Tool Gloat w/advise needed.

[Tim Wagner]

Just picked up a PC 890 Router at the BORG, along with my first bit. A PC 1/4 inch Roundover bit. I still need to buy a plung base.

My question is- Should I just Buy a Router Table. or should I attempt to build the NYW version. IN either case, what kind of lift do I want? a jessm Rout-R-lift? Any table-lift-fench package deals i should consider?

Let me know. I shall yeid to the overwhelming expertise that makes this site what it is.

P.S I also have the PM2000 with side table, can I modify what I have for a router?

[Mike Heidrick]

Ok where to start. First off congrats on the tools!

Big Leroy Tools (can find him on ebay) can get you a deal on the plunge base for the 890 most likely if you cannot find one here. Too be honest though the 890 plunge base is not very smooth so keep that in mind. You do want a plunge base for a router though - they are very very handy. May want a second fixed base as well to leave dedicated to a router plate if you go that route.

I like woodpecker plates and lifts myself. You can get a plate now for the 890 and use the above table adjustments and then when you are ready a lift latter on. the Alum plate woodpecker sells has a hole for the above table adjustment tool for the 890 already.

They sell tables and their scratch and dent items are very good value - especially if you align that with a free shipping deal they do occasionally. Get on their mailing list to be notified of the deals.

Watch the NYW router table video and he describes how to make a nice wouter table top. Apply those principles to a design for your saw. Usually the Bies instruction manual will tell you how you can design a table for your saw. Few good bits for this project are a flush trim bit and a spiral cutting bit, and a pattern cutting bit with top bearing. Order some whiteside bits from Brian at Holbren.com - his prices are very very good.

You can make a new extension table (vs buying one) very easily by gluing and screwing MDF together to the correct thickness (use a 1X frame if using a Bies clone fence), edge banding the table in oak (use a biscut cutter to attach a mitered oak frame around the MDF), laminating the top, and making the holes for mounting it to the saw and fence. Keep in mind the hole placement for the router plate (do not put screws there), and also be mindful of the legs of the table. Use a pattern of the router plate and cut out the hole and then rabet out a shoulder for the plate to sit on.

The norm table can be made and the thing I like about a seperate table is the fact that if you ever sell your saw you do not loose the router table as well. Again watch the video and check it out. You make a table and then the cabinet. I like the Incra fences!!! Design your table around that fence and its needed placement if you choose to go that route. Woodpecker sells a premade Norm table top I believe if you still do not want to make a table.

A lot of people like the benchdog cast iron add on table and woodpecker sells a lift that fits that as well. Very heavy duty.

If you do get a lift and you may eventually want a big router dedicated for the table. If you buy a PRL Woodpecker lift and the collets for your 890 it will serve your needs/wants today - then when you buy a PC 7518 router or a 5625 milwaukee router (to dedicate to the table) the same lift can be used with no problems for these big routers. Future proofs the lift investment. Again watch for sales.

[Brian Clevenger]

Whoa!!! You have a PM2k, and this is your first router and bit?

I'll respond later when I'm thinking more clearly.

In the meantime, I suggest reading as much of the following link as you can find useful.

Pat Warner:

http://www.patwarner.com/

The router is amongst the most versatile of tools; learn it well, and you'll start buying more routers.

[Art Mann]

There are other options besides buying a router table and building Norm's design. The NYW router table appears to be an excellent design that has been built by thousands of hobbiests, but it is not trivial to build and there are other much simpler plans all over the internet that will do a good job for you. Since you are new to woodworking, why not build one of these just to get you going?

[Jim Becker]

Personally, I'm most in favor of building a router table...it's a great project that you can use to not only enhance your shop, but also work with techniques, etc. that maybe you want to try. I also happen to like the NYW design with the caveat that I believe the main dust collection port should be 4". While it does have some challenges to build as Art details, that's a good thing...a learning experience.

[Brad Townsend]

Hi Tim,

I am one of the hundreds, maybe thousands, who have built the NYW router station and I am very happy with it.

Might want to hold off on that plunge base for the 890 however. There have been numerous complaints on it (mine included) and rumor has it that they have completely redesigned a new one for it that will be coming out shortly.

[Todd Solomon]

Pat Warner:

http://www.patwarner.com/

To add to what Brian said, Pat Warner also has some really nice router base plates. I've tuned up my routers with these base plates, which has really improved their performance.

I don't know if it's my bad luck, but every router I have except my Festool, came with very warped baseplates. This will cause your work to be uneven and low quality.

With my Bosch combo kit, both the bases on the fixed and plunge base were badly warped. My Porter Cable laminate trimmer had the same issue. I went back to the store, and we went through about 6 routers. All the same- 1/16" crowned convex.

So I bought Pat Warner bases for them, problem completely solved. And because the bases are clear, you can see your work much better. He also makes oversized bases for more stability, for edge routing.

Todd

[suzan odom]

I dont understand why people feel it necessary to brag about the fact that they purchased something from a retail store. Maybe if you found some valuable antique and years of searching, or made a block plane....but...handing over the mastercard to purchase a tool from Home Depot?

