Thoughts on Shop Design

[Larry Nall]

Hello Everyone:
I ran across the SMC website while Googling for ideas on shop design a few weeks ago. I’m really enjoying the site and have been lurking about since then.

I am in the midst of building my first stand alone shop. The foundation is poured, the walls are framed and sheathed, the trusses are here and we’re setting them now. I’m well along but obviously have a ways to go yet. I’ve got my ideas on the layout and finishing but wanted to partake of your experiences, as well.

The basic design is this, 26’ x 34’ with 10’ walls. Construction is all 2x4 on 2’ centers, sheathed with CDX. It’s wind certified to 140mph, so pretty much every joint has hurricane strapping. Exterior siding will be HardiePlank, roof will be asphalt shingles. The South wall (26’) has the entrance door left of center and a 9’w x 8’h double barn door right of center. There is a ramp to the barn door so a vehicle can be pulled into the shop.

Along the left side (West wall – 34’) will be the miter bench, which will hold the CMS, the radial arm saw and a bench top drill press.

At the back of that wall in the corner will be a 6’ x 8’ storage room full of shelves that will hold the hand power tools, supplies, jigs, etc. There will be no paints or solvents inside, there is an outside shed for that. Against the outside wall of the storage room will be my bench with peg board above for the hand tools.

In the center of the rear wall (North) will be a 30” belt driven fan with louvered vent, which should create a nice breeze.

In the right rear corner of the shop will be the painting booth. I don’t want to waste space on a rigid walled room. I am thinking of hanging a plastic curtain on a rail much like a shower curtain.

Heading South along the right wall (East) will be an open area where most of the large power tools will park. All will be on casters so they can be moved and parked in whatever configuration I choose for a given project.

Just inside the barn door to the right (East wall) will be the lumber rack, 5’ x 9’ shelves with a 2’ spacing from floor to ceiling. The positioning is such that lumber can be loaded straight off the truck to the rack.

The table saw will sit just front of center with a minimum of 10’ clearance on all sides. It’s the only immobile thing in the shop.

I am limited to a 60a subpanel for power supply, 1 – 220 v circuit for the saw, 1 - 110 v circuit for the compressor, 1 for the fan, 2 for the plugs, 2 for the lighting. Lighting will be 8 – 4’ two bulb fluorescents in two rows.

There is no internal plumbing, but there is a hose bib just outside the entrance.

I haven’t included a dust collection system. Initially I will do that with a portable machine. I may retrofit later.

That’s the basics, any feedback you have will be appreciated. Specifically I am wondering:

- Should I paint the concrete floor or leave it unfinished. If paint, is epoxy the thing?

- I am considering not finishing the interior. This in north Florida so I don’t need the insulation. It’s also under a heavy canopy of mature oaks, so it should be relatively cool, at least by Florida standards. Should I decide to finish the interior, what would you recommend for the walls and ceiling? Sheathing would probably be the cheapest for the walls and esthetics isn’t a big concern. Either way, I’ll paint the interior white.

- Has anyone tried the shower curtain approach to a painting booth?

- Will eight 2 bulb 4’ florescent fixtures provide adequate lighting?

- Am I making a mistake by not going with a permanent dust control system?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Larry Nall
Sopchoppy, Florida

[J.R. Rutter]

Welcome Larry. Sounds like a nice spac!. What are you going to be making in there? Your goals for near term and long term projects would help determine some answers.

In my shop, the lumber gets stored so that it is a few steps to either the chop saw or table saw for breaking down boards into component parts. My space dictates that things flow counterclockwise from the overhead door, which is also on the right half of the short wall.

I love having central DC, but a largeish portable like the newer Deltas with some 4" and 5" hoses would do the job nicely until things settle in to the point where you can commit to a layout.

I would go with more light fixtures unless you have a lot of windows.

For your paint area, are you concerned about containing overspray, or excluding dust and/or channeling exhaust? Curtain should be fine for the former, but a folding partition would be better for the latter.

[Ryan Myers]

I'll make the first response. Welcome. Your shop plans sound great. I am very jealous as I would kill for a dedicated shop space. I've taken over a 2 stall garage now.

I am an electrician so I'll make a couple of recommendations about the electrical.

60A service will be fine as long as your not planning on running more than two large items at once. You'll be limited on the 240v stuff to a 3 HP saw and a 5 HP dust collector running simulatenously or vice versa, no more than 8 HP total.

As for the lighting, you'll need more lights for a satisfactory level of lighting in that large of a space. I would step up to 3 rows of lights minimum and four rows if you can afford it. It is much easier to install the right number initially then to have to go back and add them later.

