Question for you built-in builders

[Chris Jenkins]

I'm gearing up to build some closet built in shelving and dresser. My question is:

Is it necessary to cut out the carpet?

I was thinking if I ancor into the studs on the back wall I wouldn't have to worry about things tipping.

Here is a mock-up of what I plan on putting in. Right now the whole closet is equipped with the standard wire junk.

You'll notice their is a piece of the wall that comes out from the rest. This is the framing around the stink pipe and radon pipe that exit the top of the house. I planned on putting a shoe closet between the two walls there.

closet.jpg

I plan on putting a rod above the dresser (thought I would put in a mirror here for the wife, but she said no). Also I plan on mounting a lower rod and upper rod on the end piece to double the space.

Of coarse I am open to suggestions if anyone has some cool improvements.

Thanks,

Chris

[Jamie Buxton]

If you're going to tie cabinets to the wall and such, you should remove the carpet before. There's two reasons. First, if you ever want to change the carpet, you're in trouble. Second, the carpet and its pad compress, and they'll compress more if you load the cabinet heavily. The front of the cabinet will want to drop, while the rear is tied to the wall and can't drop. That will stress the cabinet and the wall. If you're going to do a big job like this, do it right and take out the carpet.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I'm gearing up to build some closet built in shelving and dresser. My question is:

Is it necessary to cut out the carpet?...

In a word - no. I have installed many dozens of closet systems and I NEVER cut out the carpet. Anchor the cabinets to the wall at the studs, and you will be fine. In most installations, I cut notches at the bottom, back of the cabinets to clear the base molding, instead of removing the base molding.

There are closet cabinets in my own home installed on top of carpet, and anchored to the wall studs. Those cabinets have been in place for over 13 years. Several of the cabinets include drawers. If a cabinet were to settle into the carpet, it would show up in the drawer alignment. I have not realigned the drawers in over 13 years.

The other side of the carpet cutting perspective is - what if you want to change the cabinet arrangement at some time in the future? If you cut out the carpet, you have forced yourself (or the homeowner) to redo the carpet in order to redo the cabinets.

[frank shic]

chris, i've built three built-ins as well as a full set of kitchen cabinets so far and the best piece of advice i can give you is to KEEP IT SIMPLE for yourself when it comes time to building the boxes. keep the widths similar if possible and consider building the boxes in two separate units (upper and lower) unless you need a full cabinet for hanging your wife's dresses - these monsters are HEAVY to lift as a single unit and a bear to cut and assemble because of their lengths. make sure you account for ceiling clearance (92" will clear a typical eight foot ceiling). don't forget to account for the scribe rails since you'll usually remember only after you've cut all of your plywood/melamine sheets into shorter lengths like i always do! keep in mind that the doors and drawer fronts will take MUCH LONGER than the rest of the cabinets.

[Rich Person]

This may not be an option for you, but in the one built-in that I made:

1) tore out the old carpet
2) I built the foundation or the built-in unit
3) had new carpet installed up to the foundation
4) finished the built-in.

But, in my case, the carpet really needed to be replaced anyway, so it was all part of the process.

[Nancy Laird]

I'm gearing up to build some closet built in shelving and dresser. My question is:

Is it necessary to cut out the carpet? Yes. You can't move the pieces into position on the carpet; take it out and drop in some hardwood flooring. I agree that the unit will compress into the carpet and pad and throw your unit out of alignment. Also the "replacing the carpet" issue will eventually come up, and you don't want the closet carpet and the new room carpet to clash or try to seam two different types of carpet together. Make sure you pull out the base moulding too, so you can butt those pieces against the wall without going through the mechanics of cutting notches to fit around.

I was thinking if I ancor into the studs on the back wall I wouldn't have to worry about things tipping. Right again.

Here is a mock-up of what I plan on putting in. Right now the whole closet is equipped with the standard wire junk.

You'll notice their is a piece of the wall that comes out from the rest. This is the framing around the stink pipe and radon pipe that exit the top of the house. I planned on putting a shoe closet between the two walls there.

closet.jpg

I plan on putting a rod above the dresser (thought I would put in a mirror here for the wife, but she said no). Also I plan on mounting a lower rod and upper rod on the end piece to double the space.

Of coarse I am open to suggestions if anyone has some cool improvements.

Thanks,

Chris

The way I'm seeing this unit is that is a narrow deep closet with the door at the narrow end. Is that right. If so, I suggest that you put the double hanging bars at the end on the right, with your single bar for long dresses, etc. on the end. Either that or, if YLOYL wishes, a full-length mirror for that end wall would be idea.

Keep us informed.

Nancy

[dan moran]

i would definately cut out the carpet/base moulding where you're going to put the shoe cabinet.. that isnt going to work anywhere else and its probably the best possible use of that space..

as for the other elements,judging by your drawing, it seems that youre only going to have ply/whatever youre using for sides touching the floor, leave the carpet there and under the dresser as well.. that is, unless you really think its gonna be a permanent thing, then cut out the carpet and get those tack strips/baseboards out of that area..

[Joe Unni]

Chris,

Here is how I've done closets and/or built-ins when there is a concern with removability.

For the verticals (hanging clothes or adjustable shelves)
- Install a top and bottom 3/4" x 3" horizontal ledger
- The top is where you would like the top shelf to sit and the bottom can be where ever you want your bottom shelf (if any) to sit. You don't need to go to the floor and if your floor is out of level you may have an issue.
- When you cut your verticals cut a notch in the top and bottom rear to match the ledgers.
- The distance between your notches should be the same distance as between your ledgers.
- Hang the verticals by pocket screwing them to the ledgers
- Place your top shelf on top and pocket screw from your vertical to the shelf
- You may want to cut your notches a bit less than the thickeness of your plywood to allow for any bow in your walls
- You may want to angle or curver the top corners of your verticals

For the dresser
- Don't remove the carpet
- Build your boxes without a toe kick
- Install adjustable plastic levelers to the bottoms of your boxes
- Set your boxes in place
- Level accordingly
- If you feel more comfortable screw them to the wall either through the backs or and optional nailer installed at assembly time
- Install a removable toe kick onto the plastic levelers

Adjust this as needed for your design and you will be fine.

I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you need any further clarification.

Good luck,
-joe

[Frederick Rowe]

OK, looks like we're split down the middle.

Technically, I think you are speaking about "set-in" rather than built-in. Perhaps just syntax, but with a set-in being mostly constructed when installed (except trim), removing carpet is optional as the set-in can be unscrewed from the wall at a later time to remove/replace the carpet. A built-in, is generally constructed in place, and carpet should be removed before this occurs.

So, as others have opined, I submit it boils down to how much trouble it will be to remove the piece to access the flooring should it be necessary. If it's just a couple of screws anchoring the piece to the wall to prevent tip overs, you can leave it. If you would have to remove trim and carcass components, remove the carpet first, get down to the flooring and work up.

[glenn bradley]

I mount everything to the wall and leave a gap underneath sufficient for vacuuming or storing shoes. No future problems if you want to change the carpet.

[Per Swenson]

My nickle,

Frederick has it right.

Built in, is forever. Remove the carpet.

Set in, leave it.

Per

[Paul Johnstone]

I guess I never consider anything permanent. I wouldn't remove the carpet.

If you ever decide to replace the carpet, it won't be that big of a deal to remove your closet cabinents and redo the carpet.

If you tear out the carpet and then move later, you won't be able to take it with you. Also, the buyer may not like the way you did the organizer.

I've built two large "set ins" on either side of my fireplace, and left the carpet in.. Two years later, and everything is still ok, although I'm sure the carpet has compressed.