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Thread: Veneer advice needed ??

  1. #1
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    Veneer advice needed ??

    I was asked to obtain and apply some (probably figured walnut) veneer to an aluminum dash panel from a Cobra Kit-Car. I haven't worked with any veneer for a long time, and am seeking input/advice on how to tackle this project. Any & all input is most appreciated.

    thanx .. .. ..


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  2. #2
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    Hi Bob,

    I assume the dash panel is flat and the veneer will not have to be bent around any radiuses. That given, I would use contact cement. I never use contact cement for gluing veneer to other wood but, it works well when you have to glue it to metals and plastics.

  3. #3
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    It's basically flat, with a small (7") ear bent in slightly at each end. I'm assuming I'll need to roughen the aluminum and probably will use contact cement. Would I need to use a thin backer between the two .. .. maybe a door-skin material ?? or would I just glue the veneer right to the aluminum ??

    Also .. .. water-based or solvent-based contact cement ?? ?? I'm more concerned about getting a good bond here and since I'll only be doing it one time, I'm not too worried about brain-trying chemical vapors.

  4. #4
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    I would suggest using a backed veneer. A 10 mil paper back will be fairly flexible and fit curves, however, if your curves aren't that much then a 20 mil backing is also available. Make sure the aluminum is clean, really clean. I'd also suggest sanding it to get better glue adhesion. I'd use solvent based contact cement, I think it brushes better, and may take the car environment better.

    What do you plan to use for finishing the veneer?
    Feel the wind and set yourself a bolder course

  5. #5
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    Hi Bob,

    If it were me, I would use whatever contact cement you have available but, if you have to buy some I would go with solvent based. While I haven't had a problem with bleed through with the few situations using contact cement it has alwasy been with a dark veneer and it would depend on the finish you plan to put on the veneer. I have done one dash panel and it was for a old Mercedes. I used Watco on it but, if you want the deep gloss finish usually found on wooden dash pieces be warned, they are difficult. The best way would be to fill the pores of the veneer with a pore filler paste (I like Constantines), followed by sanding to 320, followed by sealer and then multiple coats of lacquer. Finally, you will have to rub out the finish after the lacquer has thoroughly cured. Best of luck.

  6. #6
    The dash will expand and contract, as will the veneer, but at different times for different reasons, at differing rates. Contact cement will creep in the heat, and fail.

    Given the rough environment (heat, cold, moisture, sun) I'd make a panel to fit (cerf and curve if needed) and veneer that. See if you can get the dash out of the car for this. Attach your panel to the dash with hidden fastners from behind. This will allow the panel to 'float'.

    Failure is an absolutely predictable event if you glue wood to metal, then heat it.
    "I love the smell of sawdust in the morning".
    Robert Duval in "Apileachips Now". - almost.


    Laserpro Spirit 60W laser, Corel X3
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  7. #7
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    I hope you can get the panel out of the car and on to your bench. If you can't get it out, you have to use contact cement. In my unhappy experience, contact cement doesn't hold wood veneer very well. Furthermore, if you can't get the panel out of the car, you're going to have to sand and varnish the veneer in the car, and that will be no fun at all.

    If you can get the panel out of the car, I'd suggest epoxy. It bonds well to wood and to metal. Make sure the aluminum is clean; I'd hit it with the ROS just to make sure. Don't use the thickened epoxy from a tube. Use the kind of epoxy intended for fiberglassing. It is more fluid. West Systems and System Three make this kind. You can get it at marine-supply places, and Woodcraft sells one or the other. Me, I'd use a vacuum bag to apply the veneer; there's no clamp system anywhere near as good. If you don't have access to a vacuum bag, use a somewhat flexible caul and lots of clamps.

  8. #8
    Bob, just noticed that you live in an area I plan to retire to. How's the weather 'n stuff?
    "I love the smell of sawdust in the morning".
    Robert Duval in "Apileachips Now". - almost.


    Laserpro Spirit 60W laser, Corel X3
    Missionfurnishings, Mitchell Andrus Studios, NC

  9. #9
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    The weather here is one of the biggest reasons we came this way .. .. .. this time of year, it's already well into the upper 60's to lower 70's and cooler overnight. Summers get pretty hot & humid, but that's when I hibernate into the a.c.

    Back to the dash panel .. .. .. it has not yet been installed in the car, so access is not a problem at all. The whole panel is a piece if aluminum about 8" X60" or so. I plan to finish it before installing it, and we are now in the wiring stages of the build, so I figured it's time to get going on the dash. I plan on using some mildy figured walnut, finished with a coat or two of Watco to bring out the grain & color, seal the pores with a tinted filler, and finish off with several coats of Mohawk pre-cat lacquer. I don't particularly care if I don't get a "piano" finish, just want it to look respactable and last a good long time. Anybody see any flaws in this plan ?? ?? ??

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