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Thread: David marks favorite wood finish

  1. #1
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    David marks favorite wood finish

    Dave has this favorite concoction of tung oil and linseed oil? I also thought that he mixed a stain with it also but can't find any of the info on it.

    Does anyone know what the ingredients are? and in what ratio?

    I am building a sort of roller cabinet with three drawers. It is made from Birch Ply and trimmed in poplar i.e. Face frame. I got some pine to make the drawer boxes, and just get enough good wood, curly maple or something with a nice grain patter to make the drawer faces with. (suggestions welcome)

    Suggestions on how you would finish it also welcome.

    TIA Tim.

  2. #2
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    Tim.

    You have woods that are going to accept stains and finishes in a different manner. The close tight grain of the maple, will finish much different than the poplar, and the birch ply.

    I don't know what David uses, I'm sure it changes though based on wood and desired appearance.

    I've always been a big fan of natural finish. I would almost be tempted to go with Watco's Danish oil ( Neutral), or Tried and True. Test out what ever you decide on each different material to see how it looks.

  3. #3
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    You might check on the "DIY" network website. I believe you can get info on his projects there.
    What you listen to is your business....what you hear is ours.

  4. #4
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    I think it's just Arm-R-Seal or something like that...

  5. #5
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    On his web site he has a list of what he uses. I think his site is just his name.

  6. #6
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    He uses tung oil and if he needs more protection He uses Seal A Cell and Arm R Seal from General finishes. Pure Tung oil takes days to dry...I use Daly's Ben Matte from Seattle. Tried and True is good it is linseed oil and wax based
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  7. #7
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    I took a finishing class with David Marks and the exact product he used is General Finishes Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, followed by General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Oil & Urethane Topcoat.

    The way he explained it, the Woodworks show was not sponsered, so he could never actually mention the General Finishes name, so he called it a combination of "linseed oil, tung oil and polyurethane." The ironic part is that General Finishes no longer uses one of the oils in their product anymore - I cannot remember if it was the Tung Oil or Linseed oil.

    Anyway, I've used this combination with much success since the finishing class. The key it seems is to knock down each coat with 0000 Steel Wool before putting on the next one. In addition, using the gloss finish seems to work the best and then use your final finish for the last coat. If you want a semi-gloss or satin finish and use those finishes as you build up coats, the finish begins to get cloudy. Using gloss up until the last coat and then finishing it up with the semi-gloss or satin produces excellent results.

    Good luck.

  8. #8
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    I've noticed that in later seasons of Woodworks, David Marks stopped using the term "linseed oil, tung oil and polyurethane", and instead just started saying "tung oil". In fact, it seemed to become a bit of a running joke:

    "For the finish, I'm going to use -- what else -- tung oil!"
    "And for the finish for this project -- you guessed it -- tung oil!"

    Is he still referring to the General Finishes Arm-R-Seal at this point?

  9. #9
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    Here is the FAQ on David's site where he talks about his finish.

  10. #10
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    I've read that FAQ before, but it doesn't address what David means by his generic "tung oil" statement. In addition, the current formulation of Arm-R-Seal doesn't specify tung oil, or any other type of oil in its composition.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Wagner View Post
    Dave has this favorite concoction of tung oil and linseed oil? I also thought that he mixed a stain with it also but can't find any of the info on it.

    Does anyone know what the ingredients are? and in what ratio?

    I am building a sort of roller cabinet with three drawers. It is made from Birch Ply and trimmed in poplar i.e. Face frame. I got some pine to make the drawer boxes, and just get enough good wood, curly maple or something with a nice grain patter to make the drawer faces with. (suggestions welcome)

    Suggestions on how you would finish it also welcome.

    TIA Tim.
    Tim
    When I first heard Dave Marks talk about his blend of "tung" oil I wondered if it was the same blend that Sam Maloof uses on his projects. Its a blend of tung oil, linseed oil and Polyurethane varnish. I've used it on a few of my projects and I like it, its easy to use and dries over night (the can states 24 hrs. between coats) You can get it from Rockler
    Hope this helps

    I see your from Buzzard country I too am from that area about 60mi east

  12. #12
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    I'll look for it. thanks to all./

  13. #13
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    but it doesn't address what David means by his generic "tung oil" statement. In addition, the current formulation of Arm-R-Seal doesn't specify tung oil, or any other type of oil in its composition.
    Wilbur,

    Here is a quote from my post above. I took a finishing class with David Marks and we had the same question as you. Here was his explanation:

    The way he explained it, the Woodworks show was not sponsered, so he could never actually mention the General Finishes name, so he called it a combination of "linseed oil, tung oil and polyurethane." The ironic part is that General Finishes no longer uses one of the oils in their product anymore - I cannot remember if it was the Tung Oil or Linseed oil.
    In addition, when the show first started, General Finishes did use poly, tung oil and linseed oil; however, reformulated the stuff after either the 1st or 2nd season. David said he sort of felt bad about mis-leading people on his finish, but at the time, he was not aware they changed it up.

    I hope this answered your questions.

  14. #14
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    when i went to contact dave by email, a autofil feature in the email form comes up with this,

    NOTE: If you are wondering about the tung oil, linseed oil, and polyurethane mixture David uses, please read the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ), linked above and below, instead of writing. Details are available there. You can delete this text prior to sending.
    when i get to the FAQ it says this,

    What is the mix ratio for the Linseed Oil, Tung Oil, and Urethane? I have tried various methods of mixing linseed oil and tung oil in the past, but since the mid 80’s I’ve been using a product called Seal-A-Cell and Arm-R-Seal made by the General Finishes Company and available through mail order as well as from Woodcraft.

    Since doing the first six seasons of Woodworks, this finish has been improved and no longer has the make-up stated in the show. I use two products starting with a sealer and finishing with a top coat. Company representatives state the sealer (which is clear but also available in different colored stains) is a blend of modified linseed oil, oil modified urethane, and alkyd resin, and dryers. The topcoat I use is called Arm-R-Seal and is now an oil modified urethane with dryers. The Arm-R-Seal is available in gloss, semi gloss, and satin.

    A high quality finish starts with good surface preparation. This means thoroughly sanding the surface with 220 grit sandpaper or higher. I usually sand to 320 grit to bring out the clarity of the grain. Because of the time limitations of the show, we generally don’t demonstrate much sanding. After removing the dust (I use compressed air, if you don’t have compressed air, a vacuum cleaner and tack rags work well), I apply the first coat of sealer liberally to the surface allowing it to soak in for a few minutes and then use some soft rags and buff off all of the excess. This is important otherwise you will have resins that get sticky and leave an uneven surface. I let this coat dry overnight preferably at 70 degrees or warmer. A cold and damp environment can cause a finish to lack clarity and delay drying time.

    The next day I thoroughly buff the entire surface (including the backs and bottoms of furniture which I finish to balance the piece and maintain equilibrium with 4 OT (0000) steel wool. This is the finest grade and I find that it really smoothes the surface. After removing the steel wool dust, I apply the first coat of Arm-R-Seal gloss. As a rule I always build the finish with coats of gloss whether it is oil, lacquer, urethane, etc. Then, if I want a semi gloss or satin sheen, I’ll use that for the last 1 or 2 coats. Keep in mind that the Arm-R-Seal dries faster so I usually just work smaller areas up to 12 square inches and overlap the finish. Again, I brush it on, let it soak in for a minute and rub the surface dry with a clear cloth. Let it dry and repeat the process.

    I find that a total (including the sealer coat) of 4 or 5 coats usually creates a nice smooth finish that protects the wood while bringing out the beauty and depth of the grain patterns.
    so thats what i'll go with. thanks

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