Buying Used Woodworking Equipment

[Todd Bosse]

Hi all. This is my first post on the Creek. Let me first say how incredibly helpful and informative the Creek was been in my quest to learn about woodworking. I'm a new-comer to woodworking and I'm looking to invest in some good equipment. I've found a used bandsaw and tablesaw that I'm interested in buying and I was wondering if I could get some tips on what to look for when buying used tools.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Todd

[John Kain]

What brand and model are the tools? What shape are they in? How many hours on each?

[Ted Miller]

Todd, I buy all my larger machines used via craigslist and auctions. I treat them like buying a used car. I ask the owner many questions about repairs that may have been done, how old is the item, how many hours he has used it, what accesories he has and will throw in, voltage, and periodic maintenance he has done. Then when I go over to look at this item I have to fire it up and see how it operates. I know all old machines will need some fine tuning when I get them to my shop due to operator error, original shipping and then moving the item myself. But I wanna make sure the item will do the job for me and what I need it for in the long term...

[Matt Day]

It sounds like you know what you're doing. What exactly are you asking?

There's of course the nickel test, but as you said there's usually a lot of things that can be done to adjust and get the machine working better.

[Wilbur Pan]

Todd, where are you located? I started setting up a workshop this past fall, and bought all of my power equipment used, with the exception of a Euro style combination jointer/planer machine. I've been able to find a drill press, lathe, and bandsaw on the used market.

What helped me out tremendously was other woodworkers local to me who were able to show me in person what to look for in a used machine. See if there are clubs in your area -- that's a great place to start.

You can definitely save a lot of money buying used, and if you're a little gutsy like me, and look for vintage equipment, you'll be able to find equipment built better than current machines. My drill press, lathe, and bandsaw cost me $700 altogether. But you'll have to be patient, you'll have to be willing to walk away from a potential purchase, and you'll have to learn how to be somewhat of a mechanic.

[James Carmichael]

Do a search on this site, there's some good advice for checking trunnions, etc.

My last Iturra designs catalog had a good section on buying used bandsaws, you can also search the site for their number (still waiting for my new catalog, sigh!)

I've tried the used route, but it's time-consuming and most folks around here (North Texas) put ridiculous prices on their tools. The few that don't are usually gone before I can pick up the phone.

[lou sansone]

much of my equipment is used and if you are interested in seeing some it

take a tour here . it will link you to my new saw, but all the rest of my tools are used and that link will take you to the rest of the story

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=47797



enjoy

[Lee Schierer]

Stick with name brand stuff. Many of the off brands will be impossible to get parts if they are needed. Harbor Freight sells cheap tools, but try to get parts in two years. Sear made some good stuff and some not so good stuff. I've never found one of their aluminum topped saws that had a flat table. Cast iron is better than aluminum or stamped steel.

Condition is important as well. If the tool looks beat up, it probably is. If it is clean and free of rust it was likely taken care of well. Try all the adjustments and setting levers knobs etc. Do they work are they sloppy? Is the instruction manual included in the sale?

Do some research and see what a similar model sells for new. I've seen old equipment sold at auction sell for more than retail for a brand new one.

Consider tha mount of accessories included when determining the fair price. I wouldn't take it home if the motor doesn't work and doesn't sound good running. Motor replacement could run as much as you "saved" buying a used saw.

Make an offer lower than the asking price. If the seller doesn't bite, talk a bit more and see if he can come down on price. If he won't budge, go up a bit but not much. You should never pay more than half way between what your initial offer was and what he was advertising. Sometimes it helps to have cash readily visible to seal the deal.

Remember you will have no warranty and no recourse if there is something wrong or missing when you get it home.

[Pete Bradley]

Todd, check out www.owwm.com for articles on buying old machinery. If you're just getting started, don't buy anything you can't try out. There's no hard and fast rule on what to offer or pay, other than offering and sticking to a price that reflects the value of the machine and takes into account any repairs that will be required.

I've noticed a lot of 80s China/Taiwan machinery for sale in local ads. I don't own any, but understand the quality varies widely.

U.S. machines from the 40s-60s are a good bet as long as you're comfortable with replacing bearings and some mechanical work. Good names include (but are not limited to) Delta/Rockwell, Walker-Turner, and Yates-American. Craftsman varies from fine to junk with most machines from the last 20 years in the latter category. Delta still sells many parts for its old machines though some are notoriously unobtainable.

My youngest powered woodworking machine is 30 years old, and the oldest is 65+ and not ready to retire yet.

Pete