It takes 5-9 coats since each is so thin.

But the techniques of applying shellac aren't that hard to pick up--with the possible exception of French polish, which you don't often want. It doesn't need spray equipment at all. In fact I know some professional finishers who usually apply shellac by hand, even though they are fully equipped to spray.