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Thread: How to best slice a log?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Squamish BC
    Posts
    143

    How to best slice a log?

    Hi everyone,

    I'm needing some advice on how to maximize my yield of wood from a soft maple log I salvaged off the beach on Saturday. The log isin't huge but it will yield some quilted boards as it has that lovely bumpy dimpled surface on it. The thing is, the log is noticiably more dimpled on one side than the other. Am I correct in assuming that the best figure in a quilted board is achieved on a flatsawn piece as opposed to quartersawn? If so I will put the more figured side up and have the sawer slice the log paralell to that side all the way through.

    The second dilemma is that it has a large crotch that I would like to slice through properly, but it wouldn't be on the same plane as the sawing for the figure. Should priority be given to the figured wood?

    Thanks for any advice or input,

    Kris

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Marquette Heights, Illinois
    Posts
    2,945
    Pictures Please. That way we can see what you are working with!

    Bruce
    "The great thing about Wood Turning is that all you have to do is remove what's not needed to have something beautiful. Nature does tha Hard work."

    M.H. Woodturning, Etc.
    Peoria, Illinois 61554

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Squamish BC
    Posts
    143
    Sorry Bruce I don't have pictures of the log. Imagine wonderful wavy dimples covering one side of the outer surface if the log (about half of it). Now if you were to lie the log down so that the crotch lies flat - one branch going to the left and one to the right, the wavy figured part would be completely to one side.

    Does that help?

    I guess I should've snapped a pic before I stuck it behind the building at work. Oh well.

  4. #4
    Figure in maple is only in the first few inches of wood, so flatsaw it exactly as you describe. You may have to choose between figured flatsawn boards and sawing that crotch through and through, and I'd pick the boards, as maple is difficult enough to dry without trying to season crotchwood and have it remain relatively flat.

    Depends on the tree.....some are straight-grained....but I generally mill maple thick...a full 5/4 and up...because of warpage while drying. You need to leave room to machine the boards flat prior to use.
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

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