Green Woodworking / Log Bench

[John Schreiber]

My in-laws have put in an order for me to make an outdoor log bench for their cabin in Wisconsin. The design we decided on is below. I don't know anything about green woodworking or even about drilling a hole for a two inch tennon four inches deep.

I've got a contact with a tree service to get the log and I'll have them rough out the log. I figure I can shape the legs with a drawknife. How should I drill the holes in the log for the legs. I've got a brace I could use. I'm not sure my 3/8 drill could turn a 2" bit and getting the log to the drill press would be a challenge.

Could I use a Forstner bit? They seem to be less expensive than the other options.

LogBench (1015 x 757).jpg LogBenchLeg (508 x 378).jpg

[Jamie Buxton]

With a brace in green wood, I'd be looking for an auger bit. They have screw threads on the tip to help pull the bit into the wood. You might pose this question over in the Neanderthal section; drawknives and muscle-powered drills are right up their alley.

[Ben Grunow]

No neander methods from me but I have drill MANY holes in green stumps with the old Milwaukee Hole Hawg (promotes rot-easier than digging the stumps out) and an auger bit. I have a 3 1/2" bit that will break your arm when it catches a nail (used for rough plumbing). It takes a strong drill and operator but it works.

That said, a forstner would work fine if you get the bark out of the way with a chisel and make a flat spot for the bit to start. Maybe get one from HF if your set is worth too much to you.

[Ben Grunow]

Just looked at your name John. I have an old ratcheting handle for hand drilling (I think thats what it is) that you might be interested in!

[Tom Sontag]

... I figure I can shape the legs with a drawknife.

I presume this means you do not have a lathe? If not, it is time. You are welcome.

The challenge here is what happens as that tenon dries and shrinks. Hopefully someone with experience will tell us.

[John Schreiber]

Jamie, Yes an auger bit would be my first choice, but they cost close to $100 for a 2" size. I might get one from ebay though. They are sold as display pieces there.

Ben, Thanks for the thought. I've already got a good solid ratcheting brace which should give me plenty of torque and another Creeker PM'd me an offer of an adjustable bit for a gift price.

Tom, Since I posted I've been thinking and I think, that what I need to do is shave the tenons down to slightly above the size I am aiming at, then let them dry out and shrink. When I drill the holes in the log, it will still be relatively wet. I'll fit the tenons to the holes, then as the log gradually dries, it should grab those tenons tight as can be. You are right, no lathe. I am afraid of the abyss.