Using a block plane on the blank while spinning?

[Jim Becker]

I believe I'd just use the skew!

I think I'd rather get hit in the gut with a block plane than with the evil skew.. .

[Bill Boehme]

Visualize the problem like this:

• Case 1 - You are pushing a plane by hand to round a stationery barrel. You hit a knot and the whole process comes to a stop because you are supplying the power. Result is that you back up and start again and there is no chance of the plane getting caught in your gut.
• Case 2 - You are holding a plane steady while the barrel is being rotated by a powerful motor that is unlikely to stall. You hit the same knot and the barrel keeps on rotating while you are hanging onto the plane for dear life. You wonder where the plane went as you pick yourself up off the floor -- then you notice a cocobolo knob where your belly button ought to be. Mystery solved.

I am sure that there are ways to rig up some sort of captive jig for the plane -- but why bother unless you are a production turner.

Bill

[Gary DeWitt]

A plane is just a skew with a better controlled depth of cut.
The only advantage over a skew is if you are making a straight or tapered cylinder, it's easier to get it very straight. I've used a #5 for this, at slow speed, and it sounds scarier than it is in practice, but I only had use for this technique once, so planes are very limited in turning.

As far as knots go, I don't turn wood with knots in the first place.

[Bill Boehme]

My remarks were made a bit togue-in-cheek, but without taking some precaution to make sure that the plane is being held securely (in other words, not free hand) it could prove to be an exciting experience "knot or not".

Bill

[George Tokarev]

It would have been a long time for me with the skew, though a roughing gouge was used for initial rounding. My first encounter with that beast, actually. Old fellow I was working for knew it well. Had it not been for the length and need for a fair surface, there would have been no need for the plane, but with so short a reference as the gouge and a questionable "rest" to work with, there were lumps to be levelled.

Of course you want to rest any tool firmly, hold it less so. White knuckles are bad on a couple of levels. Though you may climb a bit over a knot even with a decent skew to the plane iron, no reason in the world for resorting to the ultimate, and releasing your cup of the tote. Most of the force encountered 15 degrees or so from TDC is out and away, where you aren't anyway.

[Ron Sardo]

The only people that I know who really tried using a plane on a lathe succeed launching it across the room.

[Lee DeRaud]

A plane is just a skew with a better controlled depth of cut.

And a bevel that's always rubbing.

A block plane doesn't really have enough "handle" for this, but anything bigger sounds reasonable.
(Assuming of course that I had a lathe big enough (and/or any desire) to turn porch posts or flagpoles. )

[Bob Opsitos]

So I did get chance to try is breifly yesterday while off fron work. Went with very little blade depth and a tight mouth and the lowest speed. Initially held against the rest but with the minimal blade stickout I found that I felt comfortable simply holding it. Worked at approximately a 45 skew.

Shavings were very similar to what you see from a skew. The peice I had was and end grain hollow form I have been working on so there was some curve to it. Seemed difficult to maintain the right contact to keep it cutting and any out of round to the blank, given the limited blade stickout, made cutting slow going. Where it did cut it left a very nice finish. Definietly for finishing, not hogging.

Since the blank I had up was not ideal, I think I'll give this another try next time I have a roughed down cylinder that I want straight.

Bob

[Carl Eyman]

I just saw an old one of these today on my messy bench. It was on how to turn a taper on the lathe using a block plane.

[jimmy conway]

I've actually seen this jig last summer. I was going through some of my grandfather's old things and ran across one of these.





Home renovations are easier than you think.

[ROBERT SCHUMAN]

Hello Bob

Several years ago I was running behind on some big fir columns, thirteen feet by two feet and I tried what you are talking about. I held the plane on the top of the turning at a slight angle and had good results set the blade low and experiment with the angles . I never had a catch but if you try hard enough I guess you could.

[ROBERT SCHUMAN]

www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45209&d=1156006350

See pic Rob.

Great idea.....lets try a router too.

I am with Keith. Whenever i try using the wrong tool for a job I usually end doing something stupid and hurting myself. For instance you wouldnt use a screw driver to carve nor use chisel to open a can of paint.

[Rob Bourgeois]

www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45209&d=1156006350

See pic Rob.

Thats completely different and you know it.

I was talking about a handheld router. If you are willing to hold a hand held router on a tool rest....you really need to have your head examined.

[ROBERT SCHUMAN]

Thats completely different and you know it.

I was talking about a handheld router. If you are willing to hold a hand held router on a tool rest....you really need to have your head examined.

Saw doctor ....he said head was full of wood chips.Normal for a wood worker.

:~)

[Jim Underwood]

Sounds as if there are techniques that will work and those that won't, just as with any tool. Looks like a bit of research will turn up the right techniques. Personally I'd use a skew instead, but then I'm comfortable with it now.

You can run into a lot of trouble with a skew or hollowing tool also if you don't know what you are doing.

How many of you have had disastrous catches when using either of these tools?

Show of hands?