Band Saw vs. Table Saw… heart of the shop.

[Paul Simmel]

I recently purchased a very nice 3hp cabinet saw… for panels mainly because I’m going to do a kitchen. I’m happy to have it, but not crazy about it.

This is my second shop… new house under construction now, shop 75% up.

My first shop was more or less dedicated to solid lumber furniture. Did not have a TS.

With a band saw, jointer and planer, there was little I could not do.

I will still rip all solid lumber on the BS, joint and plane. There may now be occasion to rip narrow stock on the TS for convenience. An example being, nipping off shaped edges for smaller trim moldings, etc.

All in all, all my dimensioning was always done, and will continue to be done, starting with the BS, then jointer then planning.

A jointed squared-up piece of stock is going to be more true than anything I can get from a TS. Stresses released after ripping (on either machine) will likely result in jointing anyway. BS ripping (just as straight but with saw marks) releases the same stress. Jointer trues the piece while removing saw marks. So we all cut our pieces a bit oversized anyway to compensate.

So-called glue edges from TS ripping/combo blades never did anything for me because in all likelihood after that rip the jointer will need to perform anyway… though I do have two Forrest blades… I have them for quality/longevity reasons... panels and such.

I have a cheap Jet 18”, 1.5 hp BS. Nothing to brag about. Though underpowered, I like the saw. With a 1” blade I can rip 1.5” stock as fast as I can lean into it with no fear whatsoever. I could care less about the smoothness of the cut.

Actually I could go on and on about the virtues of the BS, but in my shop it is the heart. The TS is a nice addition, and as I said I like it. It will help. But it is not the heart.

(I know there are, but I will ask anyway) Are there other BS-heart shops out there?

[John Schreiber]

I have been thinking that way myself. A bandsaw and a guided rail system could make a table saw unnecessary. The table saw does seem to be one of the most dangerous tools and making it safer by going with a SawStop or a slider brings the cost way up. By avoiding a table saw, I could spend more on a top notch bandsaw.

[Roy McQuay]

I read an article years ago, that British shops normally have a bandsaw as their most used tool. I don't know if that still applies today though. I have a Jet ts and the Jet 18" bs, but I use my scms more than either of them. I do use my ts for dadoes.

[Paul Simmel]

John,

But I am a true believer that the jointer is not a separate tool from the planer. The jointer and planer are truly one machine (in my mind). Panel glue ups may be okay with a TS application, but I still would joint the edges no matter how nice the edges looked, if the piece was bowed after sending it through a $100-plus blade!

Years ago before I invested in machinery, and thus learned how to use it, I used to purchase lumber from BORG like places, culling through for straight pieces. I can’t tell you how many projects… I just “pulled” the bowed pieces together with clamps resisting the stresses.

What a waste of time back then.

Rip your straight pieces for panel glue up with the BS, joint the edges and they are straight after ripping stresses, and you are all set.

The jointer is a marvelous machine. With a light, finger-feel, you take the bowed and or twisted stock, and straighten/square/edge.

For those who know what I saying here, and use the jointer for squaring and straightening as a priority (aside from just face leveling) I think the BS makes a good argument.

[Matt Lentzner]

Another reason to go with a bandsaw centric shop is to save space. The TS is the biggest space waster there is. I guess the counter to that is you lose that advantage by needing a jointer. But you'd need a jointer anyway if you were serious about making fine furniture. etc.

I haven't used a bandsaw since junior high school, but that's my plan. I already have a Bosch 4000 for those things you can only do on a TS and a SCMS. My first "big iron" machine will be a BS. Soon followed by a planer and jointer.

We'll see if it all pans out. I can always buy a "real" TS later.

Matt

[Paul Simmel]

>>> But you'd need a jointer anyway if you were serious about making fine furniture. etc.

A man after my heart! <smile>

Matt,

>>> bandsaw centric shop

Perfect use of the language.

