Time to Build Some Shop Cabinets

[Bert Johansen]

I have used MDF on many cabinets, including my shop cabinets, and they are great so long as you understand their limitations. I make the cabinet bottoms out of 3/4 ply, and add melamine only to the top. After gluing the melamine to the top I edge the top with solid hardwood. I also pre-finish (paint) the MDF sides and back before assembly. I make drawers out of 1/2 birch ply and add a false drawer front made from the same hardwood I used to edge the top. I also add a front face frame of the same hardwood. Finally, I glue hardwood drawer guides to the inside and install full-extension slides. Here's a photo of my drill press cabinet. I used left-over jatoba for the hardwood.

[Travis Hirst]

I am looking at doing the same thing this weekend. I have a set of plans from american woodworker that uses 3/4 mdf for the cabinets. They lay out the plans in a way that you can get four cabinets out of just two sheets of mdf. They are plenty strong and very versital in that they can be hung or just used on the floor.

Travis

[James Carmichael]

Because I deal with some machining and metal work, which can be both heavy and oily, I've found MDF hasn't worked for me, plus it doesn't support much weight unless supported.
Liquids are not MDF's friend, and some seem to seep though even paint and that will ruin MDF, personally I use plywood now, for the garage I buy the $28 stuff at Menard's and it ain't pretty, but it works.
Plus a coat or two of paint makes it look a lot better....

Have the same opinion of particle board also.

Al

I'm with Al on the MDF, liquids always seem to find an unprotected spot, and then it looks like a tumor. Also hate the dust.

I'd bite the bullet and go with plywood, even if you do have to paint it, it's so much easier to work with. If durability is a concern, you can get hot-stick melamine veneer at Lowes (not sure about the price, though).

[John Hulett]

Sam,

Melamine is typically 49x97 (as opposed to the standard 48x96) and is oversized for a reason - the edges are usually chipped. The first time I made cabinets with melamine, the edges looked crummy because I just used the "factory" edge. Plan on trimming that outside edge of the sheet - you'll be happier in the end if you do

[Sam Chambers]

I second Dave's recommendation. One could purchase Mills Pride cabinets cheaper than buying, making and finishing your own.

I don't know about that, Jeff. I went by the Borg at lunch today. The typical Mills Pride base cabinet is in the $50-$60 range. 3/4" MDF is about $20/sheet. Melamine is about $25/sheet. The bargain basement plywood was about $28/sheet. It wouldn't take more than one sheet per cabinet, so it seems like it would be cheaper (though certainly not faster) to build my own.

Interestingly, the low-priced plywood was pretty flat, but the mid-level stuff ($35 or so) was already pre-formed into a nice, but uneven, curve. The stuff looked like a big rectangular Pringle! And the expensive oak plywood was almost as bad.

[Sam Chambers]

I am looking at doing the same thing this weekend. I have a set of plans from american woodworker that uses 3/4 mdf for the cabinets. They lay out the plans in a way that you can get four cabinets out of just two sheets of mdf. They are plenty strong and very versital in that they can be hung or just used on the floor.

Travis

I was looking at the same issue, Travis. I think I might need to make mine a bit deeper, though, and that would probably mess up the sheet layout.

[Travis Hirst]

Heres a link to some plans http://f.chtah.com/i/12/432869668/AW...p_Solution.pdf

See if that's what you might want.

Travis

[Sam Chambers]

Heres a link to some plans http://f.chtah.com/i/12/432869668/AW...p_Solution.pdf

See if that's what you might want.

Travis

Yep, that's the issue I have. I need to play with the layout a little to see if I can make them deeper.

[Tom Ricochet]

Sam,

If at all possible, I would recommend that you try to build your own cabinets - for all the reasons that Jim and others have mentioned. Also, I would discourage you from using particle board or MDF for any cabinet where you plan to install casters for mobility - a lot of extra stress is developed when rolling a loaded cabinet around. P/B and MDF are "tender" compared to plywood, and also probably should not be used if there is any chance of liquids coming into contact with them. Look around for a good supplier for plywood, if you can - I know there are many options in the Atlanta area - perhaps you can find one that would work for you.

[Kurt Strandberg]

I used plywood then made face frames and doors, then painted white

Did 3 on one wall and 2 on ther other wall

[Jim Bunton]

I used 3/4 melamine for my shop cabinets. I used dados and rabbets , glue and screws to hold it while it dried. I had salveged a board that was 13' long 23" wide and 3" thick I used that for the top. The cabinet is very stable.


Jim Bunton