Rigid TS3650 or Grizzly Hybrid

[Charles Wilson]

I have been doing the research and would like to make a decision so I can start making storm windows, sandbox, an entrance bench/coat hanger, and other stuff.

Everyone that has had one claims that the Rigid is a good saw and have liked it.

For me, the mobile base is a plus, the 120 v and 13 amp is a plus, the proximity of the HD is a plus, Emerson motor is a plus, and peoples evaluation of the saw on here is a plus. The motor sticking out of the back doesn't bother me and dust collection (I plan on having a port out of the bottom and it is going to be in the garage) doesn't bother me.

I don't know much about the Griz Hybrid.

I read the Table Saw book and Kelly ? brings up some points on a contractor saw bogging down on HD woods. Is this something someone can share with me? Also, I am not concerned about running sheet goods through it as I have an EZ system and will use it for my panel cutting.

Regards,
Chuck

[John Branam]

I have the Ridgid and I have been real happy with it. I have had it for a little over 2 years and have experienced no problems, it stays tuned and cuts smoothly. I have run oak, walnut, mdf, and other sheet goods through with out ever having the motor bog down. I like the cast iron top and the room past the right extension wing is where I mounted my router table. The only negative I have is the saw at just under 300lbs. is a bit light, but adding a bag of sand on top of the herc-u-lift will take care of that.

[Lou Morrissette]

I've had the 3650 for almost 2 years and have had no problems with it. I've cut oak, ash with no bog down at all. Good alround saw in it's class and price range. Having a relatively small shop, the Herculift is a definite plus.

Lou

[James Carmichael]

I'm contemplating the Ridgid, too, if I can find room.

How's it for mounting a router table?

[John Branam]

[quote=How's it for mounting a router table?[/quote]

This is not my saw but this is what used as the model for my router table

[Art Mann]

I have had the 3650 for a year or so. During that time, I have done a lot of cutting on 4/4 and 5/4 walnut, cherry and white oak. The saw has met and in some ways exceeded my expectations. I use Freud thin kerf blades and the cutting speed is good but not great. The only real complaint I have is one you already mentioned. Dust collection is only fair and there is not an easy way to make it more effective.

[Ben Roman]

If I had to do it over I would buy the TS3650 again. Good stout saw good price close by and resale is not bad on them when you are ready for the saw stop ! I plan on keeping mine when I finally get the saw stop someday !!

Ben

[Hoa Dinh]

Charles,

I don't have experience with either one so I can't help much in specifics of the two. I just have some general comments.

Why do you limit yourself to those two? From what I've read, the Sears hybrid is a good saw too.

The motor sticking out of the back doesn't bother me and dust collection (I plan on having a port out of the bottom and it is going to be in the garage) doesn't bother me.

The motor sticking out of the back may not bother you, but only until you try to design an outfeed table (a must IMHO, by the way). You'll need to accomodate the motor.

No matter how you do it, dust collection of a contractor's saw with an open back will never be as good as the enclosed cabinet of a hybrid.

I know, I didn't make it any easier for you.

[Bart Leetch]

This first part of this post has nothing to with the saw its self.

I have never understood why people want to mount their router table in a way that they feed the material like they do when running it through the saw. If you'll observe how shaper & jointers are used it is much safer to stand along side the router table as you work than behind it. If need be put it in the left wing & stand at the end of the wing or toward the outside edge of the extension table & stand along the end of the table facing toward the end of the extension table.


As to the table-saw if you have the electric power 220 volt & can wait do wait for a cabinet saw & only buy once. In the mean time purchase a EZ Smart saw & router guide system or a Festool saw & router guide system. These systems work great especially if you have a small shop.


Think safety.

[Hoa Dinh]

I think I'm going off-track now but I've been wondering about the same issue...

I have never understood why people want to mount their router table in a way that they feed the material like they do when running it through the saw. If you'll observe how shaper & jointers are used it is much safer to stand along side the router table as you work than behind it. If need be put it in the left wing & stand at the end of the wing or toward the outside edge of the extension table & stand along the end of the table facing toward the end of the extension table.

In my case, the left wing of the TS is a sliding table. The RT can't go there.

My TS right side is butt against a wall. I can't stand there while operating the RT.

So now you understood?

Why is it "much safer to stand along side the router table as you work than behind it"? It may be safer to stand along side the router table. But standing behind the router table is at least as safe as standing behind the TS.

It's funny, because my first RT came in the right wing of a TS setup I bought used, and I learned to operate it that way. Now even when I use my backup dedicated RT, I still stand behind, not along the side.

The first time when someone asked me, "Do you feel awkward operating the RT that way?" It took me a while to figure out what he was referring to. To me, standing behind the RT was very natural.

[James Carmichael]

Why is it "much safer to stand along side the router table as you work than behind it"?

That one has me stumped, too.

[scott spencer]

Both capable saws but are in two different classes, contractor saw and hybrid. From a design perspective, a contractor saw has little advantage over the hybrid design. There's no reason to deal with the outboard motor issues unless you need to swap the motor frequently.

The Ridgid does have a built in mobile base, but you can put any saw on a mobile base. The fence on the Ridgid has a wider stock rip capacity, but the Grizzly fence is more rugged (a steel Biese clone), and can be slid to the right easily for more capacity. The motor on the Ridgid is no longer an Emerson...made in Asia.

The hybrid is more money but does offer a more modern design with the advantages associated with it...better DC, smaller footprint, shorter drive belt, more mass/stability. It basically offers many of the advantages of a cabinet saw.

I'm with Hoa...why narrow it to these two? Jet, Craftsman, GI, Delta, Sunhill, Bridgewood, Shop Fox are all strong contenders. You'll increase your odds of catching a great sale by expanding your list.

[John Branam]

The dust collection on the ridgid is much better than most contractor saws. There is a shroud around the blade underneath the saw with a port that is set up for 4" hose or pipe, I also have a zero clearnce throat plate and I get minimal dust and chips when cutting.

[Jack Ganssle]

The dust collection on the ridgid is much better than most contractor saws. There is a shroud around the blade underneath the saw with a port that is set up for 4" hose or pipe.

On my TS3650 it's 2.5", not 4", sized for a vacuum. The 12 gallon Rigid vacuum really sucks (in a good way).

Jack

[Norm Roy]

Charles, I looked at a number of contractor type saws before getting the rigid. I am very pleased with the overall quality and performance. I swapped out the oem blade and have no problems with cut quality etc.
Love the wheels, working in a garage and after you read the instructions a couple of times, no problem with set up. Good value overall.