There were two threads recently that mentioned the Grr-ripper push blocks available from Micro Jig. They've always looked like something that I'd like to use, especially after hearing all of the glowing comments from satisfied users. However, the $140 price tag for a pair of 'em put me off a bit. I decided to cobble up a couple of home-made push blocks using the Grr-rippers as a pattern.
These are made from 3/4" and 1/2" poplar. The handles are salvaged from a couple of adhesive-spreading trowels from one of the BORG's (less than $2.50 each). I cut the tabs that connect the sliding middle pad to the t-track from the sheet metal removed from the trowel handles. The handles are secured using long #10-32 screws and brass thumb screws, allowing the handles to be moved inboard (toward the fence) to provide more control when ripping very narrow stock. The "feet" are faced wth the rubber salvaged from an old mouse pad, and actually grips much better than the harder rubber that the Micro Jig push blocks use, though it's bound to be less durable (but easily replaced).
The t-track is from Rockler.
The inboard "foot" is secured with flat- and hex-head machine screws, so that the foot can be removed, or so I can add a stand-off spacer as shown in the last picture below.
I estimate that I spent maybe $40 for the two of these, though the wood was just stuff I had laying around, I got the T-track kit for half price at a recent woodworker's show, the UHMW came from one of those $11 grab-bag assortments from the local Woodcraft, and I have a lot of it left.
This first shot is of the two basic grippers, followed by a closeup.
This shot shows one of the grippers with an outboard adjustable UHMW support to accommodate ripping narrow boards.
This shows the support in use. The support rides against the table, keeping the gripper level.
The final shot shows an additional 5/8" thick UHMW spacer screwed to the inboard edge that moves the outboard edge out of the way of the blade.
The picture shows a setup to do a 4" rip that would have run the blade right down the outboard pad. Note that the outboard support has been retracted fully, or could be removed.
These things are working extremely well!!