Critique TV Stand

[Jim Fox]

Sorry, if you have read this already on the other WW sites, but I wanna hit everyone possible.

Dimensions: 67.5"W x 22.5"D x 27"H

[Jim Fox]

Did an alternate door version too.

[Jim Dunn]

I think I like the 2nd one better. My preference is to deal with only one door at a time. Also that rail in between the other 2 doors will likely block an infared remote being used with the accessories in the cabinet.

[Jim Becker]

I "like" the doors on the first one better, but Jim has a good point on the IR remote situation. Good job on the drawings!

[Gary Breckenridge]

Either one is fine. But I'm a bit concerned with the glass doors. Everybody will see all the unartistic junk that is inside the cabinet. And when the tv is off there is this giant bland screen staring back at people.

[Luciano Burtini]

And when the tv is off there is this giant bland screen staring back at people.

T.V.'s can go off? Hmmmm maybe when the teenagers leave home? Oh yeah, they never leave!

BTW, I like the cabinet and am looking for a design myself. I may borrow from this if that's okay. I like it. I think I like the first doors better for balance, but both look good....

[Peter Lyon]

Put me down as another vote for door style #2.

[Nancy Laird]

Door #1 or Door #2? Sounds like a new version of "Let's Make a Deal." I like the doors on #1 - most of the infrared receivers are on one end of a unit or the other, so the center stiles shouldn't interfere.

Just MHO.

Nancy

[Bruce Page]

Jim, I like appearance of the first one better but I could see where the center stile could interfere with a sensor or just make it difficult to read the components.
One feature that I really like about my store bought lowboy was the cooling feature. In their design they simply raised the whole top about 5/16” above the cabinet using plastic bushings. You don’t notice the gap but it does an excellent job of letting the component heat escape.
Something to think about.

Is tha an XBR sitting on top of it?

[Joe Chritz]

Remote relays are pretty cheap now if the door style causes problems with the IR.

FWIW I like number 1 better.

Joe

[Brian Hale]

Overall design is good and either door style would work well.

I'd like something else to happen with the base though, it feels a bit too "wimpy" (not the best word to use but ...). Perhaps it could be set apart with a recessed groove that runs around the whole unit or maybe the outside corners need to sit a touch proud of the front surface. I think the frame and panel construction calls for something along those lines.

Can you add in details of how/where the individual pieces of wood will meet? Are they mitered corners at the top or do the pieces meet in a butt joint? Same with the door and drawer front details as this could really alter the overall appearance of the unit.

Brian

[Jim Fox]

Can you add in details of how/where the individual pieces of wood will meet? Are they mitered corners at the top or do the pieces meet in a butt joint? Same with the door and drawer front details as this could really alter the overall appearance of the unit.

Updated the original unit to have the face frame and rail/stile lines in them.

[Al Willits]

Number one looks nice to me.
Bruce brings up a good point of cooling, heat is not a HT's friend, and I like his idea of raising the top slightly, also might make the inside panels so air can move by them.
Each of my shelves have holes drilled for ventilation.

Al

[Brian Hale]

Thanks Jim

Yes, i think i'd like the 4 corner pieces (legs) to sit proud by an 1/8" or so on both the front and sides of the unit to add some shadows/texture. I'd also consider beveling the under side of the top. Maybe.

I assume the but joint technique will follow on the doors and drawers?

Don't mean to redesign your piece but i go through all the time with my pieces and often make only minor changes no one else would notice

Brian

[Jim Fox]

I assume the but joint technique will follow on the doors and drawers?

Yes, just didn't draw those in.