[Lance Norris]

Paul... I have a 3HP Unisaw, and love it. That said, if I didnt have it, and had only my jointer, planer, and my 2 bandsaws, I would be able to get by nicely. I was trained by my father and later in high school on a table saw. I think most, if not all, here in the U.S. were trained that way also. I have a small shop and have wondered what it would be like without a table saw. Both of my bandsaws are 14", so rips of larger widths could be done with a circular saw and edge guides. This is how I break up large sheets anyhow, my shop is in my basement and I have narrow steps. I think without a table saw, I would be able to do anything I can now do, maybe just a little slower. I remember reading an article in Fine Woodworking or Popular Woodworking (I cant find it) about the authors 5 essential power tools. He started the article with a disclamer that he knew people would blast him for his opinion that a table saw wasn't on his list of 5. His list was the band saw, compound miter saw, jointer, router, and I forget the 5th.

[Lance Norris]

Roy Mcquay said "I do use my ts for dadoes."

Remember the router is also excellent for dadoes.

[Paul Simmel]

Lance,

I’m beginning to like my TS. It is a great addition to the shop. I <will> be using it for dados on the cabinet panels. And another thing I am very impressed with, is the quality of the cross cuts. I use a RAS for cross cutting at its own station, but the wiring isn’t there yet. Yesterday I needed to make a few cuts and used the TS.

I use my shaper for many “cuts” (rabbets and bevels, slots, etc.). But I can see potential advantages using the TS, especially on thicker stock.

It’s good to have… but again, it will not be used for ripping which is why, I think, many people own a TS.

[Andrew Williams]

My workbench is definitely the heart of my shop, but the TS gets used more than the BS.

[Loren Hedahl]

I've always wondered about the lifespan - cost factor of bandsaw blades vs circular saw blades. Does anyone here have an educated guess on that?

Loren

[Ed Blough]

Lance,

I’m beginning to like my TS. It is a great addition to the shop. I <will> be using it for dados on the cabinet panels. And another thing I am very impressed with, is the quality of the cross cuts. I use a RAS for cross cutting at its own station, but the wiring isn’t there yet. Yesterday I needed to make a few cuts and used the TS.

I use my shaper for many “cuts” (rabbets and bevels, slots, etc.). But I can see potential advantages using the TS, especially on thicker stock.

It’s good to have… but again, it will not be used for ripping which is why, I think, many people own a TS.

Paul
Let my ignorance be seen but why not use your TS for ripping? I would think it would be faster than a Bandsaw, if done properly it is safe.
Why use a bandsaw? the only advantage I can think of is a narrow kerf but I would think the speed gained would be a payback.

I have a bandsaw and I like it but I can produce much straighter cuts on the table saw. I still run them through the jointer but I usually only have to make one or two at most passes. If you cut on a bandsaw I would think you would have to cut wide of the line and then joint it a number of times. By then you would lose as much wood as cutting it on the TS and jointing it once.

[John Fry]

Hmmm!

I do a lot of shop sawn veneer work, so I have a dedicated 24" band saw with a power feeder for that purpose, I have a second 14" bandsaw for cutting around turns. I use my table saw everyday. To me, and the way I am accustomed to working, a finely tuned table saw with accurate sleds is probably my most valuable tool. For ripping,for accurate panel crosscutting, and for repeatable dadoes, I can't imagine being without it. Likewise, I can't imagine being without my band saws either.

Using alternate methods for almost any procedure (and there are many), I could probably get by without several of my tools, but I sure wouldn't want to.

[Art Mann]

I am glad you have worked out a system for ripping lumber to width that you are happy with. However, I don't think you will get many people to agree that a bandsaw is a very appropriate tool for ripping dimensioned lumber to a precise width. It may be a workable, if clumsy, substitute if that is all you have to work with.

[Paul Simmel]

Ed,

I can usually remove the saw marks in one pass on the jointer.

On my measly 1.5 hp BS, I can push the stock through very quickly with no fear.

Very little dust.

Outside the line… for me doesn’t matter because the stock is going to the planer after jointing anyway. I dimension my stock (edge to edge) on the planer.

Loren,

BS blades are cheap, and for ripping .75” > 1.5” stock you don’t need anything expensive.

-=-=-=-

This is not a “my way is better than your way” consideration. It is a “my way is what’s worked for me” consideration. There are plenty of BS concentric shops out there… plus, as a side note, there are a lot of BS mills out there too.

Art,

I am not ripping it to width. I am slicing up pieces to be prepared on the jointer and then to the planer... that is where it is dimensioned.