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Thread: Just got the green light... but need some help!

  1. #1

    Question Just got the green light... but need some help!

    I got the go-ahead for my first bandsaw. It's a birthday present from SWMBO. I'm totally new to bandsaws so I have some questions. Please help! Any useful comments or info is appreciated.

    I'm looking at the Rikon 14" deluxe, (10-325) and I read the other threads talking about it and other saws. It looks good with 1.5 HP and a large cutting height for deep bowl blanks. I don't plan on cutting veneer because that's waaaaaay too flat for me! (never say never...) But it looks equipped to do moderate resawing too. The $750 is pretty much the ceiling for this purchase, but I have a little bit of wiggle room.

    Does anyone know of a reason not to get it for these purposes:
    1. cutting bowl blanks -- I assume that the 14" depth means that I can round blanks up to ~14" in diameter? Has anyone found that to be a limitation? I suppose for really big bowls I can still use the chainsaw to knock the corners off.
    2. Segmenting -- I don't have a table saw, but would like to do some segmented pens and bowls. Will a band saw do well for this? I can't get a table saw too (space and cost) so I'm hoping that the bandsaw will be the go-to saw for this type of cutting. Do you segmenters use a band saw, table saw, or both?
    Thanks in advance for the help everyone. This is a weak point in my shop and I really want to fill it right the first time.

  2. #2
    patrick
    I can't comment on the Rikon ..I have a jet 14" with 6" riser and I cant complain about it one bit ...with riser the total cost was around $650.00 4 yrs ago.
    The depth your refering to i believe is the distance from the blade to the back of the saw table ...the main concern most turners fight is height ...the thickness most can cut and most without a riser are about 51/2" w/riser on mine is 11 1/2 so thats something to look at also.
    As far as doing segment and angle cuts ..yes u can depending on the blade that is on it as to the smoothness of the cut...bandsaw blades flex alot so the angled cut may not be exact....I would opt for a chop saw like a delta or something for around $100 that doesnt take much space and can be stored when not in use....just a thought on that part
    BOb

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Taylor View Post
    I cutting bowl blanks -- I assume that the 14" depth means that I can round blanks up to ~14" in diameter? Has anyone found that to be a limitation? I suppose for really big bowls I can still use the chainsaw to knock the corners off.
    1. Segmenting -- I don't have a table saw, but would like to do some segmented pens and bowls. Will a band saw do well for this? I can't get a table saw too (space and cost) so I'm hoping that the bandsaw will be the go-to saw for this type of cutting. Do you segmenters use a band saw, table saw, or both?
    Thanks in advance for the help everyone. This is a weak point in my shop and I really want to fill it right the first time.
    Congrat's on the B-Day gift. 1st. You can cut any diameter you want as long as the waste side is no larger than 14 in. your blank is to the right of the blade.
    2nd.Don't know about segmenting but I cut all my pen blanks on my BS. I have a 1hp Jet and have no problem with 10 in. Maple. Good luck
    Sometimes we see what we expect to see, and not what we are looking at! Scott

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Patrick, the Steel City 14" looks like it would fit your needs: Here are some specs:

    BALL BEARING GUIDES, BLADE TENSION RELEASE LEVER, MAGNETIC WORK LIGHT AND 4" DUST COLLECTION PORT INCLUDED 14" CAST IRON WHEELS PROVIDE BIG MACHINE PERFORMANCE The STEEL CITY™ 50100 14" Deluxe Band Saw has the features for very convenient operation:

    1-1/2HP, 115/230V, 1PH TEFC motor w/mechanical on/off switch - 1,500/3,000 SFPM.
    13" blade to frame 6-1/4" under guide (12" with optional riser block).
    16" x 16" cast iron table with miter slot tilts 48° right and 10° left.
    93-1/2" standard blade length, 1/8" to 3/4" width.
    7-1/2" maximum rip right of blade; 11-3/4" left (using optional rip fence).
    Comes with mobile base integrated into the stand, wheel brush, wrenches and instructions.
    68"H x 38"W x 27"D.
    271 lbs. net weight; 291 lbs. shipping weight.
    Five year manufacturer's warranty. (Jet and Powermatic are the only other two manufacturers who give a 5-year--Delta's are one and two years, depending on the model.)
    Imported.

