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Thread: Staining fir?

  1. #1

    Staining fir?

    We just got a new front door. We had planned to paint it, so got a paint grade fir. It looks pretty nice (no knots or blemishes really), so we were thinking we might just stain it. Does fir take stain well? Any tips?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    52
    try using a gel stain to prevent blotching due to differing densities in fir, which is similar to pine as far as staining goes

    - ken

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Orange Park, FL
    Posts
    1,118

    Fir Stain

    My wife and I built a mantle from fir. We used diluted hide glue to prep the surface. Let it dry 24 hours and lightly sand it. We could not believe how even the stain came out. The end grain was the same as the long grain. We have used the same method on pine with very good results.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the info. What about Waterlox on the fir, no stain? Would it still make it look blotchy? And if we did not like the look, can you paint over Waterlox?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
    Posts
    2,923
    Sure, you can paint over Waterlox, especially since you will find out about the blotching of Waterlox (I don't think it will be a problem) after the first coat and it will have mostly penetrated the fir. I would let it cure a couple of days (more if drying conditions aren't good) before painting.

    It will take quite a few coats of Waterlox (I assume Original/Sealer is the flavor that you have in mind) to build a smooth, protective coating since it will want to soak into the softer portions of the fir much more than the rest. Consquently you will have some heavy sanding to do after the first couple of coats, and likely after the next couple as well, to keep that from giving you a ridged coating that exaggerates the grain in the fir.

    I assume this is a sheltered door that doesn't catch direct sun. If it does get direct sunlight Waterlox is not the clear finish you want. Sun exposure calls for heavy lifting to keep a clear finish looking good. Your only hope would be a high quality marine grade spar varnish on the exterior. (This means the choice of Epifanes Gloss, Interlux Schooner, or Pettit Captain's. If you can buy it at a big box store, or if it isn't one of those three varnishes it isn't a good marine varnish.) In addition to needing about 6-8 coats of brush-on-strength varnish to begin with, you will also need to sand and recoat regularly--annually if in full sun all day, about every other year if you don't get sun all day long.

    Paint is much more long lived in sun--dramatically so.

    Also, remember that a door has 6 sides that need finishing.

  6. #6
    Good info, thanks. Sounds like we'll be painting It's a front door, some exposure but mostly shaded.

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