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Thread: Shapton stones

  1. #1

    Shapton stones

    Has anyone used Shapton stones? Worth the money?

    Bob
    bob m

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
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    2,266
    Bob,
    I have had them for about 6 months now, and think they are fantastic. The 1000 cuts really fast. I also have the 5000 and 8000. The 8000 is a better stone than the 5000, and it was explained to me that they changed the chemistry a bit on the 8000. The problem with the 5000 is that it is so flat that when lapping, there is so much suction that it becomes a pain to actually move the blade or iron on the stone. If price is an issue, then you might skip the 8000. I got the 3 I did as there was a bit of a discount of the set, but the finer stones are far more expensive. Doing it again, I might opt for the 12000 instead of the 8000, but I have not tried it.
    You will need to flatten these, as with any waterstone, but less so than the softer ones. These are firm stones. My best way, after a lot of different approaches, is a sheet of clear plastic shelf liner, PSA, on a flat piece of granite floor tile which I checked with a starrett straight edge, using medium grit abrasive powder. It doesn't take much powder. An informal lapping plate, if you will. This approach gives you tiny grooves, which helps with the suction issue.
    A-2 Cryo is not a problem on these stones. They still cut fast.
    They are not cheap, but to a neander concerned with sharpening, as all neanders must be, they are well worth it, IMHO. I got mine from Joel, in NYC, at the toolsforworkingwood.com site. Talk to him if there are any questions as he is knowledgable about what he sells.
    I seem to recall that Steve Knight uses them. And I saw a site where there was a report of a hand planing competition with smoothers, where the task was to take one continuous shaving from a 1.5" thick board of maple about 10 or so feet long, with the winner having the thinest shaving. It came in at .0078" as I reacall. In the photographs you can see the planers tuning up their irons with Shaptons.
    If you are in the Phila area, email me and you can do a test drive.
    Alan

  3. #3

    Yes, and Yes

    Bob,

    I've done the whole gamut--oil stones, diamond, ceramic, Scary Sharp, waterstones--and the Shapton stones are a favorite by a long shot. Lapping chisel and plane blade backs goes quickly enough that I actually DO it and do it right! And it's nice to be able to just spray the stone surface rather than keep them soaking all the time.

    John

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by John Wadsworth
    Bob,

    I've done the whole gamut--oil stones, diamond, ceramic, Scary Sharp, waterstones--and the Shapton stones are a favorite by a long shot. Lapping chisel and plane blade backs goes quickly enough that I actually DO it and do it right! And it's nice to be able to just spray the stone surface rather than keep them soaking all the time.

    John
    John,

    Why do you prefer it over the Scary Sharp system? What grit Shaptons...1000, 5000? What do you use for a lapping plate?

    Thanks again.

    Bob
    bob m

  5. #5
    I use the 320, 1000, 5000, and 8000 grit shapton stones. I'm thinking of adding the 110 and 2000 grit stones as sometimes the 320 isn't coarse enough and the jump from 1000 to 5000 can be a bit much sometimes. Also the 2000 grit stone is probably more usefull for maintaining the edge (why go back to 1000 if all you need to do is rehone). With all of these stones it is imperative to keep them flat. I use the Shapton steel flatening plate with various grit powders and always flaten the stones when I'm done using them. When preparing a new blade for use I will reflaten the stones every couple of minutes; the reflatening process is real quick if you do it often enough (i.e. takes 20-30 seconds). The sharpening DVD that Harelson puts out is very good. I especially like the technique of moving the blade back on a higher grit stone to establish a bit of shine and then move to the coarser stone for flatening; it really highlights which parts of the blade still need work. You will also notice that your stones aren't flat when you move from grit to grit and notice that you need to spend a bunch of time to get the blade to wear down - a sign that the two stones weren't flat with respect to each other. If you sharpen a lot, or don't mind spending a bit of money, then the Shapton diamond lapping plate would be a good addition - this baby really works stones and metal down quickly, and it's very flat. But alas, I don't have an extra $500 lying around to pick this baby up. As for the grits, the 5000 grit stone is high enough for most chisels but you should take plane blades up to 8000 or higher, depending on how smooth of a surface you like your plane blades to give.

  6. #6

    Good article on flattening stones

    I saw an interesting article on the Woodcentral Hand Tool board about supplies for flattening Shapton stones or any water stone really. Russell Seaton did the article. Basically his conculsion was that the supplies sold by Shapton for flattening stones are way over priced. He found a Kanaban flattening plate from Japan Woodworker for $12.95 which he used instead of the $120 plate for the Shaptons. The big money saver he found was buying silicon carbide grit from a lapidary supply company. He paid alot less for the silicon carbide grits. The price break down was $3.50 per pound for course grits and $6.00 per pound for fine grits. The stuff sold specifically for Shapton is $14.95 per 7 ounces for course grits and $24.95 per 7 ounces for fine grits which makes them almost ten times more expensive. Hope this saves somebody some money.

