Fair Hourly Rate??

[Jeff Weight]

I've been asked to install base molding in a formal dinning room. I'd like to charge by the hour and wonder what you feel a fair rate is? This rate would also calculate into the trip to the lumber yard to pickup the molding. Also should I markup the cost of the molding? If so, how much?

Thanks for providing your input.

Jeff

[Dewayne Reding]

Jeff

I'm not qualified, but the first question I would ask is where do you live? I can get a small house in rural Iowa for about the same as an East coaster might pay for a nice garage. I'm guessing union scale for a trim carpenter might vary widely.

[Joe Unni]

Jeff,

I agree with Dewayne as I suspect it could vary widely. Also, you may want to make a call to a finish carpenter and ask how much per foot to install base in your house.

And YES mark up the molding. Anywhere from 10% -25%.

Good luck,

-joe

[Per Swenson]

As has been noted above,

Location,Location,location.

35 miles west of where I type,

You can get someone to install for a case of Bud Ice.

Here...300 bucks a day plus materials.

Lets not even discuss furniture moving or the problems

inherent in old work.

Per

[skip coyne]

I prefer to charge a flat rate , that way if I get in and "kick butt " I do well .If Im having a off day , get a couple of cell phone calls , cant find a tool in the back of the truck , etc the customer doesnt suffer as a result .

I'm assuming you dont do this for a living , so getting some quotes from trim carpenters is a good Idea but keep in mind you should charge 50-75% what they charge as they will likley accomplish much more than you in a 60 min period

[Larry Crim]

I agree with skip, I live in a new construction area and the trim carpenters around here go for anything from 30 to 50 per hour when they estimate a job but they are very fast. like Per said about 300 a day + material but I have seen them work while I think the quality suffers a little due to the fact they want to finish and get on to the next job I could never install trim as fast as them with the same results mine would look like c&^p if I tried to keep up with them.

[John Michaels]

Based on experience from my own business (not related to woodworking) charging roughly $40 per hour, give or take, will usually be adequate. When you consider wear and tear on your vehicle, tools, taxes, cost of insurance, etc., $40 per hour turns out to be more like $25 in the end.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I never quote jobs by the hour. Determine how long it will take you then give them a solid price.

Here's a typical job I did in 2004....15x10 room...$350. Materials....$100. About 4 hours to complete including setup, breakdown, cleanup and caulking for paint. Works out to about $7 per foot.

[Jeff Weight]

I've worked in the trades, but it was 10 years ago. I've been a cabinet maker, finish stair installer, and owned my own trade show display business. I use to be up to date on current rates, but don't have a clue any longer. While this is a side job, it's not paying the bills. That said I still want to make some money for my time and not give it away.

[Paul Wingert]

I think charging by the hour will only lead to hard feelings. The person you are doing this for (friend/acquainance) will have resentment every time you go to the bathroom "on the clock" or whatever. Plus, you have an ackward situation if you tell them you think it will take about 20 hours, and it ends up taking 40. (Just an example).

Charge them by the foot or for the entire job. That way the price is agreed upon up front and there's no hard feelings. Of course, that puts the burden on you to estimate accurately.

[Jeff Weight]

I check with several local sources and decided that it was best to charge for installation by the foot. So I've given my customer a firm price for the whole job, based on a per foot price, plus marking up the materials 25%.