Paint for log ends in cold weather.

[Dan Oelke]

So I hope to fell some dead oak trees to make logs to cut later this spring into boards.

I want to seal the ends and have read here that latex paint is a good thing for this. But in MN or WI (where the trees are) it isn't even close to the "minimum" temperature for paint. Is this a problem? Is latex better than oil or vice-versa? Anyone have any other hints?

I also read about brushing on melted wax but a hot plate isn't practical in the woods in Jan around here. Especially since without snow cover the fire danger from hot wax around and open-flame cook stove is something I'd rather avoid.

[Kyle Kraft]

Dan,

Get yourself a can or bucket of ANCHORSEAL. It is an excellent "butt wax" for logs, that is.

[Dan Oelke]

But - does the anchorseal work well in cold weather application???

I see from the UC Coatings website:

like water-based paint, care must be taken to not expose ANCHORSEAL to temperatures below 32°F. For cold weather conditions, winterized products are available.

Only thing is I can't find anything that points me to cold weather versions. Even if I could, I doubt I could find it locally today to have for use tomorrow.

[Jim Becker]

Dan, the warning on the UC site is for storage of the unused product. Once it's applied, cold weather not an issue.

[Dan Oelke]

Good point Jim. I re-read the page and see you are correct that the statement is about storage.

However - all day in the woods, without power, etc. I can keep it from freezing probably but the wood it is being applied to will be well below freezing.

BTW - has anyone painted something in the cold? What happens when you paint in cold weather. Does the paint fail dramatically or just degraded?

[Scott Neblung]

As others have echoed get some AnchorSeal or Baileys log sealant. Latex paint may work, but Anchorseal is the cats meow.

I applied some to a hard maple log the other week when it was 20 out (at nite) and its the same as when I applied it at 50 or 80 or 95. Keep it in your truck till your ready to brush it on and you'll have no problems. I use a 4" cheap brush to apply it, then seal it in a ziploc for another use later on. It'll keep for a coupla months

Oh yeah...Im in Iowa too.

Scott

[Teri McCarter]

Is it a specialty item or should it be easy to find? I was just told about that stuff the other day.

Seems like every question that pops in my head get asked on here about the same time.
Good thing or I would be the only one asking questions

I am just loving all the great info ya'll give on this site.

[Pat Zabinski]

One source of good information and supplies you might consider is a logging supply house. Bailey's (http://www.baileysonline.com/) is generally great at customer service when you get them on the phone; explain what you're after, and they'll help find the right material.

If you find something that works for you, let us know. I will be cutting some trees next winter, and I'd like to hear your experience with whatever you choose.

[George Tokarev]

So I hope to fell some dead oak trees to make logs to cut later this spring into boards.

I want to seal the ends and have read here that latex paint is a good thing for this. But in MN or WI (where the trees are) it isn't even close to the "minimum" temperature for paint. Is this a problem? Is latex better than oil or vice-versa? Anyone have any other hints?

It's winter. They won't degrade beyond what they already have until spring. If it is something you want to do, tack some cardboard over the ends. About the same thing. Does anyone up there use end sealer, even on veneer? Nobody here bothers. More money than it's worth.

[Jay Drew]

I also thought that my fresh cut logs could wait until it warmed up a bit before I sealed them with Anchorseal but they are already cracking. They have only been down for a week and they have very large star shaped cracks on the ends. I was afraid to use anchorseal in this extreme cold up here in the NE but I think I am just going to try it. It couldn't hurt.

Dan,
Have you tried sealing your logs yet?

[josh bjork]

On bow staves people use shellac or poly or titebond or latex paint and it all serves the same purpose. It all helps. If you don't seal it, it will check. Not only the very end but the first bit of the stave or log. Also if you can get them off the ground you prevent moisture & the resulting fungus from getting to them.

[Justin James]

I've been experimenting the past couple winters with the use of oils to prevent checking on winter-dropped trees. At sub-zero temps, I've had the best success with coating the ends with tung oil (the real thing); just slopping it on and ensuring coverage. On the first warm day, I went back and re-applied the oil. Eventually the weather got decent, the logs were sawn, and the boards air-dried. I lost the usual 6-9" at each end, and this cleared away all traces of the oil I'd applied.

I'm not sure this is the best way, but it beat loosing the boards. So far, its worked with ash, walnut, burr (white) oak, pear, and apple.