    Wendell

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Wendell Wilkerson
    I saw an interesting article on the Woodcentral Hand Tool board about supplies for flattening Shapton stones or any water stone really. Russell Seaton did the article. Basically his conculsion was that the supplies sold by Shapton for flattening stones are way over priced. He found a Kanaban flattening plate from Japan Woodworker for $12.95 which he used instead of the $120 plate for the Shaptons. The big money saver he found was buying silicon carbide grit from a lapidary supply company. He paid alot less for the silicon carbide grits. The price break down was $3.50 per pound for course grits and $6.00 per pound for fine grits. The stuff sold specifically for Shapton is $14.95 per 7 ounces for course grits and $24.95 per 7 ounces for fine grits which makes them almost ten times more expensive. Hope this saves somebody some money.

    Wendell

    Thanks, Wendell,

    I saw that post ...and acted upon Russell's advice. Bought some Shaptons and that (or very similar) plate from Hartville. That's the beauty of these forums - nice people and great info. Time for me to stop buyin' and start tryin' with the tools!

    Bob
    bob m

  8. #8

    Sorry, Bob,

    ..I've been off the computer for a day.

    I use the same stones as Steve, though for me the 320 seems plenty coarse for initial flattening of backs.

    The lapping plate is one I've had for years--can't remember where I got it. And I've got a fair amount of carbide grit lying around, too.

    John

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Sunny California
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    422
    Has anybody tried the Veritas power sharpening system? Lyn Mangiameli, a well respected authority on planes at least as far as many people are concerned including me, swears by it. I am in somewhat the same position as Bob, deciding whether to take the big expensive leap into Shapton's. I have tried scary sharp and don't like the curved surface it leaves from substrate colapse. I don't like the constant flattening routine of waterstones and I don't know about the lapping plate requirement either with Shapton's. How often do Shapton's require flattening? My king waterstones can't make it through 2 block planes. Where is the best place to buy Shapton's. To cloud up the issue even more, I read a newsgroup post by Steve Knight that he sharpens hundreds of irons using the Makita sharpener. I think Makita has a very fine grit waterstone available. I have a Delta Sharpening station now that I would not put my L-N plane irons on. Any advice?

    Gene

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles County, CA
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    362
    I was just at Shapton's site, and they have a video on using their new diamond lapping plate and stone flatener. Very interesting. They don't have what the cost will be on the site yet. Toolsforworkingwood.com sell the Shapton line. Joel is very helpful. I would still like to find out more about the Makita (I hear that it is quite messy) and the Lee Valley.
    Last edited by Lloyd Robins; 11-28-2003 at 12:57 AM.
    Old age can be better than the alternative.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Eagle River, Alaska
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    731
    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Robins
    I was just at Shapton's site, and they have a video on using their new diamond lapping plate and stone flatener. Very interesting. They don't have what the cost will be on the site yet. Toolsforworkingwood.com sell the Shapton line. Joel is very helpful. I would still like to find out more about the Makita (I hear that it is quite messy) and the Lee Valley.
    Lloyd, I here the new lapping plate is going to be priced at 476.00 DAMWIHT
    Rich
    ALASKANS FOR GLOBAL WARMING

    Eagle River Alaska

  12. #12
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    Sep 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Robins
    I was just at Shapton's site, and they have a video on using their new diamond lapping plate and stone flatener. Very interesting. They don't have what the cost will be on the site yet. Toolsforworkingwood.com sell the Shapton line. Joel is very helpful. I would still like to find out more about the Makita (I hear that it is quite messy) and the Lee Valley.
    Lloyd,

    If you do a google search on the Veritas sharpener, in the ww newsgroup, you should be able to find a report written by Lyn on the Veritas. I think he uses it exclusively now but can't say for sure. I may email him. Also in the same thread Steve Knight adds his opinion on the Makita. Good Luck finding it!
    The new Woodcraft in Stanton also has what appears to be a Makita clone for only $89. Might be worth a try, I'm going to try and swing by today and get a look. At that price it may even prove to be a good tool to use in conjunction with stones. It cost about as much as 1 Shapton and if you don't like it you can return it within a year.

    Gene

  13. #13
    IIRC Steve uses the Makita to establish the bevel on his plane irons but then uses the Shapton hippo stones (they're quite big) to sharpen the blades. The Makita outfited with the wheels Steve uses cut quite fast and leave a flat ground bevel that Steve likes.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles County, CA
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    362
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard McComas
    Lloyd, I here the new lapping plate is going to be priced at 476.00 DAMWIHT
    I just got a reply on the new lapping plate, and it is even more expensive. They said that it is $489.00. Wow! It is nice, but I could buy a lot of other systems for much less. Maybe the Shapton stones and a Norton diamond plate or just a lapping plate like Bob did. Darn!
    Last edited by Lloyd Robins; 11-28-2003 at 9:21 PM.
    Old age can be better than the alternative.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Wilson
    IIRC Steve uses the Makita to establish the bevel on his plane irons but then uses the Shapton hippo stones (they're quite big) to sharpen the blades. The Makita outfited with the wheels Steve uses cut quite fast and leave a flat ground bevel that Steve likes.
    Yes, I'm aware about Steve's usage of the Makita and the stones. But I am thinking if a small grinder like the Makita can take you 90% of the way to a sharp iron, you may be way ahead. I like that flat ground bevel too!

    gene

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