Has anyone tried a fence set up like this one from accusquare?

[Larry Rasmussen]

This Eurojig caught my eye when I was over at the web sit browsing-

http://mulecab.com/TableSaw/M5Euro.html

Do Europeans really just run the fence up to mid point on the blade? That is the feature or component of this product I am asking about. I have generally run my fences somewhat longer than stock but not always with the best result. Right now to clear up some shop (garage) space I am trying out a Bosch 4000 portable 10" table saw with the gravity wheel stand. So far using the Grip Tight Fence system I had on my old saw it works quite well except the fence doesn't stay absolutely adjusted. The Grip tight is the system that puts a steel face on your fence and lets you use their guides that stay on magnetically. I have used that for a year or so and do like it better than my old Yellow wheels set up.

Anyway I am thinking about shortening up the fence a bit back to the Bosch stock length and perhaps even trying the new Accusquare fence made for small saws. Has anyone tried any variation on the standard fence set up that involves shortening it up? I am just interested in if/how this has been applied.

The reason I don't get off my butt and just go shorten it and report back to you all is because my foot is broken and I have to minimize weight bearing for a while longer. This forum has been a great source or knowledge and entertainment both over the last few weeks. Great bunch of people.

Larry R

[Bart Leetch]

Larry

Why don't you just try clamping a short board to you fence & use it that way first see if you like it?

I have tried it & can see why they like it. BUT would not permanently modify my fence by cutting it up.

Its kinda like I've cut this board 3 times & its still to short.

[Jim Dailey]

Hi Larry,

Reading thru the info it appear it's an accessory for ripping; floppy, thin laminate or ply, & thin stock. And for a short cross cut fence so the cut off won't bind behind the blade & kick back. Similar concept to the Delta fence that slides fore & aft that they've offered on their Unisaw & Contractors saw for a number of years.

I don't think you'd be happy with a short fence that ends in the middle of the blade as your only fence for all situations. For long rips on sheet stock & boards the short fence offers a small surface area to keep the rip tracking straight.

I think you would be better off getting a good fence that accurately locks parallel to the blade 100% of the time & adding the short fence like Bart suggested for special situations as they come up...

Hope this helps, jim

[Don Kugelberg]

Larry,

I used the Accusquare Fence and Eurojig for years on an older Craftsman tablesaw. I found the Eurojig very useful for exactly the reasons Jim states in his post. I used it for crosscuts and for ripping thin laminate that would have slid under the fence without the Eurojig. It adjusts easily foward or back so you can decide where exactly you want it placed for the job at hand. My only regret with this setup was that I didn't buy it sooner. I struggled with the original Craftman fence for way too long!

Sold the saw with the fence when I upgraded to a Powermatic 66!

[Larry Rasmussen]

I had decided to go back to the stock length on my little saw's fence, well past the blade of course and was looking for a fence upgrade when I went over to Accusquare. I recognise the functions of the eurofence for laminated stock ripping or a cut off register. I guess I read more in to the description text than I should have. I was not thinking about getting one but was interested in what I thought was a more general statement about the jig.

One thing that has been happening on the bosch saw with the narrower table since I added the extended face to the fence front is that at the end of a longer rip cut the board will start to have a tendancy to push away from the fence in the back. I checked and re checked the fence and noticed a tendancy to drift a bit in the set. Maybe adding the wood and steel fence face added more weight than optimal for this little guy.

Anyway thanks much for your comments, I look forward to sneaking out to the shop this weekend for more work, less reading. And I definitely won't be thinking about: "Use your rip fence the way Europeans do!"

Larry R.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Do Europeans really just run the fence up to mid point on the blade?

Dunno 'bout the euros but I do that often enough with my fence. It can be repositioned foward and backward or laid down so as to present a small fence height so I can rip littlle stuff and not feel like it's pushing my hand toward the blade.

[glenn bradley]

If your current fence has the t-slot to accept this accessory I would bolt up a piece of MDF and call it good. I did this sort of thing with my old Align-a-Rip but the purpose was to extend the fence past the back of the saw. Different purpose, same principle.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36816

[Jim Dailey]

Larry,

You might take a look at the blade alinement to the miter slot, this could be the source of some of your problems.

Take it easy on that foot this weekend.

Hope this helps, jim

[Jim Becker]

This is one of the advantages of the UniFence as well as many of the fences on Euro machines...you can slide them back to act as a gage for crosscutting with the miter or slider without binding at the blade. I've often simulated that on a Biesemeyer style fence with a clamped on piece, but prefer the sliding fence face.