What a Pain

[Dave Malen]

Changing out the blades in my DJ - 20. 4 out of 12 of the screws that hold the blades tight were so tight that my wrench (10mm) slipped off. I tried liquid wrench, wd40 to no avail. Finally I took my dremel and cut the heads off. Then ordered replacements from Delta. Good thing I don't do this too often. Those people at the factory really torqued them.

Dave

[Jim Becker]

Hmm...maybe a quick change knife system is in your future??

[Ben Grunow]

Sounds like time for some penetrating oil and an 8 point 10 mm socket with impact gun (before the dremel next time). Maybe a little heat would help too, with ice on the blade. Just some thoughts.

[Dave Malen]

sounds good Jim ... now if I could just convince SWMBO . Actually now that I'll be tightening the screws next time won't be a problem.

Ben - Don't think there's room to fit an eight point wrench in.

At least I didn't cut myself

Dave

[Mitchell Andrus]

A quick pass with a torch, then a spritz on the bolt with some Freon does the job - 'cept you can't get THAT anymore, either.

[Greg Cole]

I've always had good luck with "PB Blaster".
Have to admit it is the only product I can say I own with the "as seen on TV" logo on it....
Or a little heat always helps if you think the factory might have used some sort of thread lock on the fasteners.

Greg

[Bruce Benjamin]

I was just going to suggest this same product. This stuff is the best I've ever found for loosening threads. A neighbor of mine who restores antique cars told me about it several years ago. Nobody knows more about stuck bolts than old car guys and old WW machinery guys. With the, "As seen on TV" logo it does seem a bit like a gimmick but you'll see it in more mechanic shops than just about any other product. The trick is to use it before you damage the bolt head though. I still haven't got into that habit.

Another thing that will sometimes help is to give the bolt or screw head a good rap with a hammer. That will sometimes loosen it up just enough, especially when combined with PB Blaster. If it can't be reached with a hammer by itself you can put a nut in a socket on an extension so it will bottom out on the bolt head or use a screw driver on a screw head.

Bruce

I've always had good luck with "PB Blaster".
Have to admit it is the only product I can say I own with the "as seen on TV" logo on it....
Or a little heat always helps if you think the factory might have used some sort of thread lock on the fasteners.

Greg

[Ted Miller]

Its always a good idea to tap the bolt or nut with a hammer after you spray any type of lubricant to make a vibration to get the lubricant into the threads to help loosen the two...

[Richard Bistline]

I learned this trick from an old diesel mechanic. Apply some heat to the screws and hold a bar of parafin on the screw. Let the screw cool somewhat to draw the parafin down into the threads. Then loosen the screw.

He used this method to loosen manifold bolts. It is the best thing I have ever used. Try it a second time if the first time doesn't quite get the job done.

Best of luck.

[Garth Hulley]

Dave, if you were using the 10 mm wrench that Delta provides with the DJ-20, that might be the problem. I had a similar problem that was solved just by throwing away the Delta wrench and using a better quality wrench. The Delta wrench was larger than 10 mm and the faces were not parallel. This wrench was guaranteed to slip.
garth

[Brian Dormer]

Just a wild guess - Was this the first time (since purchase) that you took out the knives?

I always check the bolts in brand new equipment - I've found they are usually torqued down by a gorilla. I loosten the bolts using an appropriate bit (usually allen hex) held in a socket on a big ratchet wrench. The cheap allen keys that ship with most equipment are prone to caming out and that usually chews up the bit and the bolt - so I rarely use them.

Getting a bit solidly in the hole and applying enough torque to move the bolt on the first try is of paramount importance. Any cam out is likely to chew up the head of the bolt. Once I've got the bit seated - I apply firm, even pressure, increasing until the bolt "gives" (it generally takes a surprising amount of force). Usually, there is a good "pop" and often a spark when the bolt gives.

Once I have a bolt loose, I tighten the bolt back to "reasonable" force.

Many times, this procedure requires resetting the blades, but I would have checked the blade alignment anyway - so it's not that much more work. And it's good to know what you are doing with a clean machine - the next time you adjust it - it's going to be dusty and dirty.

This procedure has saved me lots of agrivation.

[Dennis Peacock]

Wow.....if the bolts are that tight? They are too tight!!!! I agree with Brian, to check the bolts of a new machine, especially if they will need to be loosened by you in future cases.

[Dave Malen]

thread and keep it in my shop. Some great information on getting those little buggers loose. I was thinking of putting some heat on the threads, but I don't have a pinpoint torch to use. That pb stuff sounds good and also that heat and paraffin method is something to try.

Garth - I did use a good 10 mm wrench. The bolts that did come loose seemed to pop when they gave. As Brian said they must have been torqued by an 800 pound gorilla at the factory.

Brian - your right This was the first time I tried to loosen them. Several years ago I tried and did not persist. However this time I didn't have a choice as the blades were really dull.

Great info guys,
Thanks,
Dave

[robert cohen]

Did someone say Shelix?

[Jim Becker]

Dave, did you happen to put a length of pipe over your wrench to make it longer while you were trying to loosen the "over torqued" bolts?? Think leverage if you didn't...