Oh No. Rust!

[Eddie Darby]

Buy some more Boeshield T-9.

I soak heavily rusted parts in Boeshield and the rust is removed nicely. I then buff out the Boeshield and put on a coat of Top Coat, and buff that out. This is the best rust removal/prevention that I have run across.

[Craig D Peltier]

I just used some mineral spirits and grade #0000 steel wool.It cleaned up nice with little effort.Off to get paste this afternoon.
Thanks

[glenn bradley]

On the subject of paste was; my dad picked up some wax at my suggestion but got floor wax . . . it was a paste but with a 'non-slip' additive. This was the opposite effect we were after. Plain old Johnson's paste wax will do ya.

[Michael Marcinelli]

isn't there a concern over getting wax on the wood you process, especially if it's finish pieces?

[Brian Weick]

I just use simple paste wax...it happens to be Minwax brand 'cause it's been in the cabinet for years. If I were buying new, I'd likely use S C Johnson paste wax. I've not found a need for anything else and re-apply about twice a year. I've never had rust to-date.

I agree with jim. I use this on all my exposed metal parts on my machinery , heat it up just enough so the wax melts as I rub- then polish- it works very well!

[Brian Weick]

you don't leave it on field surfaces - work it in wipe it down-polish and your as good as new- I have never had run off onto wood.
Brian

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Does Turtle Car Wax, have silicone in it?

Yah it sure does. Most all of 'em do.

What to use:
Wax. Plain old Butchers or Jonsons wax will do.

I bought a can of that Rennisanse wax. Oh Boy I was going to have the bestest stuff ~!!
All it is - seriously - all that stuff is is some solvent, microcrystaline wax and mostly parrifin. I was surprised.. I make my wood drawers slide like crazy by heating parrifin till it melts and putting enough mineral spirits in till I get a nice semi paste consistency when cool. I apply it hot to get it to penetrate some.
Once some years back I got a chunk of Microcrystaline wax as an industrial sample and that stuff was Da Bomb.

[Greg Cole]

In the mid west the humidity can be as high as the temperature in the summer... 90's +. After accumulating some cast iron in the shop I also placed a dehumidifier in there as well.... no chances taken.
And paste wax for the extra protection and "slide-a-bility".

Greg

[Ted Miller]

I use Teflon Car wax, lasts a long time no matter what type of wood you are passing over and will not affect finish, stay away from spray on car wax since it will have silicone in it. For rust try scotch brites, green,red or white depending on the amount of rust with some brasso, then apply teflon wax. Steel wool is a drag since pieces will fall into cracks and then rust...

[Greg Ladd]

Another Boeshield T-9 fan here. One of the woodworking magazines had a test of various surface treatments awhile back. I believe that the Boeshield T-9 product was by far the superior product in regards to rust prevention by a large margin. Maybe someone else can remember where that article was.

I have used T-9 for over 10 years and had never had any rust other than when my wife over filled the tub in the master bath, which is directly above my basement shop. Free standing water on cast iron doesn't work well, especially when it lays there for a few days. She didn't think I needed to know about a little water as 'she cleaned up all of the water on bathroom floor.'

I have also had my basement flood with a couple inches of water and have yet to get even a hint of rust on any of my T-9 protected surfaces.

I put some on every year or two. Once in awhile I rub some wax paper across the tops just too make everything real slick. Cheap, easy and real fast.

Greg

[Ed Frie]

What they all said.

Just wondering, if you are like me, my shop has a slab concrete floor that, like any garage floor, will sweat like the dickens in spring, although I have never seen a dickens before, much less one perspiring.

I put down heavy plastic, 2x4 sleepers on their side, rigid foam in between and 3/4 T&G plywood screwed down. I insulated the walls and vapor barriered them. A day's project for each stage. In 5 years, the shop is dry as dust no matter what time of the year and no rust, even when the temp is allowed to drop below zero between visits to the work out there.

I'm just saying.

[Kurt Forbes]

we really need a sticky thread.
it could be sticky because of all of the rust.
I think I will search through the last 6 times I have posted about rust removial here liveing on salt water and just repost that.

[Jeff Kerr]

This has been a great thread.

I asked the LOML to pick up a tin of Johnson's Paste Wax when she went to the grocery this week and low and behold our local kroger didn't have any.

I checked SC Johnson's website and they list it as a product that is "hard to find" (their words) and that I can order it in bulk.

Thought that was kinda funny.

[Roy Harding]

I just use parafin wax. You can get it in the grocery store.

The wax is more for "slidability" than anything else - but I've never had a rust problem - and I live and work in the Coastal Rain Forest of British Columbia (LOTs of moisture here!)

[Ed Kilburn]

I use Topcote for the sliding action, but it failed to keep my machines from rust. Now I have a major job of cleaning everything up. Other years I used spray on grease, and cleaned it in the spring, as my shop isn't heated. From this thread it looks like Johnson's Paste Wax is the ticket. BTW I found it on ACE Hardware site. http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1420111