[OP]
Member
I'm on an "adjustment kick" and an trying to adjust my bandsaw wheels to make them co-planer.
My lower wheel is about 1/4" "behind" the upper wheel so I want to shim the lower wheel.
I've removed the retaining bolt on the lower wheel but have come to a roadblock.
The wheel doesn't come off easily and I don't want to force anything.
Anyone know how this wheel is supposed to come off?
thanks,
Jeff
[OP]
Member
I figured it out.
Member
So, you're going to leave me hanging?????
[OP]
Member
Just used a large screwdrive to "lever" the wheel off.
I was careful to lever against the hub of the wheel and not against the bearing.
Just levered very easily and the wheel slid off.
jeff
Member
So you got the lower wheel off and then did what to make it co-planer? I'm curious because I've put this off myself.
Member
How old is this bandsaw ? There is no way a Powermatic leaves the factory with the wheels out that much.
[OP]
Member
I just shimmed the wheel with a washer from my local hardware store.
The saw is only a couple months old but I put a riser block on it and that seems to have caused the wheels to go "out".
jeff
Member
My PM had the same coplanar issues without the riser. There are well-documented problems with the riser blocks that made the problem worse. I was advised by WMH and local saw tech service folks not to remove and shim the lower wheel. Did they advise you differently?
At least some of these saws have the alignment problems right out of the box.
A little more info...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=55152
[OP]
Member
I had read those other threads and decided to shim it without their input.
Member
This is what I call "remanufacturing" a new product.
There are products available that don't need such personal attention, but it boils down to whether you want to do-it-yourself, or pay up front for someone who cares to do it for you.
For a band saw, I would go for the do-it-yourself method.
Did you get a chance to check the wheels for run-out?
Also with a blade tensioned up, check that the upper guide tracks true, i.e., doesn't need to be adjusted whether all the way up or all the way down.
My experience is that even an inexpensive band saw can be made to cut true and straight, maybe even better than the ones the big boys use.
Loren
[OP]
Member
I did check the wheels but with no blade (no tension).
Measured on the face of the rim the top wheel is .004" and the bottom wheel was about .013".
Jeff
Member
Can someone explain "run-out"?
Member
Kent, The only person on that thread who complains about their wheels not being coplanar is you, riser block issues notwithstanding. That is not to suggest that I don't believe you, but I believe it would be the exception rather than the rule for a Powermatic product to be that far out on leaving the factory. Adding a riser block may well create a whole new set of issues, and apparently PM did have problems with them, but "alignment problems right out of the box" seems to be rare.Originally Posted by Kent Novick
Member
Ken,
Yes, those problems may be, and hopefully are, rare. That is why I mentioned that maybe I just had some bad luck. All combinations of 2 upper arms, 3 riser blocks and one base (WMH ruled out the base as an issue) that I had could not be made to work by some very experienced technical folks sent over by WMH.
I'm just trying to relate my experience with the product. I'm sure that others have had very positive ones.
Member
No problem, I just thought that there was a tone of "widespread problem", and after the issues you had, I can understand your concern.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote