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Thread: Creating a ceiling with low trusses?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Monroe, GA
    Posts
    25

    Creating a ceiling with low trusses?

    Hello Everyone-

    I am a long time lurker and I have a few questions. I purchased my first home almost a year ago along with a detached 22X22 workshop with bare studs inside. I've been picking up tools along the way and I am ready to get the workshop up and running. My plan is to add necessary electrical wiring, insulate and add a wallcovering.

    My problem is the "ceiling". The shop has trusses that are flat along the bottom, and just under 9ft from the floor. I don't want to install a ceiling at this level as it would be too low. I also want extra height to store a tall ladder or two and a few other things vertically.

    I want to insulate the roof but I have no idea what to cover it with or how I would accomplish this taking the trusses into account.

    Construction is not my thing so can anyone assist?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    781
    Build another building with 12 foot sidewalls, or possibly jack up the roof/truss assembly, demo the old walls, build taller walls and set the roof assembly back down on them.

    It can't be that difficult. I've seen entire houses and barns lifted this way to install new foundation systems.
    Kyle in K'zoo
    Screws are kinda like knots, if you can't use the right one, use lots of 'em.
    The greatest tragedy in life is the gruesome murder of a beautiful theory by a brutal gang of facts.

  3. #3
    With proper ventilation beneath the sheathing you can insulate between the trusses using a stiff wire that is wedged between the truss cords to hold the insulation in place. Very common solution and you can find everything you need at the local big box.

    Placing a ceiling below this might be more difficult. First, the amount of insulation you can place beneath the roof sheathing will be limited. Installing sheet rock beneath the top cord will limit it even more and not be easy. I would advise against attaching sheet rock "nailers" to the truss webs as this might interfere with the trusses ability to effectively transfer loads. If you have a plated truss manufacturer in your area you might be able to get some direction from them.

    Another consideration, your trusses will have been designed to hold the appropriate dead and live loads for your area, but are likely not to have been designed to handle the additional loads of storage on the bottom cords. I would not store anything heavy there, like extra lumber.

    Overall, plated trusses with bottom cords running level between your supporting walls were just not meant for innovative ceiling treatments or heavy 'attic' storage. That being said, sometimes you can do interesting things with them, within reason. FHB ran a story a couple of years ago where someone had opened up a ceiling over a kitchen and installed a couple of skylights, exposing the plated trusses. The trusses were sanded and painted where they ran between the skylights - looked nice.

    All in all, your options are limited. You might find that living with the 9' ceiling will be easier than some other choices. In fact, to all those who operate basement woodworking shops a ceiling that high would be a real blessing!

    Good luck!
    I have been black and blue in some spot, somewhere, almost all my life from too intimate contacts with my own furniture. - Frank Lloyd Wright

    I have been black and blue and bloody in some spot, somewhere, almost all my life from too intimate contacts while building my own furniture. - Rennie Heuer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    London, Ont., Canada
    Posts
    2,200
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle Kraft View Post
    Build another building with 12 foot sidewalls, or possibly jack up the roof/truss assembly, demo the old walls, build taller walls and set the roof assembly back down on them.

    This reminds me.... I have on my shelf the book "Workshops you can build" by David/Heanie Stiles (Firefly books, 2005). I think I picked it up from the Popular Woodworking book club, but I'm not sure.

    On page 100, he describes a method how a fellow took a 1 car garage shop, and raised the roof 4'.
    - brace the inside with diagonal supports
    - use a recip saw and cut the nails that hold the two top plates together
    - this leaves one 2x4 plat attached to the walls, and one attached to the roof
    - use hydraulic jacks and lift the roof. insert braces, lift the jacks, and repeat until you are at the desired height (they went 4' in the book)
    - once at the desired height, slip in a prepared 4' wall (or desired height) and nail it into position. Lower the roof onto the walls and secure.

    A bit labour intensive, but it saves you destroying/rebuilding the roof.

    But on the other hand, I would agree with Rennie. A 9' ceiling is plenty high. I'd be satisfied! Remember, you need to heat/cool all that space!

    ...art

    ps: Welcome to SMC!!!
    "It's Not About You."

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Carlyle IL
    Posts
    2,183
    Nine feet ceiling height isn't horrible.

    If you want to go to 12 feet, the best way in my opinion would be with a new foundation. Add an extra three feet to the sidewalls with a concrete foundation extending 3 feet above the finished floor.

    Why not just store your ladder horizontally?

    joe

  6. #6
    My shop is the three bay garage I built when I tore the old one down.
    My height limitations (like yours) came from the facts that I have an entrance to the building above onto the roof of the garage and it's got to have a flat roof and I wanted to pour a recreational deck on top.

    I maximized the head room by using a 19 KIPS steel I beam to span the' length and 2*10 rafters making the 20' span with the beam in the middle The 2*10s set on the lower shelf of the "I" beam.

    I haven't insulated the roof but if I do it'll be in between the rafters and that's it. I may use that foamed board because it's got a reflective face and won't bleed raw fiberglass all over the place.

    When you wire the place you gotta leave access to all your junction boxes.

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