Titebond - Liquid Hide Glue

[Tom Grice]

After reading all the recent discussion on woodworking glues, I am considering going to a hide glue for the grandfather clock I am building.

The only glue I've been able to find locally is Titebond Hide glue - I just wanted to see if anyone has had any good or bad experiences with this product before I jump in and use it on something I want to last for 100+ years.

Does this product compare to the traditional hide glues?

Thanks!

[Ernie Hobbs]

I had the same question a few months ago and I sent an email to to master of Federal Period Furniture- Rob Millard.

This is his response:
"Liquid hide glue is much like white and yellow glue, with maybe a bit longer open time. Hot hide glue on the other hand is completely different. It goes from sort of slick to sticky very quickly. This rapid change can be a curse or a blessing depending what you are trying to do. For veneering and rubbing on glue block (or knee returns on cabriole legs) that rapid and tenacious tack is great, for anything but the simplest of joints it is a problem. Once the glue gels, it has no adhesive properties. I used to use a lot of the liquid hide glue, but now I just add a little urea to my regular hot hide glue, and get the same results. Rob Millard"

You're right- you won't find hide glue at Lowes or Home Depot. However, if you go to Woodcraft or a store that caters to woodworkers, you shouldn't have a problem finding it.

[Mike Seals]

I did a lot of studdying on the hide glue and found some good info. Thats the route I'm taking. My turning point was from a post on another board buy an old wood woorker in the land of Auzz. Might be helpfull.

[Dan Forman]

Wood magazine had a review of various glues some time ago, and reported that Titebond hide glue was indeed a strong reliable glue for use on objects that won't get wet or damp. They said that the premixed was actually stronger and more consistent than the brew it yourself variety. It has a longer open time than PVA glues, and you can wipe off sqeeze out with a damp rag and it will not cause problems with finishing. It is also reversable in case the item needs repair in the future.

The article was interesting, though they didn't really include the hide glue in the formal test, which was just the major players in the PVA and Plyurethane fields. The hide glue was only mentioned in side bar.

I'm going to be trying some with my next few projects, but don't have any personal experience other than a quick test in which I joined a couple of scraps and got a very strong joint.

Dan

[Dave Anderson NH]

For indoor furniture in the normal rooms of a house, hot hide glue is great. among the big virtues that were missed by previous posters is the fact that it will take a stain or dye and a finish will go on right over it. It does require some adjustment in your technique because of the gel time. On the other hand, a good tight fitting joint doesn't have to be clamped after glueing. Now you know why you see so few clamps in the shops of 18th and early 19th century furniture and cabinetmakers, they were very rarely necessary. Just glue it up and set it aside for a few hours. Once you make the adjustment to hot hide glue, you will find it speeds up your work when you don't have to deal with waiting for the glue to cure before going on to the next step.

Woodcraft, Rockler, Woodworkers Supply, and Tools for Working Wood all carry the dry glue for making up your own hot hide glue. A $10 mini crock pot, a candy thermometer, a small glass jar for the glue, a brush, and a little water are you need to get started.

[Brad Olson]

If you are gong to buy hide glue make sure you buy it from someone who lists the gram strength and quality to make sure it is appropriate.

I have bought hide glue from Tools for Working wood, where the cost was quite reasonable, although I am not experienced enough with the glue to make any comment other than where to buy it.

[Mike Armstrong]

I got some Tite-Bond and used it once a couple years ago. I don't think it's dry yet. I'll never use the cold stuff again. After doing some reading and research, I started using the real stuff on intarisa projects - it can be a real PITA to glue together 200 pieces of various sizes and shapes . I've since used it on other kinds of projects. I get the 192gm granules from Patrick Edwards (he's local for me) - http://www.wpatrickedwards.com/gluepage.htm - and with a $10 electric burner from Big Lots, a glass jar in a Corning pot and a meat thermometer, I'm good to go. I keep the "leftovers" in the refridgerator. Now you can get it from him (and probably others) pre-mixed. I figure if it's good enough for him and Brian Boggs, . . .

Obviously, it's not as easy and grabbing a bottle and squeezing out some yellow stuff, but I like the stickiness, that it draws joints tighter as it sets, and that you can play a little bit with the viscosity and temp to adjust to the type of joints you're working on. I wouldn't use it exclusively, but it's just one more "tool" to use for certain projects. I think it'd be a good choice for something you expect to last 100 years.

Mike

[Al Willits]

Just wondering, years back when in high school I was on the work program and went to school half days and worked the other, for a short time I worked in a furniture shop with this old (then) guy and he used to have me glue chairs and stuff together.
We used a sort of brown stuff that was heated in a pot, I think each day he just turned the pot on and it was ready by the time I got there.
Could this have been Hide glue???

To bad the hiway came though, I enjoyed working with wood way back then.
Too bad I waited over 40 years to play with wood again..
Al

[Jim Becker]

Yes, Al...that was hyde glue.

[Jim DeLaney]

A variant that I like is "Old Brown Glue." It's liquid at about 80°F, and jelled much below that.

I've been using it for about six months, now, and find it very useful for laminations, veneers, and just general purpose use.

A google search will get you their website.

[Martin Shupe]

A variant that I like is "Old Brown Glue." It's liquid at about 80°F, and jelled much below that.

I've been using it for about six months, now, and find it very useful for laminations, veneers, and just general purpose use.

A google search will get you their website.

Jim and Mike....

I use Old Brown Glue as well. Expensive, but I'm worth it. Good glue, too.

[Dan Forman]

I feel comfortable in stating that Mike's experience with Titebond liquid not drying is the exception rather than the rule. I have found it worked fine for gluing canvas to boards for oil painting, and a few informal tests with scrap have been very successful as far as bonding strength. I have an older bottle with an expiration date of '02, and just now went down and glued a couple of scraps together for a test of that, will report back tomorrow with results.

It does require a minimum temp of 50*, clamp time of 30 min, and 24 hour cure time.

Dan

[Dennis Peacock]

The liquid hide glue works great. If it doesn't cure well, then it's old. I've had some that was almost 2 years old before and it still cured well. I like it a LOT and prefer it over any yellow glue. Get a glue spot on a board? No problem, Warm water and some decent rubbing and it comes right out. Good stuff and holds as well as yellow glue.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Don't ever buy hyde glue in any form other than flake.
Never Never ever

[Terry Flowers]

Why not cliff?? Other posters seemd to have good results with it.

Thanks,
Terry