    It's currently $659.99, riser blocks $95.99, rip fence $99.99.

    Take a look at this one.

    Nancy
    Nancy Laird
    Owner - D&N Specialties, Rio Rancho, New Mexico
    Woodworker, turner, laser engraver; RETIRED!
    Lasers - ULS M-20 (20W) & M-360 (40W), Corel X4 and X3
    SMC is user supported. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/donate.php
    ___________________________
    It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice.

  5. #5
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    Wow that Steel City is nice. I have personally seen it in the stre here. It is one heck of a chunk of iron. The only other suggestion might be to look at a Grizzley. I have two friends with them and both swear by them. My other friend has a Delta and he just swears at it. CONGRATS and envy are headed in your direction from me
    Be a mentor, it's so much more fun throwing someone else into the vortex, than swirling it alone!

  6. #6
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    PAtrick, that is the saw I am looking to upgrade to. I don't think you would regret your purchase. A number of other people here have them and seem happy. Ben

  7. #7
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    Scott is quite right about the maximum diameter (unlimited, more or less) with the waste on the throat side of the blade. But, it's best to alternate cutting blanks inside and outside so that the blade curves in alternate directions for alternate blanks. If you always cut on the same side, the blade's set will become unsymmetrical due to wear, and you'll have a hard time cutting straight when you want to.

    Joe

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Location
    Boone County, Kentucky
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    Smile

    patrick--

    i have been bandsaw shopping lately, also. the rikon is a very nice unit, but a bit out of my budget.

    woodcraft will be offering 10% discounts sometime in july. not sure of the exact date.

    strange but true... i looked at the craftsman 14" saw a few nights ago. i took the rikon brochure with me because the two look surprisingly similar. the crafstman has an 8" height cutting limit, which is lower than the rikon, but the saw retails for $499. sale prices are in the $439-$469 range.

    if this saw is not made by rikon, they did a real good job of copying all of the details.

    the 14" cut refers to distance from the saw blade to the supporting frame member on the left side of the saw. theoretically, you could cut a 28" diameter round with this saw.

    the blade height will limit the size of the log that you can cut. i think the rikon deluxe 14" has a 10" or 11" max height. most 14" bandsaws have a standard 6" height of cut and offer a 6" riser block for taller cutting and resawing.

    i don't think the bandsaw will produce the clean, accurate cuts that are required for segmenting. a table or chop saw would be a better option.

    happy shopping.
    best regards,

    jeffrey fusaro

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Hi Patrick,

    Just my 2 cents worth..............

    For segmented work, I use:
    a table saw to rip boards to width,
    a miter saw to cut the segments,
    a 12" disc sander to fit the segments.

    I have a 14" Jet bandsaw and I guess you could rip the boards to width and cut the segments with it, but it would not be my first choice for sure. You might consider adding a small chop saw to your arsenal. Of course, you can build a really nice house with a handsaw, a hammer, and a bag of nails, it just would not be the easiest way to do it!

  10. #10
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    I have the Rikon 14 inch but I wish I would have bought the new 14" with a deeper cut so I could split bowl blanks from logs. The depth is essential if you want to split a log into blanks.
    What you listen to is your business....what you hear is ours.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Robert's method is the same as mine for creating segmented pieces. I use the BS to rip stock to the thickness I need for segmented rings when they need to be on the thinner side. It's also good for ripping stock for pen blanks when you don't want as much kerf loss as a TS.

    My first BS was the MiniMax MM16. I wanted a saw that I wouldn't have to make a dozen upgrades to optimize it's potential and one that had few limitations. Most people may never need 16" resaw capability or 5hp of power, but I do. I have a few 2" thick x up to 27" wide x 10' long walnut slabs I have ari drying for an upcoming Nakashima project when the wood is ready and I've gotten caught up on other projects.

    So consider what future work you see yourself doing and ask yourself if you BS will limit what you can do. I don't like to buy the same tool twice, I prefer one lifetime tool that will meet all my future needs.

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Patrick I have the Grizzly G0555X 14" extreme. It is $730 shipped with 6" riser which make it right at 12". 1 1/2 hp 110v/220v. I am extremely happy with it.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



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