Juast checking I haven't got an outlet in my hand but I think the below pic shows polarity
DUPLEX 19061.jpg
IZZAT RIGHT~!??
I said ground but I meant neutral.
Juast checking I haven't got an outlet in my hand but I think the below pic shows polarity
DUPLEX 19061.jpg
IZZAT RIGHT~!??
I said ground but I meant neutral.
The picture is correct for polarity. Here is how I remember it: when the outlet is turned with the ground pin down (sort of a smiley face) the left blade is white or neutral.
I'm such a good good boy,
I just need a new toy.
Gold screw = Hot
Silver screw = Neutral
Green screw = Ground
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Yah I just didn't have one in my possession~!!
I just got two April Aire Dehumidifiers ( 90 pint and 150 pint capacity) and the BIG one has a 20 amp plug and I wanted to run it off a jerry rig while I am putting my electrical shopping list together. ERGO the question.
Which raises a question - - - - -
Should I use # 10 or #12 wire for the the thing??
The installation manual says it's a 14 amp unit that wants 120 VAC.
I'm a tad stumped at the Manufacturer's insistence that they both have their own dedicated circuit.
What's there to it: a Pump a blower and a RH sensor? This isn't sensitive electronics.
They do work and they work well I gotta give 'em that. However I suspect that they were poorly engineered because it's my opinion that high speed airflow is less likely to produce maximum water removal passing across cold coils than slower moving air and they move the air FAST~!!
In injection molding when you want more cooling of a water cooled mold core you don't step up water flow - - - you slow it down by closing the out bound valve just a tad. That raises the pressure and slows the flow rate of water inside the mold. This gives the water more time to effect a heat transfer.
Water is a phase change material and thusly the addition or extraction of energy is not linear at all.
I think they could have made the dehumidifiers more efficient by slowing the fan speed or better yet - by putting the fan on the input end (instead of the output end) and adding a choke on the output to attenuate the air flow and raise the air pressure where the air contacts the coils. .
Last edited by Cliff Rohrabacher; 06-27-2007 at 11:05 AM.
That's the way I remember it.
Rick.
Typically, you want #12 wire for a 20 amp circuit which you need if you are going to put a 20 amp outlet for the device.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Yah that's what I thought. However I had been running the thing on my jerry rigged extension for a while and when I went down there a little while ago I noticed that the gerry rigged extension cord I had run for it (made from #12 Romex) had got warm at the connection points so I bought some #10 to make the run. What the heck. Can't hurt and it's only money.
There is no harm in using #10, Cliff. It's not required and a little harder to terminate, but just fine to use.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...