[Gary Keedwell]

I dint understand why people feel it necessary to brag about the fact that they purchased something from a retail store. Maybe if you found some valuable antique and years of searching, or made a block plane....but...handing over the master card to purchase a tool from Home Depot?

Well, When someone gets a new tool, some of us congratulate them and give advice or encouragement. Grant you there are some here who do tend to collect tools and brag about how many they have but mostly we are genuinely interested and happy for the individual.
Gary K.

[Todd Solomon]

I dont understand why people feel it necessary to brag about the fact that they purchased something from a retail store. Maybe if you found some valuable antique and years of searching, or made a block plane....but...handing over the mastercard to purchase a tool from Home Depot?

Gee Suzan,

That's an unexpected reaction. Why would it bother you if someone is excited about a new tool, and wants to share it with those whom might appreciate it? I'm always happy for my friends if they get a new tool, or new toy, or whatever. Why wouldn't I be?

Besides, he was also looking for a little advice. That's what this board is for, along with sharing a little excitement about the completion of a new project or a new tool acquisition.

Todd

[Mike Cutler]

Tim.

Congrat's on the PC 890. It's a fine router. it will tend to run a little on the warm side, at least mine does.

I would build my own router table, in fact I have. Mine is nothing special. It's a 4'x 2' top, on a heavy base structure,and weighs a ton. 4" dust pickup right at the bit, and it's dead flat. I had a router mounted in my tablesaw extension wing for a few years, but it really didn't fit my work flow. I move around quite a bit and having the TS monopolized by the router, and vise versa was a pain for me
If your intention is to mount the 890 in a router table, you may want to reconsider and keep the 890 fixed for edge work and get a bigger router to mount in the table. The 890 will most assuredly work in a table, but you'll eventually end up with a much bigger router table mounted, and probably a dedicated plunge router. Routers are sorta like rabbits, they seem to multiply. You'll end up with more of them,I promise.

Suzan.

The socially accepted "Norm" is to provide a "gloat" on a new, or used tool acquisition. Whether it be from a store, a flea market, found in the woods or from a garage sale. As long as the gloat is in good taste and fun, everyone gets to have a good time,and sometimes help a person avoid "buyer remorse" by validating that they did not waste their money, or time and that it was a worthwhile purchase that will reap didvidends in the future for the person.
People today come to woodworking from all sorts of avenues. I was classically, rote, trained throughout school, some folks are self taught, and some want to learn, but have no means of learning (No schools, or courses available). "Gloats" also serve to impart knowledge, or tips to the person to make their experience more satisfying, safe, and hopefully meet with a good result, or a good first learning experience. It's not a bad thing, just an accepted social custom.

A rehab'd/refurb'd machine or handtool is always a worthy gloat, especially if the process is written up so that someone else may try it themself oneday.

[Jim Becker]

I dont understand why people feel it necessary to brag about the fact that they purchased something from a retail store. Maybe if you found some valuable antique and years of searching, or made a block plane....but...handing over the mastercard to purchase a tool from Home Depot?

Well "Jay"...it's common convention for folks to introduce tools new to their arsenal to the community. You certainly don't need to participate if you are not comfortable with that.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

Well "Jay"...it's common convention for folks to introduce tools new to their arsenal to the community

LOL! Busted! High five to the mods..

Tim,
I bought a Ryobi router & table combination a couple of years back.
I've looked at a few of the better factory built ones in the meantime.
I've also since joined SMC.
What I've found is that it's better to build your own.
The "one size fit's all" theme of a pre-built table really limits the versatility.

Also - you're probably going to end up with several routers.

Expert observation (Pat Warner) is that a 2-1/4HP is too small for table use. Before going any further, I'd urge you to spend some time at his site reading up on routers.
I bought a Freud 1700 last winter with the idea of mounting it in a table.
The reason being the Freud has really good above table adjustments.
I've been rethinking that idea though due to the fact that I'm looking down the road at what I'm likely to be doing with the table.
Now I'm thinking I may just bite the bullet and get a 3HP and dedicate it to a table.

[Andy Fox]

My question is- Should I just Buy a Router Table. or should I attempt to build the NYW version. IN either case, what kind of lift do I want? a jessm Rout-R-lift? Any table-lift-fench package deals i should consider?

P.S I also have the PM2000 with side table, can I modify what I have for a router?

I built the older NYW table. The fence is Norm's design, but slightly higher and the top T track goes the full length. The clamping mechanism of the fence is the design found in the old Woodworking with the Router book. If you use a plate insert, I'd use an aluminum one. I used a phenolic Rousseau, but it has a slight and annoying crown purposely built-in.

If I had to do it again, I would have started simple (keeping in mind the time-tested KISS principle), and just built a bare MDF top with no plate and frame base like Pat Warner describes on his website.

My table is on casters and is about 1/16" shorter in height than my table saw, so it doubles as a very useful outfeed table.

[Tim Wagner]

Thanks for all the replies, I had some trouble with my emails, so thats why it took so long to get back.

I do like the NYW design. So I will probly buy the instructions.