Benchtop Mortiser

[Ken Milhinch]

I'd be interested in any evidence that this is true.

Don't know that you will accept this as "evidence", but the fast spinning router bit, after it can no longer cut the fibres, has a tendency to lay the ends over and almost polish the wood surface. The glue depends on minute little depressions that occur naturally in wood to give it good adhesion, and this polishing effect can diminish that. The following search on Google will better explain how a glue actually works. "Glue Joint Failure". The first hit is a good one to read.

[Andrew Williams]

I can see some advantages to both. A mortising machine will make it much easier to to Arts and Crafts style with the slats. You can also do chair joinery more easily, since the angles offset eachother in a pair of legs.

[Don Bullock]

I can see some advantages to both. A mortising machine will make it much easier to to Arts and Crafts style with the slats.

That's exaxctly what I thought so I bought a Steel City mortiser. I haven't had a chance to use it yet.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=55997

[Jack Young]

I studied it all out, as best one can, and concluded that the Woodhaven horizontal mortising rig, which uses a router, is benchtop size and works like the large metal rigs on the european combination machines, was my best choice. It's nearly all phenolic resin, fits together beautifully, and works smoothly, mine with a PC 690 series motor. You might look at that one on the Woodhaven website. The Festool Domino is also very appealing, but I suspect can't do mortises larger than 10 millimeters, or so. Depends, as always, on what work one intends to do.

Jack

[Alan Tolchinsky]

And those very smooth walls can be a source of gluing failure.
I use a Delta with a riser, and it does all I want. I don't have to manufacture loose tenons either .
The OP asked what brand was recommended, and my vote goes to Delta, though I am sure others are just as good.

All I can say is making loose tenons is easy and I don't have to worry about making integral tenons. I put the tenon stock through my planer and get the exact thickness I want. I've done many M/T with integral tenons and find this much easier and the joints look better. If David Marks uses it , it's good enough for me.

As far as the "smooth wall" objection: I've tried to break practice examples and they just do not break at the glue line. There's always wood stuck to the loose tenon that's if I can get it to break at all.

BUT I THINK THE MAIN THING I LIKE ABOUT LOOSE TENONS IS THAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO PAINSTAKINGLY ADJUST THE TENON TO FIT THE MORTISE. AND THE SHOULDERS ARE ALWAYS PERFECT.

This shows there's always more than one way to do something and if you like your way then do it.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Don't know that you will accept this as "evidence", but the fast spinning router bit, after it can no longer cut the fibres, has a tendency to lay the ends over and almost polish the wood surface. The glue depends on minute little depressions that occur naturally in wood to give it good adhesion, and this polishing effect can diminish that. The following search on Google will better explain how a glue actually works. "Glue Joint Failure". The first hit is a good one to read.

Wouldn't a quick 5 sec. sanding take care of this if you wanted to? You couldn just put a rolled up piece of sand paper in the mortise and that'd be it.

Question: How come there aren't more glue joint failures when boards are jointed and then glued up for a panel? When you joint an edge it comes out pretty smooth doesn't it?

[Ken Milhinch]

Alan,

I didn't say every mortise created by a router would end in joint failure. I didn't even say that most of them would. I merely noted that one proponent of router M&T joints pointed to how smooth the walls of their mortises were, and I cautioned that this can result in joint failure. Perhaps I should have said "can contribute to joint failure". I suggest you read the information that I referred to on the Google search, as that clearly explains how glue and wood interact, and it then starts to make some sense. To your other point, sanded boards are never going to be as smooth as a mortise wall "polished" by a router bit after it stops cutting.

[David Dundas]

If cost is no problem, then the Festool Domino is a very strong contender; it is much more convenient to use and much more versatile than a bench mortiser. It has the big advantage that you are taking the tool to the work rather than vice versa; and it is essentially maintenance-free. Although of course you can buy Domino tenons ready-made, it is easy to make your own tenon stock in larger dimensions. You are not limited to the Domino's largest cutter size of 10 mm; you can easily adjust the fence height and make two passes. The only real limitations with the Domino are the maximum milling depth of 28 mm and the maximum fence height of 30 mm (meaning that you cannot mill a centered mortise in stock more than 60 mm thick).

David

[Steve Rowe]

Scott,
I sold my Delta benchtop several years ago when I upgraded to a slot mortiser. It was OK and for $249 with chisels, just OK is what I expected. I never had any problems with it and wouldn't hesitate recommending it if that was the budget. If cost is not an issue, I would recommend looking for a HCM with a screw or eccentric clamp and an X-Y table. These features will make your use of the machine much more enjoyable. If I were to be in the market today, the General would probably be at the top of my list.
Steve

[Gary Keedwell]

If cost is no problem, then the Festool Domino is a very strong contender; it is much more convenient to use and much more versatile than a bench mortiser. It has the big advantage that you are taking the tool to the work rather than vice versa; and it is essentially maintenance-free. Although of course you can buy Domino tenons ready-made, it is easy to make your own tenon stock in larger dimensions. You are not limited to the Domino's largest cutter size of 10 mm; you can easily adjust the fence height and make two passes. The only real limitations with the Domino are the maximum milling depth of 28 mm and the maximum fence height of 30 mm (meaning that you cannot mill a centered mortise in stock more than 60 mm thick).

David

Gee..I thought the original poster was asking for advice on a benchtop mortiser. Seems the infomercials never cease?
Gary K.

[Tim Malyszko]

Yesterday, I used my Delta 14-651 to cut 8 - 3/8" by 1.5" deep mortises in some poplar. Once again, I was satisfied with the end results, but wished it had a bigger motor. If I did it over, I would have purchased one with a min 3/4 HP motor. Even after honing the stock 3/8" chisel, the mortiser still occassionally bound up.

Despite the Delta being a little fussy, I still get good end results with it; however, if you can afford on with a bigger motor, I would go that direction.

Good luck in your search.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I have owned the General International mortiser for about 6 years now. Most of my work is Arts and Crafts in QSWO, and the mortiser works great. I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it.

Regards, Rod.

[David Dundas]

Gee..I thought the original poster was asking for advice on a benchtop mortiser. Seems the infomercials never cease?
Gary K.

Gary,

Although the original poster was asking for advice on a benchtop mortiser, several other posters (Alan, Pat, and Cliff) have suggested alternative suggestions to solve his problem - the best way to mill mortices, such as routing them with a jig, or using a slot mortiser. I merely proposed a third solution, the Domino.

I believe that you alleged previously that I was posting informercials and I assured you that I am a hobbyist with no commercial connections with Festool. I could easily call on other respected members of this Forum, such as Derek Cohen, to attest to this. So I request that you cease to suggest that I am posting infomercials when I am merely trying to provide helpful information on the basis of my personal experience as a Domino owner.

David Dundas

[Ken Milhinch]

Gee..I thought the original poster was asking for advice on a benchtop mortiser. Seems the infomercials never cease?
Gary K.

Gary,
I'm surprised it took this long for the 'D' word to make an appearance.

[Gary Keedwell]

David,

I call them as I see them......I'm sure I'm not the only one that "sees" them like that. I don't mean any anomoisity, everybody knows your enthusiasm for the domino. Even as a hobbyist, they still look like what I suggested.
Sorry
Gary K