There should be Hogan Hardwoods down there, too.Originally Posted by Corvin Alstot
Try this, I used it to find a couple of good sawmills reasonably closeby:
http://www.woodweb.com/Resources/RSSDGsawyers.html
Member
There should be Hogan Hardwoods down there, too.
Try this, I used it to find a couple of good sawmills reasonably closeby:
http://www.woodweb.com/Resources/RSSDGsawyers.html
Member
Thomas,
He divides by 12 two times in the second formula. The formulas are six to one, half-dozen to the other, they both yield the same BF value.
I presume 8/4 costs more because 1) it's harder to find logs that will yield good, clear 8/4 boards, but more importantly 2) it takes 2x as long to dry. Next to transportation, kiln-drying is probably the most expensive piece of the process.
Member
I guess I missed the second division by 12?"Thickness (in inches) x Depth (in inches) x Length (in inches) / 12"
He divides by 12 two times in the second formula.
Member
I believe the proper way to scale a bunch of wood is to arrive at the surface area (in square inches) and multiply by the thickness (4/4 being 1, 6/4 = 1.5 etc.) and then divide by 144. This I learned from Dr. Wengert at Woodweb; he would know.
The water dunking method (I realize was a joke, but) would not work because it would overvalue rough sawn lumber cut 1 3/16" thick, which is only 4/4, and undervalue a S2S 13/16" board, which is also 4/4.
Sometimes thicker lumber is significantly more difficult to dry than 4/4. I am not just talking about time. For example, oak is highly prone to honeycombing. Still, I personally think charging more per bf for 8/4 walnut versus 4/4 is a tad disingenious. If people ONLY demanded 8/4, then it would make sense since it takes a quality log to yield all FAS 8/4 whereas you can squeeze a few FAS 4/4 from a lower grade log.
Member
Nope! I won't buy your wood, Chris. I foresee your plan. You plan to "dunk it in the water for a week (to make sure the cracks are filled OF COURSE), then charge me by the pound for dry wood!" You didn't fool this fool! Errr well...
David
Maybe they should sell wood by real volume! Dunk the board in some water, see how much the water level rises, bingo! You'll get the exact volume! No narrow spot vs. wide spot garbage.
What do you think? Am I genius or what?!
Member
My local mill calls anything in S2S 5/8" or thicker 4/4. The owner usually rounds to the next board foot of the total. He doesn't measure anything. I once bought about 100 bf from him measuring as I went. He was not close enough to know what I measured. I needed about 90 bf plus waste. I was cutting it close trying to hit 100. He eyeballed it for about 30 seconds and said "101 bf". I got it home and measured carefully 100 and 1/4 bf! I've done that many times with the same results.
On the other hand, he will let me dig for some time through his stacks to get what I want and cull what I don't. If I find an S2S board that is 1 1/8" thick, it still counts as "4/4". That is rare, but there sometimes. If I find an exceptional piece, it is still the "standard price". That is rare too, but can be found... He also charges $1.50 a bf on most shorts (4' or under) and $3.50 on 8' lengths which are slightly longer.
For walnut and maple and cherry and my choice, I figure the low price per bf offsets his "slight" rounding up.
David
Member
It seems like all of the good lumberyards are out on the east side here in the valley. Here in north Phoenix, Woodworkers Source is the best choice I know of. There is a newer shop on Thomas that is geared toward professionals though he was certainly willing to stop and chat for a bit with me. Unfortunately he is open weekdays only, or was last time I knew. I'll have to get down to Chandler Hardwood sometime to see what it's like.
[OP]
Contributor
Brett, can you share the name of the shop in N Phoenix?...joe
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