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Thread: .007" runout - what would you do?

  1. #1
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    .007" runout - what would you do?

    Good evening everyone. I just measured the Delta hybrid I got and I have right around 7 thousandths of runout on a forrest WWII with a stabilizer. I thought that was a bit high, so I measured the runout on the hub behind the arbor, and I'm seeing between 0.0015" and 0.002". Somewhere I read that Delta's spec is 0.002", so I don't have any recourse.

    Given that, is 0.007" at the teeth (or just before them in terms of the radius) enough to cause any problems with quality of the cut?

    Is there anything else I should be doing?

    I'm going to have to adjust the trunnion because the back is closer to the miter slot by 0.02", so I'll remeasure the runout after that to see if it has changed.

    Any advice?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    The blade has a 0.007" wobble? It's likely dust unless you whacked the blade or the arbor flange..

  3. #3
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    yes - 0.007" wobble - which given that the flange is just under 0.002 seems about right. I suspect the blade is fine - it's a forrest WWII and it's hardly been used. I'll throw a freud combination blade on the saw just to check it, but based on the runout at the flange, I don't think it'll be a whole lot different.

  4. #4
    Try measuring the WWII without the stabiliser. If that doesn't improve it, just get on with cuting wood. This is not precision engineering, it's woodwork.

  5. #5
    With the crazy weather we have here the wood will move more than 0.007 from one day to the next!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    yes - 0.007" wobble - which given that the flange is just under 0.002 seems about right. I suspect the blade is fine - it's a forrest WWII and it's hardly been used. I'll throw a freud combination blade on the saw just to check it, but based on the runout at the flange, I don't think it'll be a whole lot different.
    If it is any consolation....when measuring the side of the blade like that (wobble) you have to cut total in half. .0035 in .....0035 out.
    Gary K.

  7. #7
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    Ummm.... How does it cut?

    Lee Valley used to sell a product that looked like a blade stiffener but had a number of set screws on the outer hub that you could use to "true up" a blade to 0.000x", but I cannot find it on their web site tonight. Perhaps you might want to look into a similar product.

    David.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Eisan View Post
    Ummm.... How does it cut?

    Lee Valley used to sell a product that looked like a blade stiffener but had a number of set screws on the outer hub that you could use to "true up" a blade to 0.000x", but I cannot find it on their web site tonight. Perhaps you might want to look into a similar product.

    David.
    I'd imagine it will cut fine - I'm waiting on a 50" Bies fence for it, it'll be a couple of weeks. I just wanted to see if anyone would think that would be a problem. If it does turn out to be (i doubt it will), I'll head to the LV site and see what I can find.

    I wanted to make sure that nobody was going to say something like that they had the same thing happen and it resulted in a less than glue-ready edge.

    Thanks for the heads up on the LV product.

  9. #9
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    Dave, for some reason if I over tighten the arbor nut on my Hybrid the blade wobbles a bit, maybe check that?

    Al
    Remember our vets, they need our help, just like they helped us.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Eisan View Post
    Ummm.... How does it cut?

    Lee Valley used to sell a product that looked like a blade stiffener but had a number of set screws on the outer hub that you could use to "true up" a blade to 0.000x", but I cannot find it on their web site tonight. Perhaps you might want to look into a similar product.

    David.
    Now ...that sounds real interesting Dave. If you find one, could you post it?

    Gary K.



  11. #11
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    Dave;
    Does your blade load easily? I found on my new Delta Hybrid that the arbor had some paint or something that made loading the blade difficult and also caused a wobble even after tightening the nut. So I took the blade off, turned on the saw and cleaned it all up with 600 wet dry paper. Now the blade goes on smoothly with no noticeable wobble - I have not put a dial gauge to it but I did make a fresh zero clearance insert and that looks just about perfect so there can't be too much run out - besides, the cut is perfect and that is what I was shooting for anyway.

    Ray
    Semper Fi

  12. #12
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    I think that they are discontinued, but maybe they still have a few around. I have one that I use from time to time. Got it because of a similar problem. It works, but would definitely be best for a dedicated blade. Too fussy to dial in for frequent changes...
    JR

  13. #13
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    Make sure the arbor's clean as others said. You may be able to get some of the runout out by rotating the blade's position on the arbor.

    Pete

  14. #14
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    Guys, “runout” is the out-of-roundenss: of the motor shaft. You can't measure for this from the side of a blade.

  15. #15
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    I use stiffeners on my hybrid. The 'inside' stiffener, of course, places the blade out more than it would be without. I have to be sure the blade seats well as there is a small deviation that I run into that I would not hit without the stiffener (is this making sense?). Anyway, if I forget, the blade will 'pop' on as I tighten it but, I try not to do that. Perhaps you are experiencing a deviation of what I am experiencing(?).
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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