Grizzly G1023SL series

[Steve Jensen]

As you guys know, I've been researching TS's and I'm coming down to the wire and getting trigger happy. I originally was looking at the Ridgid contractor saw but decided I really wanted a hybird or a cabinet. I've was looking at SawStops, but they are a bit rich for my budget. The Grizzly 1023SL series gets great reviews from everyone, and is in that sweet spot when it comes to my budget. Now for the questions.

Does anyone know what the extension table on the G1023SLX is made of? It only mentioned "heavy duty" in the catalog and online. I'm just curious as to whether or not that big ol' extension table is cast iron or something else.

I'm guessing that the router table add-on that comes with the G1023SLW can be used on the G1023SLX if purchased at a later date? I don't know if it requires the shorter rails or not.

Last, there's the G1023SL without any goodie but of course is the most affordable.

What would you guys do, go with the G1023SLX with longer rails and large extension table first and then the router table at a later date? Or go with the G1023SLW and then get the longer rails and extension table later? Thanks again guys, I'm getting closer

Decisions, decisions, decisions...

[Brian Walter]

I own the 1023SL and on many occassions wish I had gotten the longer rails. With that said, I think a good circular saw with a rail system would make the need for the longer table saw rails unnecessary.

I am getting ready to mount my router in the right extension wing, but I'm not going to use the Grizzly cast iron router table extension. One problem I have with the Grizzly router extension is that it doesn't have a miter gauge slot. Not that I would use that much, but sure enough, if I didn't have it, I'd need it.

Brian Walter

[Steve Jensen]

Thanks Brian, I didn't notice the router table didn't have the T-slot, but your right, it doesn't. That is definitely something to consider.

I downloaded the manual for the 1023SL series and I noticed that the plugs they recommend for 220 is different than the one in my garage. I have a 50 amp plug. Can anyone please tell me if this is going to be a problem?

[Cody Colston]

I've got the SLX. The right side extension table is 5/8" plywood with a laminate surface. It has a 3" apron around the perimeter and 5/8" x 2 1/2" support rails every 16" or so underneath. It's pretty sturdy and looks great with that light gray laminate on top. I painted the end apron black to match the fence rails and trim on the saw.

[SCOTT ANDREWS]

Steve,
I have the SLX and went thru the same decision's your going thru.I'm glad I went with the longer rails.I took my time setting up the saw when I got it.I did the 5 cut method on it and checked it with a Mitouyo digital micrometer and got .0015.The test board was 16" x 24".The extension table is of good quality as cody stated.I have my table legs attached to my mobile base.Once you set the extension table level and in plane with the saw table,if you move the saw all you need to do is stick a level on top of the table and level with the mobile base levelers.As far as the plug goes,you need a 20 amp plug and outlet.I used the reccomended 20 amp twist-lock plug.I got the plug and outlet at lowes for about $30.Make sure you use a 20 amp 2 pole breaker also.If your plug is a 50 amp,chances are that the breaker is too.I am extremely happy with my 1023SLX.Good Luck.
Scott

[Steve Jensen]

Scott, thanks for the info.

[Bill Eshelman]

I have the SL with the cast iron router extension. It is basically a cast plate with a hole in it and four adjustable "lips" underneath. I built my fence out on the router side with oak so I can "burry" the bit in the fence. I use a 3.5 hp Hitachi router and make adjustments under the table, but I can switch bits from above.

A friend of mine has the same saw, but he has the longer wood extention table. He cut a hole and mounted a lift system so he has alot more precision/repeatability. With my setup, I can use the slot closest to the router for most jigs/mitergauge tasks. On the longer wood table you can drop a slot in wherever you want.

Nice saw though.
Good luck and don't forget the gloat when you get her.

[Jeff Kerr]

I have the saw and bought it with the short rails at first. Since I have the space in my shop the long rails don't pose a problem for me. I went to the Grizz tent sale last summer and picked up a set of the long rails and also one of the ply/lam extension tables from a "scratch & dent" pile.

I ended up leaving the right cast extension wing on the saw and cut the wood extension table down to fit within the rails.

I agree that the wood extension table could be easy to add a router cutout to.

I also bought some heavy gauge plyable electric cable and made an extension cord for the 220 connection for the saw. I used twist lock plugs on the cord and on the wall outlet. This way I can use the same 220 plug for my saw, planer, & jointer without having to roll them around. I don't recall the gauge but it is appropriate for what I was doing and was cheaper to buy this and plugs as DIY instead of a pre-made 220 extension cord.

[Brian Walter]

Steve, ideally, you should swap out your 50 amp receptacle and assumed 50 amp breaker for a 20 amp combination. But if you also need to plug in a welder or something that draws a lot more current, it should be OK to keep the 50 amp setup. But if you do so, you will need to either put a 50 plug on the saw or make an adapter. I know I read in one of the woodworking mag's that you should match the circuit to the device to protect the motor, while that is probably good advice, it really isn't necessary. Just think of how many times you have run electric motors, hand drills, furnace motors, sanders, etc. on a 15 or 20 amp circuit and never worried about them drawing way less than 15 or 20 amps. The purpose of the circuit breaker is to protect the wiring in the wall, not the device attached to it.

Brian Walter

[glenn bradley]

doesn't have a miter gauge slot. Not that I would use that much, but sure enough, if I didn't have it, I'd need it.

You'd be surprised how often the miter slot comes in handy. I was. Feather boards, coping sled, miter gauge to support backer boards, etc.

[Don Morris]

Love my 1023SL. I don't have room for the long rails, wish I did. But did put the grey extension table on. But ran into some problems dropping a router lift into it as there are brads throughout the plywood and ran into them with my router bits cutting slots for tracks. Also, a small section of the grey laminate de-laminated around the hole I cut into the middle of the table top for the drop in router lift mechanism. Kudos to Grizzly as they sent me a new table, but I've yet to go through the whole process of reinforcing it, cutting new slots and ruinging router bits, etc. Even though I tried to put tape over the laminate when cutting it for the slots, it's so thin I got some tearout at the ends. I was going "whole hog and getting the 1023SL and the extension table at the same time. This was a replacement for a smaller shop built original router table. Next time I'll take the time and build my own again. But the 1023SL is a gem. FOR SALE...Cheap...one extension table for 1023SL still in original box.

[Steve Jensen]

Well, I decided on the G1023SLX and it's arriving UPS Freight on Friday. It looks like everyone is happy with the machine and searching the posts I see where several who got just the SL wished they had gotten the longer rails initially. Since I have the room, and I know I'll eventually be ripping large sheets of plywood, I decided to go that route. Also, in the cabinet TS review on http://www.woodmagazine.com it got best value.

I realize that I owe you guys 3 gloats when it arrives. One for my Delta woodworkers drill press, Grizzly lathe G0462 (when replacement headstock arrives) and the Grizzly G1023SLX TS. Oddly enough, being a computer professional I don't own a digital camera which is why I have posted any pics. I'll see what I can do to obtain one and get my gloats posted.

Thanks again to everyone for helping me get my new shop put together. Deciding on the table saw has been a long process and I'm glad it's over and finally on it's way.