Brad Point Bits - favorite

[Matt Lentzner]

Sorry for posting like a madman this first week. This site is such a god-send for me, I'm taking every advantage.

I need some brad-point drill bits, but I am having trouble finding out which ones are good. The DeWalt "pilot point" bits are all over at the big box, but I don't even know if these qualify as brad point bits. I have a Vermont American set in my "buy later" Amazon cart, but I really know nothing about them or the company.

Somebody please set me straight.

Thanks,

Matt

[Chuck Nickerson]

Those are the to three choices.

[Rick Schubert]

I agree with Chuck!

[David Rose]

Yep! Lee Valley's (best ones) are HSS, which means they are less likely to burn the fragile cutting edges. They are also very well ground. Those are not easy to sharpen, so it pays to use good ones. Also, pay close attention to the recommended speeds for the size bit. I burned a HSS bit with 150RPM too much speed with three 1/2" deep holes. It is easy to get lazy switching belts... at least for *some* of us.

They are more expensive than some, so I would buy a few known needed sizes, then add as needed, if you are on a budget. Last I checked, you could save some money on sets, if not.

Lee Valley will regrind them too, I think, when they dull.

David

[Brian Hale]

Lee Valley

Lee Valley

Lee Valley

Is there an echo in here?

Just go to their site and put one of each in your Wish List and then transfer them to the shopping cart as you need them or get 1-3 with each order. That way you won't have to keep running out to the shop to see what sizes you already have.

Brian

[Alfred Clem]

For some reason I cannot fathom, some of us think common items such as brad points are an area where the laws of quality are suspended. Indeed, you get what you pay for when it comes to durability and performance of these homely little hole-borers. Good ones last and last; los cheapos are just that -- made poorly of crummy materials that don't do their jobs. It took me quite a while to realize this elementary fact of woodworking economics. Yes, you can buy stuff cheaper -- and sometimes you get a real bargain. But I doubt it.

[Doug Shepard]

I've had a 13-pc set of imported carbide tipped brad points that a lot of places sell. They've worked well for me for quite a long time although drilling through some Ipe finally toasted a couple of them. I've had very poor luck with a couple bought at the big box stores. I'm not postive on the brand but think they were either Forest City or Vermont American. They sucked right out the package. Dull as dirt and wouldn't drill anything without burning. I'd take the others advice and try the LV's. I've never been disappointed with anything bought from them.

[Gary Herrmann]

I've got a set of LV brad points. I'd love to get the big set they sell some day. I also bought a brad point from WC, for pens. The brand is Wolf, I think. Pricey but a very good bit. Better even than the LV, I think. The flutes are amazingly sharp.

[Terry Kelly]

Amen to that brother.. I don't know how many times I've tried to explain that to some of my other WW'ing buddies. Kinda like trying to drive a paperclip into a piece hardwood....Haha... Oh yeah this is in response to Al Clem Above #6

[Per Swenson]

Is there an echo in here?


Brian

Echo?

Matt, as that real estate slogan goes,

There are three things you need to know about Brad Points.

Lee Valley, Lee Valley, Lee Valley.

Sorry Brian, I couldn't help it.

Per

[Gary Keedwell]

My wife bought me a set of brad point drills at the woodworking show in Springfield, Ma. They are made by W.L. Fuller, from Warwick, RI. They are the best brad point drills I have ever used. Better then LV, IMNSHO.
They even make two different drills. One for softwood and one for hardwood.
The drill that works best for softwood has rounded spurs,which help hold the grains of the wood down while sheering them off. The outlining spurs on brad point drills for hardwood come to a sharp point and simply cut the stronger grains off clean.
Both of these actions results in cleaner entry and exit holes. Most woodworkers would probably just buy the lipped (outlining) spurs since they are made for hardwoods.
A DISCLAIMER: I am just a customer and have no other affiliation with either company I mentioned.

Gary K.

[Bob Michaels]

Lee Valley. No question. I've got the full set, love 'em. End of story.

[Gary Keedwell]

Sounds more like a broken record then a "story"

[Doug Mason]

W.L. Fuller. Can be expensive--but good.

[Gary Keedwell]

W.L. Fuller. Can be expensive--but good.

Doug...I got the 11pc. set (1/8th--1") with stop collars, allen wrench and a real nice wooden box for around $90 at the show. Lee Valley has a 4 piece set (5/8 to 1") for $112 and 7- pc. set (1/8th-1/2) for $45.
That's $157 for a 11 pc. set from Lee Valley. I don't think that includes a box or the stop collars. Don't know what Fuller gets for regular price.(away from the show)
Gary K.