Which router bit

[Lori Kleinberg]

I need to make a duplicate of this drawer

Which router bit do I use for the finger pulls? Prefer Freud or Amana since woodworkers source will be having a big sale on these next weekend.
Thanks

[Dave Falkenstein]

I think a straight bit that is the same diameter as the width of the slot will do the job. Be sure the straight bit has a cutting edge on the bottom of the bit - some straight bits are designated as bottom cutting. I'd choose a two-flute bit for a smoother cut. Make several passes, increasing the depth with each pass, and a final pass that cuts just a bit of the bottom of the finger pull as a finish pass.

If you were to use a bit that is smaller in diameter than the finger pull, then you would need to make a template and a use straight bit with a top bearing.

[Jay Knoll]

Lori

I agree with Dave's advice, if the bottom is flat, can't tell from the picture. If not you'll need a core box bit
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2121

a template and guide would probably give you the most control

[Mack Cameron]

Hi Lori; it looks to me like the bottom of that groove is rounded. If that is the case I don't see how a straight bit will do what you want. No disrespect intended to Dave's answer!
Freud has a number of round nosed bits in their 18 series from 18-100 -- 18-138 depending on the radius you require. They also have a dish carving bit in their 19 series with rounded sides but I think their bottoms are too flat for what you want.
Have a look here, you may find what you are looking for.
http://www.freudtools.com/woodworker...traight_1.html
I have a hunch I'm not allowed to do this. Admin I'm sorry, kindly delete only my reference to the Freud site and I will send Lori a pm if this is against the TOS.

[Charles McCracken]

Lori,

It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks to me like it was plowed with a straight bit then followed with a top bearing dovetail to make the finger pull. Or maybe a finger pull bit like this 99-007 (though the groove doesn't look wide enough for it):

[Lori Kleinberg]

The groove is flat bottomed with a recess about a 1/4" deep all around.

[Dave Falkenstein]

The groove is flat bottomed with a recess about a 1/4" deep all around.

I looked for a recess in the photo, but could not see it. I think you can cut the slot as I suggested above, and then use a t-slot bit to cut the recess in the bottom of the finger pull. You will need to fashion a template and use a bushing to ride against the template to cut the recess. I am not aware of any t-slot bits fitted with a top bearing.

[Ben Grunow]

I would think that a bit that is the full width of the pull (looks like 3/4" to 1") would really burn at the ends so maybe a smaller diameter bit would work better.. More work making jig for router though. Just a thought.

[Scott Thornton]

I would recommend Whiteside, CMT and Amana bits, in that order when you're looking at brands...just my opinion. I have a lot of router bits and have tried a lot of different ones, those are the ones I have seen the best quality from.

[Alter Bobbit]

Lori,
I have to agree with Mr. Charles and the finger pull bit as I have one purchased with plans to use, but not yet.

To all,
I am making quick drawers in shop and want an embedded drawer pull sort of shown by Lorii. But, wanted the finger pull only at top and then a reverse or round over at the bottome so will not collect saw dust etc. Anyone done such a thing? Thinking of a straight bit slot accross drawer front, then a round over across bottom, then do the finger pull bit on the top of the slot. Plan a 3/4-inch pine front, using up scaps to make all parts of drawers and remainer of a case of Euro-slide (22 in) from couple years ago. Just getting back into shop after long lay off from various problems and trying to organize as spend most times moving hand tools from machine to machine (smile). Thus any suggestions welcome on quick and simple or time saving.