Tiling question

[Matt Meiser]

I've gotten started on a master bath remodel project and one of the tasks is to install some tile above the existing fiberglass shower stall. Right now, the fiberglass walls end at about my eye height (I'm 6') and water ends up splashing onto the paint above the shower causing it to peel for about 1' above the end of the fiberglass. I'm planning to install about 3-4 rows of 4" tiles (which we already bought last year) to stop this problem. I'm hoping to install them right over the existing drywall which isn't damaged. I was planning to just scrape/sand the peeling paint and apply the tile directly. Anyone see any problem with this? Due to the thickness of the tile/drywall/shower stall, the only other option would be to actually cut out the drywall to install a cement board backer so it is flush with the drywall above.

[jeremy levine]

I hope your idea works because I want to do the same thing. I think it should it seems almoest every kitchen (tile) backsplash is installed over plain old dry wall.

[Joe Pelonio]

I'm getting ready to do a complete bathroom remodel soon, with tile. It's actually a lot of fun as long as you don't do it every day.

Since most bathrooms used gloss paint I'd sand off the loose stuff then prime with an oil or shellac based primer.

As far as drywall vs cement board I wouldn't worry about it up there since it's only going to get an occasional splash.

Thickness is only aesthetics.

[Ben Grunow]

Make sure to use thinset and not the pre mix adhesive and you will be fine. If you use a natural stone remember to seal it.

[David G Baker]

Matt,
I did a similar thing over my kitchen sink. I used clear silicone as my adhesive. The reason I used it is because I had a lot of synthetic marble installed in a shower in California and code required the installer to use silicone as the adhesive due to the earthquake potential.
Silicone is reasonably water proof, has good adhesion, won't dry out, remains flexible and is easy to work with.
The only draw back that I can think of is that if you ever remove the tile or want to replace a tile after the silicone has cured, it is difficult to get anything to stick to the surface that has had silicone on it. New silicone won't stick to a dried silicone surface. When tile is removed the base material is generally in a bad condition any how.
I would rough the surface a little with sandpaper prior to setting the tiles and with the area you are going to tile being out of the direct water flow, I wouldn't worry about the base material being Sheetrock.

[James Stokes]

Should not be a problem any way you stick it. If you scrape of any loose paint stick it up with premix mastic and it will stick fine. You can use thinset but it will take longer for it to set up. Using mastic on sheetrock it will be set enough to grout in about 30 minutes.

[Ryan Myers]

I agree with James on using the mastic vs thinset. Thinset when used on walls allows the tiles to slide, because it takes so long for it to setup. I've never installed small ceramic tile on the wall, only 12" but I had a heck of a time with the tile sliding out of alignment even when using spacers.