Compressor Installation Question

[Larry Fox]

I would like to solicit some advice on installing piping for a compressor. I will be installing a 60-gallon upright compressor fairly soon and it’s primary use will be to drive a PP-based HVLP conversion setup. I know the compressor has the capacity to do what I need but I want to preserve as much of that capacity over the length of the run as possible. I really have almost 0 knowledge of how to set one of these things up - so, if I may trouble the group with some questions;

1) My basement is fairly damp and I was considering installing it down there to conserve room in the shop. Is there a way to pre-filter the input air to reduce moisture or is it not a good idea to put it down there at all?
2) If I do end up installing it in the shop, should I build a “closet” for it to reduce it’s noise and exposure to sawdust etc?
3) What type of piping should I use? I will be putting a filter at the far end of it but would like to reduce contamination coming from the pipe to the extent possible. Should I use metal? PVC? Diameter?
4) Is there any restriction on the length of the run?

If it helps, I am likely to go with this compressor.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/detail.asp?pcID=1&paID=1010&sonID=469&page=1&produ ctID=28825

11. 3 CFM @ 90 PSI. if the link gets edited out for whatever reason.

Any other considerations / issues that I am missing?

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Larry. I have the big brother of your compressor, the 5Hp IR. A couple thoughts:

1) Think real hard about putting in in/around the house. They are NOISY.
2) NEVER use PVC pipe for compressed air.
3) Install an automatic water drain in the bottom of the tank.
4) 3/4" tubing will maintain your pressure. Run your compressor at 100# and you will not run low on air pressure, IMO.
5) Run your distribution lines at full pressure, and regulate it down to 40-50 bls at sprayer hose connection. Let the regulator on the gun do the fine tuning.
6) Put condensation drops with valves on vertical runs of pipe.
7) Put air filter and regulator at/near the compressor.
7) The compressors are NOISY.
8) I would use copper tubing, but I hear that it is 'higher than a cat's back' these days.

[Larry Fox]

Hi Larry. I have the big brother of your compressor, the 5Hp IR. A couple thoughts:

1) Think real hard about putting in in/around the house. They are NOISY.
2) NEVER use PVC pipe for compressed air.
3) Install an automatic water drain in the bottom of the tank.
4) 3/4" tubing will maintain your pressure. Run your compressor at 100# and you will not run low on air pressure, IMO.
5) Run your distribution lines at full pressure, and regulate it down to 40-50 bls at sprayer hose connection. Let the regulator on the gun do the fine tuning.
6) Put condensation drops with valves on vertical runs of pipe.
7) Put air filter and regulator at/near the compressor.
7) The compressors are NOISY.
8) I would use copper tubing, but I hear that it is 'higher than a cat's back' these days.

Wow - thanks for the very thorough reply Ken - I really appreciate your time. When you say use copper, is there any special type or guage? Do you just solder it together like you do with water pipe?

Thanks in advance for your time . . .

L

[Jim C Bradley]

Hi Ken,
Though not addressed to me I do thank you for the information. My compressor is in the "outhouse" (that's what we call the shed that has the air comp and dust collector). I will be plumbing it in the next few weeks and your information was VERY helpful.

Enjoy,
Jim

[Bob Reeve]

I agree with Ken on all points except that you need to leave room between the compressor and the initial filter to allow for the air to cool off and the water to condensate so the filter will catch the water. If you mount the filter at the tank, most of the water will blow right past. I always reccomend copper pipe and leave at least 5-7' between the tanl and filter.

Bob

[Jim Becker]

Type L copper is the right choice for air lines. Type K can be used where flexible is required, but that is usually a rare thing. The thinner Type M is not recommended for this application.

[Brent Dowell]

When I installed mine, I got an inexspensive (cheep ) pipe threading kit, pipe vise, and big ole pipe cutter at HF.

Really wasn't all that hard to cut and thread the black pipe together.

Now that I'm moving, I'm just dismantling the black pipe and taking it with me and will reconfigure the system once I get the compressor to the new place.

That being said, copper would probably be easier to work I wouldn't rule out the black iron.

I followed pretty much the standard recommendations for setting things up as far as the angle of the pipe, drain drops, etc... Works good.

[Joe Chritz]

Like Jim said, type L copper. You can solder it together just like sweating a water pipe.

1/2 pipe is most likely plenty big enough. It will flow more air then the compressor can. 3/4" will give you tad more capacity. The more line the bigger "tank" you have.

Ken's advice is spot on. Instead of an auto drain, I changed mine to a street 90, short nipple and 1/4" ball valve. The valve handle is right at the base of the tank and easy to drain.

I have a water filter just before it runs into my lines. When the spray room gets moved to the new location I will have one where it exits the wall there also.

I just got a Porter cable 60 gallon. I imagine they are nearly the same unit.

Joe