Using Maple and birch together

[Carson Saunders]

I've been lurking on here for a few months now...just absorbing as much information as I can. Now the time has come to actually make something.

My first project will be a combination entertainment center/toy storage for the kids playroom. Nothing fancy, just some basic case contruction with plywood using hardwood for the frame overlay. The piece will be stained with a light stain in order to fit in with the general theme of the room (nothing painted). That said, it will be a piece for usage by the kids, so it won't be anything fancy...it will most likely take a beating.

So on to my question. I plan on buying my birch plywood from a big box store simply for cost reasons (based upon the type of piece I am making and that its my first project). That said, the box store doesn't have birch hardwood for the frame overlay but they do have maple. Can I use these two woods together on this piece or will the differences be very obvious come finishing time?

I still may pay the extra few bucks and just get all birch from a building supply place nearby but I thought I would gather as many options as possible before deciding my exact course of action.

Thanks to all for your informaiton.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

My experience staining birch leaves me with bad memories.

Staining birch may result in blotching. I've tried pre-stain conditioners and gel stains, but the results were not to my full satisfaction. Using a spray gun, as most commercial applications do, would probably yield the most uniform coloration but I've never done this.

However, maple stains pretty well, but resists dark stains from reaching their full color as shown on the can.

Since your question really pertains to finishing, I recommend you re-post in the finishing forum for a more thorough answer.

-Jeff

[Joe Chritz]

Sometimes it is very obvious and sometimes it is very hard to tell them apart.

My kitchen is made with plywood with one birch face and one maple. The birch that is light was nearly impossible for me to tell the difference.

It is hard to find good clear birch ply that is all light.

Have you thought about sourcing maple plywood?

Joe

[Carson Saunders]

Joe, I have looke at maple plywood. The cost is about $25 extra per sheet, which is what got me headed down my present path. Given the current consensus of sketchy results, I my have to go with the maple despite the extra cost.

To Jeffrey's point, could a mod please move this post into the finishing forum. I'll double post if necessary, but I'd prefer to avoid it. Thanks.

[glenn bradley]

The woods you mention and the mixing of the two can be a bit unpredictable but I have had success using the following protocol:

• Sand to 220.
• BLO all parts.
• Wait about a week for the oil to stop seeping and dry; wipe down daily or more often if you're nearby.
• Sand off any fuzzys; I used 400.
• Stain to taste.
• Seal with your choice of topcoat.

Depending on the finish desired you may find the BLO to give you the color you're after without additional stain. If you stain the BLO will minimize the blotchy-ness (is that a word?). A good way to tell BLO is 'done' is the smell is nearly gone. Your stain and topcoat will have to be compatible with the BLO. Others here or on the finish forum can probably help but I used an oil based stain.

[Stephen Clem]

I'm sorry, what is BLO? I'm about to finish a Choice Pine Bookcase. I was planning on not staining it. Maybe just using General Finishes Seal-A-Cell + Arm-R-Seal Topcoat.

[Andrew Williams]

Boiled Linseed Oil

[Bryan Somers]

Carson I may be a little late in here but here's a couple of pics of a shop project in progress where I'm using maple to trim the face of a planer stand made with birch ply.

planer stand 011edit.jpg planer stand 009 edit.jpg

This hopefully will give you a feel for what they look like together with no finish. While I am fairly inexperienced with the finishing process different woods do not absorb stain the same. Also if you look close at the lower right of the cabinet in the 2nd pic you will see a chip caused from a void in the ply which is one of the reasons why most here (I am now one of them) do not recomend using ply from the big box stores. After seeing the difference between ply from a good lumber supplier and the borg, no more borg ply for me.