Glued up panel workflow

[Joe Jensen]

I am getting more and more intrigued by those here using wide planers to level panels. I know that commercial shops just run straight line rip saws, edge glue, and then use wide belt sanders to level and get to final dimension. I titally understand how with enough capital equipment, and for high volumes this makes sense.

My workflow is time consuming, but gives great results. Here is what I do;
1) rough cut the parts needed for a panel.
2) Joint one side to get it flat
3) Plane to make board consistent thickness and then plane board to final thickness, attempt to remove the same amount from both sides.
4) Joint one edge
5) Rip to final width
6) trim one end square
7) cut to length

With this workflow, all the boards I use are flat and straight. I never have issues at glueup, and I don't need biscuits, dowels, dominos, or anything other than a straight edge to glue up. Time consuming, but precise.

To those of you who are using wide planers and sanders, do you get much chipout when planing? I'd think so since you can't orient every board to eliminate chipout.

If yes, getting chipout, are you then using a drum or widebelt sander to remove the chipout?

If yes, how do you control final panel thickness?

What is your workflow?....joe

[John Young]

When making glue-up panels I:
1. Cut rough lumber to length plus extra
2. Joint one face and one edge
3. Rip to width(s)
4. Joint ripped edge(s)
5. Glue up to 13" wide max
6. Clean up glue lines
7. Run through planer with flat jointed side on bed with 1/32" passes and then 1/64" passes to finish. If I get chipout in one direction, I make sure I turn the board around to minimize.
8. Cut panel to size

[Joe Jensen]

John, thanks for the reply. I have assumed that one would get some chipout in either direction given that the boards would be aligned randomly. Or, do you try to glue them up so that you can minimize tearout? What woods are you using? I recently added a Byrd head to my 12" Powermatic planer and the Byrd head would solve that problem, but they are expensive for 20" planers...joe

[John Young]

Have sharp blades and take light passes.

I usually try to orient the grain for best appearance as opposed to the grain direction. I don't typically have an issue with chipout once I get to the final board thickness. I start out with rough lumber at 1-1/8" thick. Once I get my good face clean without chipout, I will only take 1/64" passes. I don't always plane even amounts off of each side of the board.

Woods I typically use are maple, cherry, and walnut. The maple and cherry are typically more problematic with regards to chipout.