Waterlox finish sanding

[Frank Martin]

I am working on a small cherry side table, a bench with shoe storage, and a mirror frame for our entry. So far I have applied a light coat of dewaxed shellac, sanded, and then applied 3 coats of Waterlox with no sanding between the coats. Now, I would like to sand it, apply the final coat of Waterlox and then buff it.

For sanding, I want to use power sanders if I am equipped with the right sandpaper.
I have Festool sanders (3mm orbit 6" and the Rotex) and Brillant paper up to 320 grit and Mirka Abranet abrasives at 400, 600, and up grits. Purely from a grit perspective Mirka Abranet 400 grit sounds reasonable but I am not sure if I need stereate sanding discs instead (is it Festool Titan?) to prevent clogging.
I assume I should reduce the sander speed when sanding finishes to avoid melting of the finish.

What would be your recommended approach, something that worked in the past?

[terry hansen]

this probably should be in the finishing forum - but one technique I often use at final prep is to use automotive wet sandpaper (the 3M black stuff) 400 then 600 or 800 and a sanding block to hand sand with water, and finish off with wax, this seems to help develop a super smooth finish. Power sanding takes too much off too fast for me.

[Harley Lewis]

Frank, I agree with Terry, a power sander takes off to much material. For what its worth, I use 00000 steel wool lubricated with mineral spirits prior to the last coat. If I want to put on paste wax I use steel wool for that application as well and then buff it.

[Howard Acheson]

Finish and between coat sanding are always done by hand. Any mechanical sander is too agressive.

Waterlox is a brand name of a family of finishing products. Which one are you referring to?

[Frank Martin]

Thanks for the responses, looks like I will have to resort to hand sanding. I hate it, but in this case sounds like I am out of options. For some reason, I remember reading somewhere power sanding between coats, but sounds like my recollection is not correct, or at least not the best practice

Howard, the finish is Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish.

I will do wet sanding with mineral spirits using 400 then 600 followed by 800 grit paper based on your responses.

For the final buffing, I was planning on using Mirka Abralon products with paraffin oil as suggested by J. Jewitt. Please do let me know if you any suggestions on this as well.

[Steve Schoene]

I think power sanding between coats is generally very risky, but with a wipe on finish, it's positively hazardous and not recommended. Three coats is about equivalent to one coat of brushed on varnish. Original/sealer isn't intended for a high gloss finish, though when fully cured it will buff out pretty well. If you want a true high gloss, you would be better off with a final coat of the Waterlox Gloss. It also has higher solids content than the Original/Sealer and can be brushed on to give a thicker film to buff. For best rubbing out give the finish about a month to get really hard as the cure becomes more complete.

[Frank Martin]

Steve,

I understand the "risky" part, but when it is dry sanded with dust collection, why do you think it is "positively hazardous"?

I think power sanding between coats is generally very risky, but with a wipe on finish, it's positively hazardous and not recommended. Three coats is about equivalent to one coat of brushed on varnish. Original/sealer isn't intended for a high gloss finish, though when fully cured it will buff out pretty well. If you want a true high gloss, you would be better off with a final coat of the Waterlox Gloss. It also has higher solids content than the Original/Sealer and can be brushed on to give a thicker film to buff. For best rubbing out give the finish about a month to get really hard as the cure becomes more complete.

[Howard Acheson]

>>Howard, the finish is Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish

The Original Sealer/Finish is quite oil heavy and therefore quite soft. It's not the best choice if you plan to do any work on the finish after the final coat. I agree with Steve than a couple of coats of Original Gloss will give you a finish that, once fully cured, can be sanded and buffed. Let the finish fully cure for 3-4 weeks.

[Steve Schoene]

Only that the there is a much larger risk of cutting through the layers and messing up the finish--not a health hazard. Sorry if my word choice was misleading.

[Frank Martin]

This was the first time I used Waterlox and really like the results so far. However, I did not realize the Original Sealer/Finish was softer and the Original Gloss was harder. I will keep this in mind. Thanks so much for the tips.

>>Howard, the finish is Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish

The Original Sealer/Finish is quite oil heavy and therefore quite soft. It's not the best choice if you plan to do any work on the finish after the final coat. I agree with Steve than a couple of coats of Original Gloss will give you a finish that, once fully cured, can be sanded and buffed. Let the finish fully cure for 3-4 weeks.

[Frank Martin]

Steve,

Thanks for the clarification. I am so sensitive to the health and safety aspect of it I thought you meant that.

Only that the there is a much larger risk of cutting through the layers and messing up the finish--not a health hazard. Sorry if my word choice was misleading.