PM2000 castor question

[terry hansen]

Got a PM2000 delivered and moved back to workshop (an event in itself), upon lowering/raising castor system I discovered the bushing that connects the 2 shafts (for the castor mechanism) together was sheared. PM sent a new one and has contacted a local warrenty provider to replace. He of course is a electric motor guy and is willing to do this but is looking at the problem the same way I am and wondering if there is an easier way. My question is - Has anybody out there replaced this bushing (#pm2000-287) and if so is there any way other than tipping the saw over to access/slide the lower shaft out of the way? Fortunately(?), I have not installed any accessories yet - haven't even turned it on.

[Chris Jenkins]

To the best of my knowledge this IS the EZ-est. Tip the saw on it's back take the few screws out the bottom casting that couples the casting to the sheetmetal cabinet and pull it forward. This will allow the gap needed to slip off the old and replace.

To do it without tipping the saw on its back it may be able to be done from the top, but it would require A LOT of work. From the bottom your saw won't need to be adjusted.

If you are carefull when you tip the saw you shouldn't knock your table out of alignement and should be just fine when you stand it back up.

[Glen Blanchard]

Could you use an engine hoist?

[Paul Sidbury]

Get a $150 shop crane from harbor freight and two of their heavy duty slings. Lift the tablesaw up from the table and put concrete blocks under the saw. Or jack stands (don't know if I would trust the hf ones) if you have them, I've seen those hold up buses.

I actually had a pm2000 for a few months. I got mine last November and like you my castors wouldn't work right off the crate but they were stuck down so the saw always rolled. So powermatic thought it was connector that engages the castor system, but I told them both shafts were moving. So the service guy came and we actually tilted it back, turns out it was the aluminum donut that holds the castors and is threaded was the problem. The donut screws onto the screw and thats how the castors go up and down. We'll if the castors are lowered too much the donut comes off the screw and when they are raised back up (really the tablesaw going down) the screw crashes into the threading ruining the threads. At first he thought it was one but a week later after parts get in he says it actually three. The problem was when you put one back on you have to make sure its level with the other three. So when you lower the castors they all go down at the same time and not have one down with the other three up because the same thing will happen again. The one will get extended out to far when trying to lower the other three and when retracted crush the threads so the saw can't be lowered again. And the service guy couldn't or didn't level them at my place. Long story short, PM customer service acts like I have a problem and it takes them 2 months before they take the saw back and I never get to use it once. After all the trouble and hearing the crap they were saying I was still pretty nice and cordial on the phone. But after the service said he fixed it but the castors weren't level I lost it and they finally acted like they should take care of the problem. They offered me a new saw but I was like f**k that and send it back for a full refund.

Funniest part of the story, PM customer service is setting everything up to have it shipped back to them. Its early January and my shop is about 85 miles northwest of NYC and it snows a lot up here. The saw is in the basement so we have to get it up about 5 stairs. On a side note, another funny thing is that we went to lower the castors and put it on a dolly and they wouldn't lower again so we wound up using the castors. I hired 2 movers who had a ramp and we got it up in about 5 mins. We put it in a uhaul trailer and I took it directly to the shippers so it never really got exposed to the weather for too long. The funny part is PM customer service (not tech support) wanted to have the freight company come pick it up at my place. I don't know how many of you have dealt with freight shipments but they can be late, real late. And sometimes they don't want to go into your driveway and sometimes they just can't get items on the truck. So I told the lady, I'll do whatever you want, I'll arrange a time with the freight company and put the saw on the driveway for them, but thats its I am no longer responsible for the saw. She started getting upset, I told how you gonna tell me to have the movers put the saw on the driveway when its snowing and then try and hold me responsible it. Then she asks can you build a shelter for it, I told her I could if I had a tablesaw. So finally she agreed to pay for the uhaul trailer (a big $20) and I said I would handle the gas.

Coolest part of the story is the company I got it from was cool as hell. Guy name Jake (I believe) from Toolking was really on my side throughout the situation. He actually paid for the movers and hooked me up with a coupon which I got a pc 7518 router with.

[Tim Wagner]

geeze Same problem with mine. well with mine I used a furniture dolly and tiped the saw on it's side, by myself, in like ten seconds. seriously. the shaft has to slide out the bottom and you will need snap ring pliers and allen keys. Don't loose the keyway that locks the gear to the shaft.

I do have pics. I can email them.

[terry hansen]

thanks for input - i would like to see pics as I hadn't thought about those items that the second shaft connects to. PM me and/or just send an email if you don't want to post - although since this apparently happens it might make a good reference for others.

[Tim Wagner]

sure, gotta resize um. is there a way to insert them into the post itself? instead of grouping them all at the bottom as just attachments?

[Tim Wagner]

Ok First after tipping the saw on it's side (with the motor cover faceing up) you need to remove the tensioning gear to provide some slack in the chain. DPP_0219.JPG
Next you have to remove the Castor which is held in by some more allen bolts.
make sure to use a good rule and measure the distance between the castor and the base itself. write it down. Behind that gear is a snap ring. you will need to take and slide that up the shaft and out of the way.
DPP_0222.JPG
next without removing the chain from the gear, slide the gear up far enough to remove the keway the locks the gear in place on the shaft. and slide the shaft down far enough to replace the bushing. you may need to tap it down with a hammer.
DPP_0217.JPG
DPP_0216.JPG
also you may find the new bushing a tight fit. and have to tap that back on again.
Just make sure you get the new one on all the way as you can see in my pic they didn't have it seated all the way on to the stud coming from the crank gear.

after all is said and done. just reassemble in revers order.

hope this helps.