I think epoxy on the floor combined with sawdust may make for a very slick surface. I have thought about doing this too. IMHO, I would put plywood up on the interior. Reasons -for hanging/organizing tools and also for less places for the sawdust to settle into. I would strongly consider a good DC system. It always easy to spend other people's money. Everyone has their own priorities and budget that they must consider.

Did I mention that I am jealous?

[Jim Becker]

Consider air flow if you're not going to insulate and air condition the space...the latter being tough with your electrical restrictions. You need windows that will provide for that air flow as well as natural light. A combination of a few at "normal" height and some that are higher up on the walls so they do their job without compromising wall space for cabinets will likely be a good idea. Be sure you also have some kind of roof venting to let hot air rise, too.

[Tommy Emmons]

If you are not going to condition the space, I would recommend that you get some foil faced styrofoam sheets and attach them, foil face up, to the bottom of the roof. Leave a 1 foot gap at the top and bottom to let the air circulate up the roof to the apex of the roof. Ventilate the roof to allow the hot air to escape. The foil acts as a radiant barrier to the radiant heat that will be entering the shop due to the asphault shingles soaking up the sun's radiant heat. In my experience this helps tremendously. JMHO. I hope your shop turns out great.

[Michael McCoy]

Having just moved from north Florida, you might be pleasantly surprised how insulation (even a little) can turn a space that you can barely stand in the summer to a fairly pleasant environment.

[Sammy Shuford]

Shower curtains is a good idea.

Right now, I'm in a 2 car shop. I move the DC, Jointer, and plainer of of one corner, and hang tarps, an blower draws vapors out the door behind on of the tarps.

Works Fine for me.

Congrats on a "Shop" shop!

[Brian Dormer]

Paint the floor by all means. The Epoxy stuff is the best solution - but standard "concrete floor" paint works too - it just doesn't stand up to as much abuse. If money is tight - do the floor paint. If you've got money to burn - go Epoxy.

I'll echo what's been written about a DC. You should have SOMETHING. That big fan is nice, but this is your lungs we are talking about protecting. Make sure you put a 1 micron (.3 micron is even better) bag on whatever you use - OR put it in a shed outside (will keep the noise down).

Uninsulated in Florida? If you don't intend to work during the summer - you'll do fine. But someday you will want some A/C and you'll be glad you insulated now (while it's easy).

[Ron Blaise]

And since you are not planning to air condition I would at least install a good dehumidifier, and I would insulate. If you don't there is going to be a significant difference in the humidity between house and shop and it will cause problems with items you build to go into your house, especially furniture. If you can't keep the atmosphere in your shop at 50% or less relative humidity, look for shrinkage and warping conditions later on finished goods. Also if you don't insulate your shop, you won't be able to control humidity, even with a dehumidifier. Not trying to be a wise guy, I am speaking from some bad experience's when I first started. Just didn't realise how much wood will move till I experienced myself.

[Larry Nall]

Great comments everyone!

Please keep them coming. This exactly what I was hoping for.

I will definately add the third row of lights.
Foil backed insulation for the roof sounds good as well.

Would a metal roof be cooler than shingles. I've done a number of shingle roofs but never metal. Any thought on the difficultly. This is mostly a one man job.

Plywood interior walls were what I was thinging. Anyone have thoughts on the ceiling?

I was thinking a small dehumidifier might be necessary.

I will have a half dozen small windows (2'x3').

The shop will be used mostly for furniture for myself, family and friends, at least initially. I'll be retiring in a few years. I'm thinking that buying and restoring some 'handyman special' homes might keep me busy and out of trouble. My guess is that I would do some cabinet work then.

The biggest reason for the shop is to get out of the garage. SWMBO is not fond of tool noise and dust. The shop is 100 yards down a trail out into the woods.

Keep the great comments coming.

Thanks

Larry

[Roy Harding]

I don't know what prices are like in your area, but I found that OSB (Oriented Strand Board) was a much cheaper alternative to plywood for the walls.

I agree with some type of "wood derivative" alternative to drywall - the flexibility of being able to hang just about anything just about anywhere is well worth the added cost.

Have fun - I start the construction of my shop soon - gotta wait for the snow to be gone before I can get the concrete poured!

Best of luck to you.


Roy

[Bryan Somers]

Larry you may want to consider a couple of skylights on the roof if your ceiling will be open they bring lots of extra light and the best part sunlight is free. When I have to reshingle my shop ther will be a few added.

I agree with Ron on the humidity issue with an uninsulated non heated or no AC in the shop. As far as metal vs shingle roof I cant comment but a light colored shingle should help keep heat from building up.