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Thread: Zinnser shellac vs. others

  1. #1

    Zinnser shellac vs. others

    I'm a novice, and have used both the Zinnser Amber and Clear shellac finishes with good results. I see though, there are many types of shellac flakes on the market touted as much more exotic and somehow more desirable than Zinnsers. Is this really the case?
    thanks,
    Matt

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    I'm sure happy with the SealCoat for what I use it for. I've also used a bit of the amber and orange(?) for some color at times, but I don't like doing that if I don't have to since I then have to coat with the SealCoat as I use mainly waterborne finishes.
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Matt,
    I don't know if it's exotic or not, but I use the flakes and mix it as needed. Shellac gets kind of funky with age, and you need to check the date on the can. If its a year old or so it may not work as well as a fresh batch. It's easy to mix your own to what ever cut you need, and then you know it will work just like the last time.
    We pulverize the flakes in an old blender then mix it and store it in a wine bottle (dark glass) with a rubber stopper.

  4. #4
    I use the SealCoat on nearly every project - as a sealer and base coat.

    For other shellac uses, my preference is de-waxed garnet, which I mix from flakes to about a two pound cut.

    I've used the clear and amber/orange Zinnzer in the past, but I generally cut it 50/50 with alcohol before using it. It pads on much nicer that way.

  5. #5
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    Zinnzer shellac vs. others

    I think the main advantage to the Zinnser products is that they are dewaxed and simply convenient. They also give you the ratios of alcohol that produce various cuts. The wax issue is relevant when it is used as a sealer under oil finishes, maybe waterborne, as well, because of adhesion problems. Zinnser is something that can be duplicated with flakes and alcohol, and it is purely a matter of choice. The convenience is its primary attraction, I think. I work at Woodcraft in VA and the stuff flies off the shelf, while the flakes take a bit longer to move.

    As for the colored stuff, I used buttonlac recently to tint the tongue-in-groove pine on a vaulted ceiling where I sanded and treated a few mildew colonies up in the apex. Whatever finish the pine boards had was minimal, but there was a patina gained over 30 or so years. The buttonlac, maybe the darkest of the shellacs, matched perfectly, as I found by accident, and you can't tell what was sanded and what was not. Not dramatic colors, but enough to make a very slight tonal difference, and, of course, seal the wood.

    Jack
    Why eat natural foods when most people die of natural causes?

  6. #6
    Thank you for all the replies - they help. It seems that the Zinnser's main strength is its convenience - which I definitely can vouch for. Open the can, dilute, and you're ready to go. With the flakes I've heard that you may have to wait a day or two for them to dissolve. I guess that as long as the finished appearance of Zinnser is not lacking compared with flakes I'll stay with it.

  7. #7
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    It is incorrect to say broadly that the Zinsser products are dewaxed. ONLY SEAL COAT (and the aerosol spray) is dewaxed. Zinsser Amber and Zinsser Clear both CONTAIN WAX.

    Neither Amber nor Clear should be used under polyurethane varnish or waterborne finishes. Adhesion are likely to be reduced, an effect that may not show up immediately. Under those finishes only Seal Coat, or dewaxed flake shellac are appropriate.

    Moreover, the Clear is not equivalent to "Super Blonde" in flakes. The Clear has been chemically bleached. The bleaching process has several ill effects. It shortens the shelf life, and it also reduces the water resistence and the heat resistence. The light colored flake shellacs have merely had the dye removed mechanically. Consequently, the flake shellacs will have a slight bit more color that Clear, but will perform better.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Mt. Pleasant, MI
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    I have sprayed a good bit of sealcoat and it performs well.

    I also keep a gallon of regular Zinseer shellac on hand for finishing drawers and things that don't need the USL's extra durability.

    Sealcoat I thin to 1 1/2# and the regular version I thin to 2#.

    There are some cool things you can get with flakes, like many different shades, but the gallons are handy. I have never had a can more than a couple months so shelf life isn't an issue for me.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    >> I think the main advantage to the Zinnser products is that they are dewaxed and simply convenient.

    Yes, the Zinnser shellacs are convenient but they are not ALL dewaxed. The ony dewaxed Zinnser shellacs are their SealCoat and the spray can shellac. The standard amber and clear are not dewaxed and should be avoided if the finisher is planning to use an oil based poly varnish or any waterborne finish.
    Howie.........

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Another option for pre-mixed shellac is Target's WB formulation. It is dewaxed and I have used it with good results. That said, I don't find that it imparts the warm tone that shellac from flakes mixed with DNA does (don't know why).

    As for flakes - I get mine exclusively from HomesteadFinishing.com and if crunched up into small enough pieces can be disolved in a matter of a few hours. You have to stir, shake or otherwise agitate it ocassionally or else it will clump up in the bottom. I have had flaked from other distributors sit undisolved for days.

    I use a one-gallon pickle jar with a wide mouth.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Actually, there are several sources of liquid shellac in the US. Liberon has some pre-mixed shellac--I have seen it at Woodcraft, I believe. And Homestead Finishing also sells some pre-mixed that is made in small batches and then refrigerated until sold.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Paldy View Post
    With the flakes I've heard that you may have to wait a day or two for them to dissolve. I guess that as long as the finished appearance of Zinnser is not lacking compared with flakes I'll stay with it.
    You can quickly dissolve shellac by placing container in hot water (not I did not say boil or expose to other heat sources). Simply put your DNA and shellac flakes in appropriate container, then submerge the container in a larger container with very hot water. As noted, pre-grinding or further reducing the flakes in a blender/coffee grinder/food processor with drastically reduce solvency time.

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