Working w/ Russian Olive

[Vic Hubbard]

I've only seen Russian Olive used in turnings. This makes sense since it is hard to find a larger log. I've come accross a log from a tree someone had actually planted in their yard. I need to know if anyone knows the working properties of this species before I decide to slab it up.

[Justin James]

In my limited experiments, best drying results have come from a rapid process of 1) dropping the tree; 2) sawing into boards; 3) sealing the end grain. Ideally, this all takes place in a couple hours. If the tree has been down for a while, after sawing it into boards, saw back the ends past any checking, then seal.

For woods like this I prefer to use Titebond II as a sealer, rather than a wax or wax emulsion. I seem to have fewer problems with checking.

Air dry with stickers every 18-24", out of the wind and sun. Weight the top of the stack more heavily than usual.

From my notes, it seems to dry a lot like some of the fruitwoods.

[Vic Hubbard]

thanx Justin. Do you know if it works like most fruitwood as far as gluing and finish. I usually use equal parts tung oil, poly, and mineral spirits for a wipe on.

[Justin James]

Titebond II seems to work fine as a glue, so I expect any of the yellow glues would work.

The only Russian olive I've finished was a turning finished with pure tung oil, followed by Shellawax. I did spill some poly floor finish on a piece of scrap; it dried normally, so I don't think any oils in the wood will create problems. I think you'll be fine with the finish you describe.