Air Sanders

[Rob Will]

I have some experience doing auto body work with a typical dual-action air sander. How do air operated orbital sanders designed for wood differ from the DA sanders that I have used for years?

I see some little square pad, 20,000 rpm air sanders in a catalog. One in particular mentions a 1/16" orbit featuring "virtually vibration free" operation. (?)

I have a new Curtis 7.5 hp air compressor.
Any suggestions on air sanders for my wood shop?
Any particular brands that you like?
Is air powered better than electric?

Thanks,

Rob

[CPeter James]

I have a Dynabrade that I like. I use the Mirka Abranet system. It really works good. Very good dust control for me. Mirka makes a similar unit. Both are air powered. About a bazillion times faster than an electric.

CPeter

[Reg Mitchell]

Hi Rob
I use a Porter Cable electric ROS. One of the reasons I don't go to air is the noise and the extra expense. The electric if fine for me and I don't have to listen to the air compressor going. I do have a 80 gal. tank and coule quite easly handel the air tools but for now I can do just as well with out them.
Reg

[Jim DeLaney]

I have some experience doing auto body work with a typical dual-action air sander. How do air operated orbital sanders designed for wood differ from the DA sanders that I have used for years?

Rob,
I don't think there's any difference between the DA you're familiar with and the ones sold for woodworking.

I have a 6" DA (CP brand) that I got from a friend that retired from doing auto bodywork. Other than being just about the biggest air hog in my shop, it works beautifully for wood projects. Gives a great finish with a 220 grit disc. and removes stock quickly with an 80 or 100 grit disc.

[Bob Johnson2]

Rob, when I have big jobs, like stripping a canoe, I use the DA from when I did auto body. Mines pretty old and has no air collection on it, I should break down and get one that's more up to date but haven't. Pros: It works much better then any of the electrics I have or have had. Cons: The compressor runs pretty much constantly, I have a 6hp but it's a comsumer job. The air hose is more of a hassle then an electric cord. Condensation, at least for me.

[Rick Lizek]

The main difference in air sanders is you can use them for wet sanding. A good electric sander makes more sense. Why fire up a 7.5 hp compressor for an air sander. An electric sander is cheaper to run overall. The other advantage of an air sander is less parts and it runs cooler. I find all the top name brand air sanders are fine from Master Power to Sioux to Dynabrade. The new electric sanders are perfectly fine. Years ago there were only air powered random orbit sanders.

[Dick Bringhurst]

I too use the Dynabrade. It removes material fast and the dust control is excellent. Dick B.

[Jim Becker]

The primary difference between air sanders made for body work and those made for woodworking would be accomodation for dust control. In addition to the units already mentioned, Festool also offers air-powered sanders that are "remakably similar" to their electric offerings.

That all said, I think that air-powered sanders make most sense when maintenance is a big factor...such as on a production line (electrical safety figures there, too) or for a tool that is used a lot for dusty sanding. (Some turners have, umm...turned...to the Grex pneumatic angle sander for that reason). A situation where a lot of different tools need to be used at a given workstation is also another area when pneumatic can be useful for simple plug-and-play. Given that most woodworkers do not have an air supply sufficient to run with the SCMF requirements of many of the pneumatic sanders, they market is pretty small outside of production situations, however.

I'm considering the Grex to use at the lathe when my Souix angle drill dies, but will stick with my electric sanders for anything else. (Festool, in my case)

[Kristian Wild]

I use the Dynabrade for about a third to a half of every work day. Every time I have to go back to a Dewald or Makita ROS I wonder what I was thinking before I asked my boss to get the Air-powered one. It's faster, easier on my wrists, and way lighter. The downsides: the compressor runs ALOT - put it in another room or outside. Sometimes the light weight is not such a good thing too. When pondering several acres of table tops to sand I would look longingly at one of my co-workers Souix (sp?) air sanders. A beefier block of solid cast aluminum. Less pressure from you means happier wrists.

Just say "no" to carpal tunnel syndrome!

Kris

[Noah Katz]

"About a bazillion times faster than an electric."

Hmm. I just got a Bosch 1250DEVS after reading reviews of how aggressively it removes material with the feature that locks on the rotational motion.

When I bear down on my RA air sander (Ingersoll Rand 4151) the rotation slows to almost nothing and it doesn't seem to remove material that fast.

I'll have to put the Bosch through its paces and see.

It sure is big and heavy. Is there such a thing as an air sander with the same locked rotation feature?

Or maybe I just got the wrong air sander. Could you guys give the specific model numbers you're happy with?

Have you compared them with something like the Bosch?

Thanks

[Rob Will]

I too use the Dynabrade. It removes material fast and the dust control is excellent. Dick B.

Dick,
Do you use an external vacuum, shop vac etc. or do you have a self-generating vacuum on your Dynabrade sander?

Has anybody tried the Dynabug II palm sander?

Rob

[Dick Bringhurst]

Rob - Mine has a built in "skirt" around the disk that collects the dust using the air generated by the sander. It can be connected to a vacuum or into a dust filter bag. I don't use the vacuum for I don't seem to get any noticeable dust. Dick B.

[Kristian Wild]

I just use the dust bag on mine too. When I had the vacuum hooked up it made a horrible high-pitched whining noise, kind of like a turbine engine. The dust collection was great but but there was just too much suction Too much of a good thing?