Workshop Floors

[mike malone]

Hi
Has anyone had good results painting concrete floors in workshops? My finishes never seem to last with rolling machinery around and sawdust miraculously sticking to the finish. I've tried all HD has to offer in latex floor paint, but have yet to spring for the $100 a gallon epoxy finishes. Beside which i want a shiny surface and that (oil based) paint is not available in Calif. Any thoughts anyone?
thanks
mike

[Charles McKinley]

Several people here have posted about using the epoxy system successfully. Now if they will post an update on how it is holding up. I think Terry Hatfield was one of the first to post about it.

Good luck,

[Skip Evans]

I just finished painting a new floor with 2 part epoxy. I did not have any of the problems others were concerned about. It went on great and looks good. The only problem seems to be that it is a little slick with some sawdust sitting on it. It sweeps and mops just fine.

[mike malone]

I just finished painting a new floor with 2 part epoxy. I did not have any of the problems others were concerned about. It went on great and looks good. The only problem seems to be that it is a little slick with some sawdust sitting on it. It sweeps and mops just fine.

hi skip
which brand did you use? and
got any photos of the process or the finished floor to post here?
was this on an old unpainted concrete floor?
thanks
mike

[Ken Garlock]

Mike, when we built our new house/shop/garages, the painter used the Sherwin Williams "Tile Clad" two part epoxy. on the shop and all the garage floors. It is expensive, like $80 for the gallon of "part A" and a gallon of "part B", they mix in equal amounts. So, it is $40/gal, which is about the price of good paint.

Prepare the floor as usual, acid wash, etc. The paint is dry to touch in 2 hours, and you can walk on it the next day for the purposes of applying a second coat. It takes two weeks to cure and then you can drive on it. I just finished using it to paint my dust collection trough and the steel diamond plate which covers it. The only thing bad about the process is that it STINKS! OH yes, add some sand to the mix to give it a little grip and kill the gloss. The sand is available at the S/W store, they will know what you want. The tools you will need are paint roller and tray, a 2" brush for edging, a 3 gal bucket to mix in, a paint stiring do-flingie that fits an electric drill. Plan on throwing everything away when you are done, the instructions on the can don't specify anything to use to clean up.

Hope this helps....

[sven timpe]

Hi, Mike;

Skip and Ken have the right idea. Ken's instructions are right on the money. Only one thing I would disagree on. If you have Pittsburgh Paints available in Riverside I would definitely go talk to them about the 2-part epoxy. Their product is as good if not better than sherwin williams' and it costs less. Not by much, mind you, but it is less expensive.

Don't forget to clean the floor first!! Wash it with TSP (Tri-Sodium Phosphate, this gets rid of any grease or oil) first, then acid wash with muriatic acid (1 part muriatic acid to 5 parts water), rinse thoroughly and let dry .

Then follow Ken's ideas. Too true about the cleanup part. Make sure everything is disposable. Have fun, brother. You know what they say, better you than me...hehehe.

Sven

[Dave Hammelef]

Mike, when we built our new house/shop/garages, the painter used the Sherwin Williams "Tile Clad" two part epoxy. on the shop and all the garage floors. It is expensive, like $80 for the gallon of "part A" and a gallon of "part B", they mix in equal amounts. So, it is $40/gal, which is about the price of good paint.

STINKS! ....

Did he mention IT STINKS.

Did my basement with the stuff. Besides nearly killing myself through a true comedy of errors (opened doors accidently coverd with tarp, fan on low not high...)

Have some tips if your going to do a 2-part epoxy.

But after 3 days the odor was mostly gone.

OH ya IT STINKS