European pens...

[Jonathon Spafford]

I had two questions on the European pens...

First, when I turned one, I used the long tube as the upper barrel (the barrel that you hold while writing) as the directions seemed to indicate. When I assembled the twist mechanism I had to push the mechanism in much farther than the stop line where it normally stops. Is this the way it is supposed to be with these Euorpean pens? or did I miss something? or was there a mistake in the instructions and the shorter barrel is supposed to be the upper barrel?

Second, when gluing the center band onto the lower barrel (I use CA) how do you keep the glue from seeping out and getting all over the barrel and messing up the finish?

[Montgomery Scott]

I have not made a Mont Blanc style in a few years and I bought the Berea kits so it sounds like yours is a little different, but if it works ok call it good and investigate the problem for the next kit.

As far as the glue, try putting a thin ring in the center band bore rather than on the tube so the squeeze out will be out the other end.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use a thin coat of epoxy instead of CA. I find I have better hold and better control. It wipes of easily. Dick Sing put me onto using epoxy. Yes I have made a few Euro's and had to push the twist mechanism rather deep I thought but they work good.

[Phillip H Smith]

I've done a lot of European pens lately....and I've tried several ways to glue in the tubes.

As for the long versus the short blanks: The longer one is the lower one -- the one that holds the pen refill. And, of course, the shorter one is the top -- where the clip goes.

As for the twist mechanism...most kits will have you press the mechanism till you have about 13/16" exposed. I mark mine to that length, then press in until almost there -- then insert the refill and test to see how far the tip extends (usually not much at that point). I then press in a bit more and test again -- and keep doing it this way until I get the proper amount of tip extension. It isn't an exact science as some kits vary even from the same supplier. With any longer blank, you're going to have to insert the twist mechanism farther to get proper tip extension. But you can't go too far or you'll either have the tip way too far out...or have not enough of the mechanism exposed for the top to grab onto.

As for glue: I've used epoxy...works well. I've used CA...works OK, but you've gotta be fast. And more recently, I've used Gorilla Glue. I like this a lot...but you must allow the glue to set overnight. Professional pen makers have expressed the opinion that glues like these are really good for pen making because it holds but not a tightly as epoxy or CA. This is good because it allow the wood to undergo some movement with moisture, etc. Epoxys and CA will hold so tight that wood movement results in cracking or splitting. After all...the purpose of the glue is to hold the wood to the tube long enough to turn the pen. After that, there's no real "work" for the glue to do. At least that's the theory! If you use Gorilla Glue (or equivalent other products) use about half of what you think you need. Remember it expands about 4X as it cures, so you don't want to be overwhelmed by the "foam out." (It's also a good idea to let GG treated blanks rest on some waxpaper...and not directly on your workbench. DAMHIKT!)

With all my glue-ups, I use an insertion tool to hold the tube, I sparingly spread the glue on the tubes (after a good sand paper "toothing"), then twist the tubes as they're inserted. With Gorilla Glue, I swab the inside of the blank with a moistened Q-tip prior to inserting the tube. Any excess glue that ends up on the blank gets wiped off with a paper towel. When I use CA, I use the gel-type slower setting glue...but you still gotta work fast. Plus...I usually wind up with the nasty CA glue on my fingers. I hate it when that happens!

[Dale Stagg]

The other post is correct. The long tube is used on part where pen refill goes into and short goes into part where clip is attached. I don't normally need to glue the center band as is a very tight fit normally. If I do cut a little loose, I put it together and put a dop of CA glue and let it soak in between the band and the wood on the end and wipe off any excess. I use epoxy for gluing the tubes into the wood.

[Jonathon Spafford]

I use a thin coat of epoxy instead of CA. I find I have better hold and better control. It wipes of easily. Dick Sing put me onto using epoxy. Yes I have made a few Euro's and had to push the twist mechanism rather deep I thought but they work good.

What kind of epoxy do you use? Most of the stuff that I've had experience with is thick and gloppy and doesn't come off stuff easily.

[Stan Cook]

To glue the cb onto the tenon, I do not put any glue onto the wood. Instead, I lightly coat the inside of the cb and push it onto the tenon. This way, glue will not squeeze out onto the finished barrel.

Btw, euro tubes can be used for slimlines also. This will result in a better balanced pen.

[Patrick Taylor]

Btw, euro tubes can be used for slimlines also. This will result in a better balanced pen.

Nice idea! I'll have to try it.

[Phillip H Smith]

Jonathan...

I've used several types of epoxy. I first started out using some mid-cure epoxy that I got from Penn State Industries....it takes a couple of hours to set. That product comes in two separate containers, you mix equal amounts together. I mix on a teflon plate or sometimes a throw-away card.

I've also recently used some 5-minute epoxy that I got from a local hardware store. It comes packaged in a double-barreled syringe. So it's easy to get an equal amount of the two components. You mix this stuff for 1 min....then spread sparingly (like any other glue) onto the tube. Then twist the tube into your pen blanks. I give this stuff about 15-30 min. to cure before turning.

I've used epoxy glue for many, many years in my work...it cleans up nicely with acetone. Most hardware stores carry acetone. You'll find that a quart will last a long, long time.

Caution: Acetone is highly flammable! Wear gloves to protect your skin. Use adequate ventilation to prevent breathing the vapors. Unlike mineral spirits, it evaporates quickly and leaves no unpleasant odor. But I say again...it's very, very flammable!

[Patrick Taylor]

Second, when gluing the center band onto the lower barrel (I use CA) how do you keep the glue from seeping out and getting all over the barrel and messing up the finish?

I put a very thin line of the thick CA on the tenon so there's not enough to squeeze out. Also, the looser your fit is, the less glue will squeeze out. Maybe that's why mine don't get messy!

[Jonathon Spafford]

I've used epoxy glue for many, many years in my work...it cleans up nicely with acetone. Most hardware stores carry acetone. You'll find that a quart will last a long, long time.

Will acetone take off a CA glue pen finish if it gets on there?